Ive a ohlins 9.5 nm spring in the forks and 5w putoline oil the cartridges were fully flushef with solvents to remove the goo. its compliant but not spongy
The rear is still with a fairly low milage showa but with a variable wind hyperpro spring which also is a lot more compliant
I may look at fitting a cbr1000 rr resr shock as they have a wider adjustment range
But im not in a hurry
I weigh about 90 kg

 

Ive a ohlins 9.5 nm spring in the forks and 5w putoline oil the cartridges were fully flushef with solvents to remove the goo. its compliant but not spongy
The rear is still with a fairly low milage showa but with a variable wind hyperpro spring which also is a lot more compliant
I may look at fitting a cbr1000 rr resr shock as they have a wider adjustment range
But im not in a hurry
I weigh about 90 kg

I had hyperpro fork springs in my blade before I did a cbr929 fork conversion, I just couldn't get on with progressive springs, actually thinking about it, I also had the rear shock spring, but soon binned it and got a nitron, couldn't believe the difference.
You mite find though that your mite still be to heavy for an oem cbr1000rr shock, but it would still be better than oem standard though.

 

My bird has Nitron track and shock treatment Gold valves and springs. I can't remember what thay are that was in 2013 but was the best thing I done still loving the way it rides

 

Yer, I've also got the nitron on my cbr929 and cbr900, night and day for me, no going back lol.

 

bikerian, if you weigh 20 stone = 280 lbs then your 0.9 Kg/mm fork springs are most likely too soft. According to the race tech site you need 1.2 Kg/mm springs for your weight.
RT - Digital Product Search (racetech.com) . Make sure you have 1/3 travel static sag F&R. 4.5" x 1/3 = 1.5" roughly, Adjusted by the preload.

 

Yep your right, but to be honest I just wanted to set my bird up by feel this time, and try and not over spend.
I did all the set ups to my blades, and it got a bit expensive in the end as you can imagine lol, they were razor sharp, I used dave moss on you tube and got them dialed in, but I mostly only popping out the shop now, or for an hour blast.
I probably will go for the andreani fork internals kit in the end, and got the proper rate spring then, but for now am happy, it isn't race perfect but for me its transformed it from the way it was when I got her, and keeps the cost down too lol.
I think I got the front to about 34mm sag with me on, but with out the jaws preload adjusters it was 43mm, and wollowy.

The other thing I was finding was that there wasn't a lot of people commenting about there experiences with them, apart from one guy on youtube saying it felt like he was riding on the springs rather than with the springs, now whether or not it was because jaws uses extra long springs or or they weren't the right weight for him I don't know, and i was Experiencing that sort of feeling from them with out the addition of the preload adjusters.

So I just thought if anyone else was getting the same sort of feeling as I was with them then it mite help someone out, with out having to spend more money if they already had the jaws springs in
I did email jaws about heavier springs, but got no response. So for now shes ok for me.

 

Biggest thing would be to get your spring rates right first. Racetech has a spring rate calculator that will help you out.

 

If you like the JAWS spring conversion but want a different spring rate - look for VFR800vtec aftermarket springs.
They are 100mm longer than BB springs just like the JAWS conversion but are available in different rates.

 

Cool thanks for that info.
do you know how long the jaws springs are, i should have measured them while they were out my self doh.
just been on brookssuspension they do ktec and are 36mm outside diameter and 336mm long, so if there about the same length as the jaws already fitted, i mite got the 10s.

 

Well ktech it is then 10n/mm vfr800vtec, and to be honest the 10s should be fine with already having the jaws flat bar conversion, because my weight isn't as far forward, I know I put at the minute its 34mm at the front and feels great, but I have a sneaky suspicion I mite be nearly coil bound with the preload adjusters nearly all the way in. And if I have to emergency brake I dont want the front washing out if I have already compressed the fork spring nearly to the max already.
Thanks CBRDEANO.

 

Whatever spring you use, you will need the correct length spacer to obtain the 1.5" front sag. I used PVC pipe called 1" schedule 40 as a spacer (heavy wall 1" ID). Used it for many years (different heavier bike) with no issues. Easy to cut, I played around with the length until the preload adjusters were in the middle of their range.
If you don't like PVC, use it to get the length, then cut the metal spacer.
One more thing. Adding more fork oil will decrease the air gap, thereby increasing the effective spring rate, more so at the very bottom of the travel as the air compression is non linear.

 

Whatever spring you use, you will need the correct length spacer to obtain the 1.5" front sag. I used PVC pipe called 1" schedule 40 as a spacer (heavy wall 1" ID). Used it for many years (different heavier bike) with no issues. Easy to cut, I played around with the length until the preload adjusters were in the middle of their range.
If you don't like PVC, use it to get the length, then cut the metal spacer.
One more thing. Adding more fork oil will decrease the air gap, thereby increasing the effective spring rate, more so at the very bottom of the travel as the air compression is non linear.

Thanks for the heads up fizzy, my spacers were already cut 100 from po who also did the jaws springs swap before I bought her.
I think I saw on another thread, that you can use thin wall 34mm diameter tubing if you want to use metal for spacers, but pvc pipe would be a cheap idea if I want to play with lengths first.

 

Just to add, mite be useless information but, on my search i did spot that the ktech fork spring for an aprilia tuono 2004 to 2006 use fork springs that are 36mm outer 25.5mm inner and 260mm long, so if I made new spacers and cut them from 200mm oem length, down by 27mm to make up for the 27mm longer than oem spring length it mite also work out, I can get them from 10n/mm up to 12n/mm in .5 increments as well, hmmm, it is guess work though, so if anyone reads this thread, please do your own research lol.

 

Part of the reason for the 100mm longer springs used in the JAWS conversion is to prevent coil binding because you have more inter coil space with the longer springs.

 

Well springs on order and thought I would treat my self to the ktech fork level tool, so I will see in the next week or so.
Thanks guys for your input.

 

Just to update, the vfr800vtec springs 10s n/mm are spot on, I can use the preload adjusters properly now instead of them being wound all the way in.

 

My Bird1 is in need for a rear shock and I was all excited with the discussion about the Nitron (I was keen on the R2).
Until I checked the HPS website and had to reconsider! Coff... Coff.... I suspect I will have to handle wobbly turns for some more time!

 

yeah I know what you mean lol, but there the best for the money you can get I think, and there hight adjustable.
I was going to get the R1 base model, but the ease of the preload adjuster made it a must.
I have fitted them to my 2 blades before, and they have been faultless.
I wouldn't bother getting a cheap version, because you nearly always end up buying twice, which can be more than bitting the bullet with the initial price.
Each to there own though.

 

Guess I need to set aside another piggy bank for a Nitron

 

And a kidney lol.

 

Oh I don't know if jaws still does it, but I did read they used to do a rebuild of your old oem shock which mite be worth it, don't know the price though.

 

I might inquire although logistics would be a bit tricky (location). Something to consider.