bikes wont quite be ready for that date but very very soon. phil stoll and stotz are both local guys round me....kents kid actually went 7.31 on kents 1k hes gonna be the next one to look for!!

 

Yeah, he reset the Byron record last weekend with a 7.37. Kent doing the tuning and teaching, he will be dangerous!!

 

i have an extra crank but shipping to scotland i think would cost a fortune

 

XX2wheelin if you do have a crank, I know peopl in Cincinatti who will be headin back over here soon and could bring it for me.
Any idea how much you'd need for the crank and the shipping?

 

A most interesting thread .................. especially since the motor is due to come out of 'The Duck' this winter for some work.

I aim to stay normally aspirated but going out to 1200cc.

A couple of questions to those that might have already gone this route.

Accepting that valves can be quite an early failure, when replacing them is there a decent advantage to be gained in increasing their size i.e going from 32 to 33 Inlet and 28 to 29 Exhaust?

I note that the V&M had carrillo rods fitted and GeeSaw's made 183.4RWhp
eliXXir says earlier that std rods should be good for 225HP. Knowing what damage a thrown rod can do I would like to have some margin of safety, so at what HP should I throw in the towel and bin the rods?

I have to say that my tuning experience is a little out of date, but I used to make a living out of building Ford Twin Cam 1598cc rally engines!

Good to see there is an active tuning membership here, in the UK (if they exist with a few notable exceptions) they don't seem to frequent the forums!

 

Hi duck , Would be happy to chat to you about the motor mods I have done if you want to give me a call , although a lot of the info is on project 1200 thread.
Cheers Graham

 

Just a note on the valve point , unless you are going for drag racing persentage of power gain verses cost, the gain is not wearth the cost, A good gas flowing and reshape and shaving of the guides will give good gain in mid and high rev range, with a good low end torque improvment
Cheers Graham

 

Just a note on the valve point , unless you are going for drag racing persentage of power gain verses cost, the gain is not wearth the cost, A good gas flowing and reshape and shaving of the guides will give good gain in mid and high rev range, with a good low end torque improvment
Cheers Graham

Mine has standard valves with VMR cams and polished and ported head, and I think this is the route of my troubles in that the stem seals couldn't take the lift and the thing was sookin oil on the overrun hence drinkin 2-3ltr during a high revvin lots of engine braking open pit day at knockhill

I am currently considering butchering the 1100 engine I'm using just now amd just changing over the barrels heads and pistons (with new stem seals obviously) and we'll see if the standard con rods can take it till I get the funds for the new rod

 

How bizarre, I was just answering your last post Graham and the system fell over when I posted due to you answering the points I was raising at exactly the same time ........ so many thanks! My gut feeling was that a valve size change was not the way to go ................. and since I did not want to experiment with metal cutting and the maths involved in calculating advantage is particularly nasty I didn't fancy that route
I have read your 1200 thread several times and can see exactly what you are doing and can see the reasons why - I like doing research.
I'm currently at the early stages of drawing up a spec sheet for the mods I'm planning to make, so weighing up the options is all part of that process.

Will give you a ring when I'm next passing, would really like to see your project (nice recent addition the tank!) ............ I did the design work with Dymag for a single sided carbon fibre swing arm some years ago, very enjoyable!

 

Hi Duck , Would be good to have a chat, because if you can see what I'm doing and can see the reasons why perhaps you could spend 5 minute and explain it to me because some days I feel like I'm jumping around in a mine field with a blindfold on with a big bulls eye painted on my back :lalala:

 

Strek,no Phil didn't come this year.Matt Dunigan did and won it all.I think I posted under the Racing header.

 

Partsguy... Oh well. Its kind of funny. My cousin lives about 2 miles from me but I don't see him that often. I'm kinda busy with kids and work and such.
I haven't seen his son, Phil, in a couple of years and haven't seen him race. His dad used to race and then he opened a speed shop. He speaks highly of Phil as one would expect from a proud papa. Have you ever met Phil or his dad Dan?

 

Having re-read this thread, there are several comments on the strength of the clutch basket.
Has anybody actually had one fail? I'm certain I found a billet version on the net sometime ago ..................... but can't find it now :banghead:

The engine mods for "The Duck" have got a bit more serious and 200+ is now on the cards

 

Hi Duck , Falcon in the US do one, but I've only heard of problems on drag bikes .
200+ ?? sounds cool
Perhaps a head to head could be on the cards :knockout:

 

Thanks Graham! I'm still aiming to drop by yours and we can compare notes :thumb:

 

I never felt the need to build my '97 BB to anything special, loved it the way it is.. But now my friend's car is pushing about 800hp, and I am having trouble accepting his car can beat my bike.. I'm looking for about 200hp, but I'd like to keep it as streetable as possible.. Smooth power delivery if possible.. I was thinking of a bore job, head work, valves, and such.. I'm not looking for a turbo, I'm trying to find a EFI BB for a high HP bird.. Any help would be nice.. I'll be riding it all summer, but I'm looking to get as much major engine work done this coming winter, but I wanna get the parts as soon as possible so I can tear into it as soon as winter hits, and get it done before the first warm day of spring..

 

I was thinking of a bore job, head work, valves, and such..

IMHO you would be struggling with 'conventional tuning' if you want 200bhp.
I have seen (in the UK) 187 but that was what could only be described as brutal delivery. An engine like this costs both arms and legs and needs regular fettling!

The 'regular' route is to 1195 bore, cam change and depending on upper rev limit (see several other threads on this subject!) valves, springs and retainers. This should give about 175 at the rear wheel.

IMO 200 = forced induction.

 

The 'regular' route is to 1195 bore, cam change and depending on upper rev limit (see several other threads on this subject!) valves, springs and retainers. This should give about 175 at the rear wheel.

I could handle 175.. Anyone making that kind of power on a NA carbed bike?

 

I come within a couple hundred rpm of redline every time my bike is used.Stock springs and retainers 150hp.

As what Duck said,yes conventional tuning gets 175-190,that also includes lots of $ on machining the head.
Turbos are the way to go,less dangerous than nitrous on the motor,however nitrous is cheaper.
Clutch baskets can be found at Falicon cranks Billet Clutch Baskets / Falicon Crankshaft Components, Inc.

M.R.E. and MTC may still have something,you'd have to contact them.

 

Cheapest way to get to 175 HP is to sell the bird and buy a 14 or busa...drop your 50kg (>100 lbs that's a lot of weight!!) and you'll certainly feel it!!

 

With the 03 bb how high can you safely set the rev limiter on a stock engine with 421 exhaust I have installed a dynojet pc3, lcd, and mutihub and am going to have it dynoed and would like to try to get the most out of the engine with out causing major stress too it and dont have the money to do a bunch of engine mods. I run with a lot of newer 1k bikes and had to change my gearing -1f,+1r to keep up with there light ass bikes ( I now kind of blast past them but lost top end speed so would like to up my rpm limiter while getting a good map done. does the silencer effect back pressure at all.

 

Looking at my dyno chart for an 03 with full akro system, free flow filter and PC111, peak power was at 10600 with a tail off after that (stopped at 11500)
So there is not much point in setting the rev limit higher if power is dropping @ 11000.
'Interestingly' the biggest restriction on the standard system is the down pipes .......... the cans aren't the problem .............. but they weigh a tonne and a half!

 

One thing I was thinking about doing is slash cuting the pipe on my 421 in line with the fairings then taking it off and drilling holes pipe back under in it in a about 6" to 10" section under where the oil pan is and wraping it in sound asorbing exhaust wrap and then a medal can around that sealed to the pipe so I get a slash cut and silencer at the same time but wasnt sure about the power changes versus full muffler system and straight pipe. As far as the power im also looking at peak speed because if I can hit 11700 rpm and not damage the motor I can still hit the stock gearing top in with the red line of 10800rpm stock in each gear. thats why i was kind of wondering what a stock motor can really handle if i ride it steady for a period at 11700 rpm.

 

With stock head and cams you will not make more power by going to higher RPMs. If you change the cam degreeing, you can see some gains but at the cost of losses elsewhere. Basically, the limiting factor for an NA motor in an XX is the head/cam combination.

 

With stock head and cams you will not make more power by going to higher RPMs. If you change the cam degreeing, you can see some gains but at the cost of losses elsewhere. Basically, the limiting factor for an NA motor in an XX is the head/cam combination.

i understand about the rpm vs hp how hp only goes upto a point and then starts to fall off and how all that works. my bike can push the rev limiter in 6th, what i was wondering is if i pushed the limiter to may be 11800 instead of what its at ( i think 11500 rpm what ever stock is for 03) would that destroy the motor if i ran it for maybe 30 sec at 11700rpm.