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Discussion Starter #1
.will a post '01 nock sensor work on 2000 model,that has later fuel pump ,fpr an pc3 fited,(for yrs)not th l8r injectors tho,engine an bore size same,early nok sensor unobtanium,dus later 1 not work or phisicaly not fit as looks identical. Im asking for my dad if anybody knows sorry if it doesnt make sense 馃ぃ
 

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They have different part numbers, so not the same. Part number 30530MATE01 EUR165 !!!! Check breakers yards for a used one. Also, maybe one from a car may work, they are plentiful and cheap. You will have to research specs. It is basically a microphone and generates its own signal. Remember, it is connected directly to the ECU, so using an incompatible sensor could damage it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello mate thankyou for replying i will let him know what you have said he might have somemore questions if thats okay. Thanks for your help :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Heaps93, are you chasing a fix for a Code 25 knock sensor fault?
Ultimately yes,gona do various other things 1st,loom fix,continuity tests etc,but my question is,if it is a faulty ks,why wont the l8r 1 work,given its same engine,has any1 fitted a l8r 1 an had issues?

It is th code 25,and i'm aware that sum(all?)av ended up changin ecu 2 solve the fuka,,ive got code 9 too,which is iat sensor..has any1 got a '99 to 01 ks thats a gud un 4 sale,in the vain hope it may fix it? Like hens teeth.yet l8r 1 easy 2 get an not 拢250!!!

Tell hin i still ave hope its not ecu,as i noticed its bin runnin rich 4 a while,an i think changing the fpr 2 later one has caused it,i think i should ave had it dynoed an ad th powa comander set up 4 th extra fuel,but didnt,

So..gona do loom fix,check all wirin,clean k an n filter an lean off th pc till i can dyno it,oil ok,level asnt risen an not petroly,change ks(if can get 1),replace iat, reset ecu an hope 4 best,i'm not th 1st tho!

thats all the texts he has sent mate. Thanks for replying :)
 

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I am not aware of anyone who fixed a code 25 with a new knock sensor.
It was usually either
1.ECU not strapped down (they do not like to be bouncing around).
2.Loom fix/bad wiring connectors
3.New ECU
4. If she runs ok, ignore it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am not aware of anyone who fixed a code 25 with a new knock sensor.
It was usually either
1.ECU not strapped down (they do not like to be bouncing around).
2.Loom fix/bad wiring connectors
3.New ECU
4. If she runs ok, ignore it.
Thats the problem,cud be ecu,av tested wires,ecu fastened tite,doin loom fix,c wer i go from ther..dont no bout ignorin it,if ecu dusnt react 2 signals from ks,then i wud imagine eventual engin damage may ocur,not 2 mention poor performance??
 

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I rode for quite a while with FI light always on, code 25. After doing the loom fix, light went out for 2 years, then returned. Solution for me ultimately was a new to me ECU. However, in my case at least, the FI light caused no running issues at all. Just the annoying FI light. See below for good solution to the annoying part. Thanks tanrush.


 

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However, in my case at least, the FI light caused no running issues at all.
(off topic) on my supercharged Bird the 'red light of doom' signifies full boost, stays on all the time. :)
 

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I had it come on in France a few years ago, shortly after refuelling with normal unleaded on top of my British super unleaded. It stayed on for the whole trip but returned to normal service after refuelling back in the UK.
So in this case fuel was the probable cause for the code 25 error ?
 

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I had it come on in France a few years ago, shortly after refuelling with normal unleaded on top of my British super unleaded. It stayed on for the whole trip but returned to normal service after refuelling back in the UK.
So in this case fuel was the probable cause for the code 25 error ?
Anything is possible with electronics,,,,, but how would the fuel trigger a knock sensor fault? if it was poor fuel, then the engine's performance would be poor. Potentially pinging/knocking which the knock sensor would have detected. Once detected, the knock sensor would have sent a signal to the ecu which would then retard the ignition to protect the engine i.e. stop the knock. If the fuel was that bad that the ecu couldn't stop the knock and tipped the knock sensor into "error", then i would have thought the bike would have been sounding and riding like crap. The key word in all of that is "thought" because I don't know :)
 
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