Yahoo, yippee, I got it working! Found I have 2 three pin connectors that stop the speedo working, ala speed sensor. Just my luck I had plugged the Gipro into the wrong connector. Thank guys for all your help. Uglystick, do "we" have any Bird rides in Melbourne? Here's my GI in the black dash
Installing a gear indicator into a digital dash.
Okay guys here is the requested install of the GiPro gear X-Type display into the tacho face on the digital dash.
Disclaimer..
I take no absolutely no responsibility for any damage caused if you try this.. I had 2 tacho faces so if I stuffed it up (which I did the first time) then I still had the capability of going back to stock with no harm done.
Honda does not sell the tacho face separately so you can forget that as an option.. So just to make it clear if you stuff this up then you’re going to be searching parts dismantlers for a tacho..
Final word of caution here, if you put any marks or fingerprints on the tacho face they are bloody hard to remove so maybe if you have white cloth gloves it may not be a bad idea to wear them.
Okay. Why the GiPro X-Type.. and not the Acumen. 2 reasons…
1, The Acumen requires you to insert a pin in the back of the display to program it. The GiPro does not. So if you were to ever need to disconnect the battery the GiPro is a far better choice.
2, Size even if you only use the Acumen gear display the unit is a fair bit larger than the Gipro. Space is at a premium inside the dash. Ok before anyone asks. Yes the Acumen gear display will fit, and no the Acumen gear display with volt meter will not fit. (Thank you Shewie for the reference gauge and voltmeter that you kindly supplied to aid in the completion of this project)
---------------
So if your game or like me foolhardy... we will start with the standard dash removed from the bike
View attachment 20269
Our objective is to end up with a dash with the gear indicator in the tacho face..
View attachment 20270
Disassemble the dash down to the following image..
View attachment 20271
Open then packaging for the GiPro and take a good look at the product. If you remove the clear dome cover then you can see how the plastic cover allows the LCD to poke through (sorry no photo’s of a couple of steps here cause I was concentrating on not destroying things rather than recording this for prosperity.) One of the good things out the GiPro is the way they constructed it. They had a hard plastic case with a hole in it (just big enough for the display to fit) put all the components in, and then filled the case with resin.
Carefully break away the plastic casing and you will be left with a square block of resin that the display sits proud of. This reduces the size of the unit by about 4mm in height and width.
Because the display sits proud of the resin block that encases it, it allows you to have the display fit inside the hole you make in the tacho face rather than under it, which I thought a good thing for the finished product.
Ok if this has proven to be a little too daunting then STOP NOW. From here on things can get very messy very quickly..
This is the hardest part of this project. You need to determe where and what size hole you need to cut in the tacho face. The size can be determined my measuring the LCD of the GiPro... See there is reason I got you break the GiPro first.....
The actual size of the hole I required was 13mm x 17mm (but make sure you measure your own display to make sure.)
This is where things get a little heart in mouth! TAKE THIS NEXT STEP SLOWLY. Remember the old rule. Measure, Measure, Measure and Remeasure and cut once, You’re going to get no second chances. Well not quite true but that’s later.
Here is a temple that I made from the placement of my gear indicator.
View attachment 20278
I commenced cutting the hole by locating where the 4 corners of the hole are supposed to be and then drilling small holes at each corner, then working from the back of the tacho (in case you slip with the knife you don’t want to cut the visible side of the tacho face) with a very sharp knife
Make the hole small initially and work outward until the LCD display fits perfectly into the hole, the more care that you have taken will mean a better fit for the display unit.
You now need to secure your reduced size GiPro display into the hole that you made. I used Araldite 5 minute epoxy. You may use your own form of bonding agent as you see fit. Here I made a mistake and didn’t put a weight on top the display and it moved slightly (lifted on one side). So be sure to make sure yours doesn’t.
And we are back to taking pics again...
View attachment 20272
View attachment 20273
Now we need to get the tacho unit to fit back into the white plastic piece (the only thing that I can work out that it does is keep light in the right area’s) Cutting this isn’t as imports and you will see from my images that allot less care was taken since no one will see what you do to it anyway.
The only real problems here are the new gear display will not allow the tacho to be fitted because it impacts in the central ring the white plastic shroud. A bit of guess work and a Dremel with a cutting blades sorted this out in just a few minutes. You will also need to cut a notch into the outside of the shroud so that the wires can escape from the enclosed area.
View attachment 20274
View attachment 20275
View attachment 20276
You can now put the plastic shroud back onto the circuit board and reinstall the tacho. Only a few more little cuts and we are finished..
I took some time trying to work out how i was going to get my Gear Indicator wiring back out into the outside world I finally settled into removing one of the round sections on the rear casing, see next pic.
View attachment 20277
A bit of silicon sealant so water can’t get in and your ready to put that outer casings back together, reinstalling the dash and then following the rest of the instructions supplied with the gear indicator.
View attachment 20270
Okay.. so what if it’s not a neat as you hoped..
You can purchase an Indiglo tacho face from jaws and that gives you a chance to get the hole neater.. yes you can cut a hole into it as you can see i did.. I didn’t need to use the Indiglo but I did because i like the look of them. If you do choose to go with the indiglo then I suggest that during fitment that you take the time to alter the colour of your tacho needle.
Disclaimer..
I take no absolutely no responsibility for any damage caused if you try this.. I had 2 tacho faces so if I stuffed it up (which I did the first time) then I still had the capability of going back to stock with no harm done.
Honda does not sell the tacho face separately so you can forget that as an option.. So just to make it clear if you stuff this up then you’re going to be searching parts dismantlers for a tacho..
Final word of caution here, if you put any marks or fingerprints on the tacho face they are bloody hard to remove so maybe if you have white cloth gloves it may not be a bad idea to wear them.
Okay. Why the GiPro X-Type.. and not the Acumen. 2 reasons…
1, The Acumen requires you to insert a pin in the back of the display to program it. The GiPro does not. So if you were to ever need to disconnect the battery the GiPro is a far better choice.
2, Size even if you only use the Acumen gear display the unit is a fair bit larger than the Gipro. Space is at a premium inside the dash. Ok before anyone asks. Yes the Acumen gear display will fit, and no the Acumen gear display with volt meter will not fit. (Thank you Shewie for the reference gauge and voltmeter that you kindly supplied to aid in the completion of this project)
---------------
So if your game or like me foolhardy... we will start with the standard dash removed from the bike
View attachment 20269
Our objective is to end up with a dash with the gear indicator in the tacho face..
View attachment 20270
Disassemble the dash down to the following image..
View attachment 20271
Open then packaging for the GiPro and take a good look at the product. If you remove the clear dome cover then you can see how the plastic cover allows the LCD to poke through (sorry no photo’s of a couple of steps here cause I was concentrating on not destroying things rather than recording this for prosperity.) One of the good things out the GiPro is the way they constructed it. They had a hard plastic case with a hole in it (just big enough for the display to fit) put all the components in, and then filled the case with resin.
Carefully break away the plastic casing and you will be left with a square block of resin that the display sits proud of. This reduces the size of the unit by about 4mm in height and width.
Because the display sits proud of the resin block that encases it, it allows you to have the display fit inside the hole you make in the tacho face rather than under it, which I thought a good thing for the finished product.
Ok if this has proven to be a little too daunting then STOP NOW. From here on things can get very messy very quickly..
This is the hardest part of this project. You need to determe where and what size hole you need to cut in the tacho face. The size can be determined my measuring the LCD of the GiPro... See there is reason I got you break the GiPro first.....
The actual size of the hole I required was 13mm x 17mm (but make sure you measure your own display to make sure.)
This is where things get a little heart in mouth! TAKE THIS NEXT STEP SLOWLY. Remember the old rule. Measure, Measure, Measure and Remeasure and cut once, You’re going to get no second chances. Well not quite true but that’s later.
Here is a temple that I made from the placement of my gear indicator.
View attachment 20278
I commenced cutting the hole by locating where the 4 corners of the hole are supposed to be and then drilling small holes at each corner, then working from the back of the tacho (in case you slip with the knife you don’t want to cut the visible side of the tacho face) with a very sharp knife
Make the hole small initially and work outward until the LCD display fits perfectly into the hole, the more care that you have taken will mean a better fit for the display unit.
You now need to secure your reduced size GiPro display into the hole that you made. I used Araldite 5 minute epoxy. You may use your own form of bonding agent as you see fit. Here I made a mistake and didn’t put a weight on top the display and it moved slightly (lifted on one side). So be sure to make sure yours doesn’t.
And we are back to taking pics again...
View attachment 20272
View attachment 20273
Now we need to get the tacho unit to fit back into the white plastic piece (the only thing that I can work out that it does is keep light in the right area’s) Cutting this isn’t as imports and you will see from my images that allot less care was taken since no one will see what you do to it anyway.
The only real problems here are the new gear display will not allow the tacho to be fitted because it impacts in the central ring the white plastic shroud. A bit of guess work and a Dremel with a cutting blades sorted this out in just a few minutes. You will also need to cut a notch into the outside of the shroud so that the wires can escape from the enclosed area.
View attachment 20274
View attachment 20275
View attachment 20276
You can now put the plastic shroud back onto the circuit board and reinstall the tacho. Only a few more little cuts and we are finished..
I took some time trying to work out how i was going to get my Gear Indicator wiring back out into the outside world I finally settled into removing one of the round sections on the rear casing, see next pic.
View attachment 20277
A bit of silicon sealant so water can’t get in and your ready to put that outer casings back together, reinstalling the dash and then following the rest of the instructions supplied with the gear indicator.
View attachment 20270
Okay.. so what if it’s not a neat as you hoped..
You can purchase an Indiglo tacho face from jaws and that gives you a chance to get the hole neater.. yes you can cut a hole into it as you can see i did.. I didn’t need to use the Indiglo but I did because i like the look of them. If you do choose to go with the indiglo then I suggest that during fitment that you take the time to alter the colour of your tacho needle.
41 - 60 of 97 Posts
Wow thats a large display... which brand did you use..
Nice work though..
Nice work though..
How did you get the speedo to show 260 with no rpm showing? I like the look. But the wiring I see on the lower right side looks a bit of a rat's nest. I just placed my Acumen in a gold housing on the top left of the cf dash. It's very visible there for me. Good job.
Gipro same as you but I put the silicone cover back on the surface of the display.
Ahhh now makes sense
He took the pic seconds after the ignition was turned on, while the GiPro and the dash were going through their respective tests...How did you get the speedo to show 260 with no rpm showing?.
Nice job. I used orange nail polish on mine.
Im thinking of doing mine blue..
Do you have any of that color nail varnish in your cosmetic kit shewie?
Do you have any of that color nail varnish in your cosmetic kit shewie?
now where do I start with a comment like that ...............:rotfl:Nice job. I used orange nail polish on mine.
I don't know about you dandys but I am comfortable enough with my sexuality that I am not afraid to purchase a bottle of nail polish, although even I would balk at buying blue. :twofing:Im thinking of doing mine blue..
Do you have any of that color nail varnish in your cosmetic kit shewie?
We have large drug stores here with cosmetics departments the size of some hardware stores. A veritable wall of nail polishes in every conceivable colour awaits. It's really quite handy stuff - durable, fast drying and can be easily touched up.
Wow, IBENI, what's not to like about that set up?
I will have to do the same mods soon, gear indicator will be handy and it would not hurt to know where the revs are at, right now I'm just guessing.If somebody has a problem with the white needle and white background like me, this may help you.
Duck, given the material the tachometer face is made of (plastic, I assumed), can the initial hole be enlarged to fit with a flat file? IMO this would ensure a regular straight edge of the opening when I make it fit.Certainly not one for the faint hearted and most definately one to take your time over if you do decide for an 'in clock' install. Cutting the hole in the clock face I found to be far the most nail biting part of the install, I cut small to start with and then trimmed sliver by sliver with a very sharp modelling knife!
That said, I am very pleased with the outcome having bitten the bullet and gone for it!
Now I definitely want one. Even though I can manage without a GI, it would certainly be nice to have. Besides, it will give me something to do during the upcoming long winter evenings.
Have a few questions, please:
How does the Gipro function, i.e.: how does it know in what gear you're in?
Does it still work if, like myself, one shifts without using the clutch (I do it 95% of the time, both up and down)? How about if you miss a shift (I sometimes hit a "false neutral" between 1st and 2nd when I'm not careful)?
What does HISS mean (none of that on my 2001 FI Canadian BB)? Any relevance to Gipro installation?
Thanks,
The Fly, from München
Have a few questions, please:
How does the Gipro function, i.e.: how does it know in what gear you're in?
Does it still work if, like myself, one shifts without using the clutch (I do it 95% of the time, both up and down)? How about if you miss a shift (I sometimes hit a "false neutral" between 1st and 2nd when I'm not careful)?
What does HISS mean (none of that on my 2001 FI Canadian BB)? Any relevance to Gipro installation?
Thanks,
The Fly, from München
It recieves information from the ignition pulse generator and the speedo sensor and the determines gear by rpm and speed.How does the Gipro function, i.e.: how does it know in what gear you're in?
Yes, see previous answerDoes it still work if, like myself, one shifts without using the clutch (I do it 95% of the time, both up and down)? How about if you miss a shift (I sometimes hit a "false neutral" between 1st and 2nd when I'm not careful)?
HISS Honda Ignition Security System (i think) and no it has be relevance to the GiPro installWhat does HISS mean (none of that on my 2001 FI Canadian BB)? Any relevance to Gipro installation?
Yes the face is plastic and a hard one at that. Using a file will get you there but IMHO very slowly if you use a fine file and with a coarser file you risk the face flexing. I did finish the job in a couple of areas with a fine file (lots of plastic dust) but I found a fine and very sharp 'modellers knife' the best tool.Duck, given the material the tachometer face is made of (plastic, I assumed), can the initial hole be enlarged to fit with a flat file? IMO this would ensure a regular straight edge of the opening when I make it fit.
Either a flat file or the modelling knife would work well, I actually cut the initial hole with a dremmel and then did the same as duck and used an exacto modelling knife with a scalpel blade. Use whichever makes you feel comfortable but be carefull of handling the tach face too much. It marks very easily and finger prints are a real biatch to get off..Duck, given the material the tachometer face is made of (plastic, I assumed), can the initial hole be enlarged to fit with a flat file? IMO this would ensure a regular straight edge of the opening when I make it fit.
41 - 60 of 97 Posts
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