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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone! I'll confess that I've always just used OEM chains on all my motorbikes in the past, so have little to no knowledge of the aftermarket offerings. I've found this chain for sale at a cracking price (new and unopened), and wanted to confirm it's the correct one for the Bird, and what your thoughts are on it. Thanks in advance! :)

 

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EK is a good chain. 530 right size. How many links?

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I always replace sprockets as well. I chose ognibene silent sprockets and chain. Going ok so far. I think I received the link length for the 45 tooth that US got. Aust delivered have the 44 tooth. I noticed the wear marker was already 1/2 way or so by memory when I installed. So as it gets lower I will remove a link.
I think i got that right. US got the 45 tooth and we got the 44. Please, gurus, correct me if I'm wrong.
Was a dirty business. By the end of the day the bike sprocket area was clean and I was not. :geek:
 

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I always replace sprockets as well. I chose ognibene silent sprockets and chain. Going ok so far. I think I received the link length for the 45 tooth that US got. Aust delivered have the 44 tooth. I noticed the wear marker was already 1/2 way or so by memory when I installed. So as it gets lower I will remove a link.
I think i got that right. US got the 45 tooth and we got the 44. Please, gurus, correct me if I'm wrong.
Was a dirty business. By the end of the day the bike sprocket area was clean and I was not. :geek:
I had a US 45 tooth sprocket and at 13,000 miles it needed replacing. I went with the Ognibene silent Sprockets and a DID Gold chain. In the USA it is 110 link chain and after adjusting it it was almost right on the replacement mark. I contemplated on removing a link but didn't. Thought I would later when it stretched a bit. I put a chain oiler on and 20,000 miles later it hasn't needed any adjustment except after tire replacements. So someday I may have to...
I am also super happy with the sprockets. They still look new.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The seller is at work atm, but will get back to me later this evening when he gets home. Fingers crossed it has the right number of links! :)
 

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Its 114 links so you'll need to take out 4 of them. It's one of there strongest chains made. I run there 3D version.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just confirming how many links I'll need?? Being an Aussie and we're running the 17 tooth front sprocket, and a 44 tooth rear sprocket btw. ;)
 

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Factory says 110. I had same experience as PBZ ... maybe should have gone 109 for 44 rear sprocket. But stuck with 110 and its fine after 25000 km...

Plus i think it would need to be 108. I think it has to be an even number of links to match em up. And 2 less would be way too tight.
 

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Its 114 links so you'll need to take out 4 of them. It's one of there strongest chains made. I run there 3D version.
I was thinking that 114 at the end meant number of links but wasn't sure.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was thinking that 114 at the end meant number of links but wasn't sure.
I heard back from the seller this morning, and he reckons it's only 60 links...this doesn't sound right tbh. Like yourself, I was thinking the 114 at the end indicated the number of links. I suspect he's messed up counting, but might give this a miss just to be safe.

I've found the Ognibene kit with the DID chain that you mentioned on Ebay, so am going to order that from the UK. Thanks for your advice mate! :)
 

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Think about sprocket change as well. Always good to do both at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Think about sprocket change as well. Always good to do both at once.
Yep, will be getting the kit with Ognibene front and rear sprockets, and the DID chain. All good! :)

 

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Yep, will be getting the kit with Ognibene front and rear sprockets, and the DID chain. All good! :)


Looks good but that shipping cost is a killer ..!

You may find a good deal here in AU as well.
 

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Stuff the costs, so long as it's the correct product...I'm too old, too tired, too over being stuffed around. :p
I resemble that remark!

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The original chain on the BB is a DID and it is a top spec chain.

My original chain lasted to 100,000kms (no BS) and would have soldiered on for another 10-20k kms with just a few vibes to annoy me, but still working fine. I changed sprockets and chain at the same time... BUT... I made the mistake of buying a mid spec $250 EK/RK chain and undamped steel JT sprockets...... I should have bought the stock rubber dampened front sprocket (the plain JT rear was fine) and not penny pinched on the chain strength. It works ok, as I have done 30k kms since, so it will still be a while before I will be due for a new chain again. make sure you know what you are doing if you DIY the chain (AND SPROCKETS), as all chains come longer than you need and you must grind them down to shorten them and use a joiner link which must be 'cold' riveted to seal (but not crush the 'o' or 'x' rings). If you get it wrong that link may fail and crack your engine cases, or worse, bring you down. Sprockets need to be tightened and locktited etc too, so they never come loose.......

So, be sure you really need a new chain before buying anything. Grinder's will take your fingers off or damage your eyes if you are a novice mechanic ;). You will also need to buy a chain breaker to get the old chain apart once you have ground the link pins off...... nasty job and quite easy to damage the BB or the 'mechanic'. If you have done this before (y).

Test the slack at 6 or so points around the chain (looking for loose/tight spots) and then hold the chain tight at the slack checking point and try to lift a roller from the rear sprocket at the mid point (eg near the adjusters)...... if the roller won't lift, and you didn't find any loose spots when you were measuring the slack, then your chain is fine for many more kms. I've read of guys chainging chains more often, but they might have snow/ice grit on their roads whereas we don't have that problem in Aus. also a lot of marketing is focused on chain cleaners, which may attack the sealing 'o' or 'x'rings and also cause rust to form on the plates..... all bad news for longevity, but great for parts sales! (MX guys clean chains because they ride in mud.... but road riders in Aus need only spray some lube on to get the odd bit of dirt road dust to fling off).

If the chain on your BB has a nasty loose spot (stretched due worn pins) or has rust (which affects the 'o' rings ability to seal the grease inside the rollers), then fair enough, it's time for a new chain....... but sealed 'x' ring chains last much longer than old style chains...... no BS mine was 100k kms with only routine lube and I never ever cleaned the chain with any chemicals, except manually wiping down excess chain lube from the outside plates with a cloth rag (engine off).

I ride hard enough, but not stupid crazy hard, and I kept the chain slack on the slightly loose side of the specs.

That DID original chain would have been worth the $300 I was quoted back in 2014, but I penny pinched as I thought I was going to trade the BB in on something better, but bikes are not significantly better....sure, they have great electronic aids, but the BB still matches them for performance and range and rideability.

So if you really do need a new chain, buy the best and put new sprockets on at the same time....... but use a dampened front sprocket to reduce noise and vibration!

Find the chain spec by wiping clean a few links...... from memory I think it was a 530ZVL or something like that......

(y)
 
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