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What Should I Inspect on a 2003 BB (EFI) That Has Been Stored for Years?

So I found a seller and the bike has been stored and not ridden for years. Waiting to hear back from them on whether or not they did maintenance on it while it sat but I want to assume the worst. I've never bought a vehicle that has been stored for long periods of time so I don't know what I should look for.

-What are some things I should inspect?

Thanks
 

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FPR hopefully he did a stabilizer in the fuel system. Oil for fuel smell. Once you get it back up and running be wary seals will have dried up or shrunk. You may be replacing a water pump soon. they don't like setting idle. Depending on the fuel in it if it's got any ethanol in it your may be looking at injectors and pump as well. The stuff is very corrosive when left setting.
 
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If it was left in gear then stuck together clutch plates. If it was not on the centerstand then tires that will be bad. They won't look bad but will start to delaminate after some use. Brakes might stick. 2003 so fuel injection so gas most likely didn't evaporate out. Run cleaner through it for a while. Change all fluids (fork oil too) and tires. Battery most likely will be no good. Fork seals might (most likely) have dried out and cracked. Was it stored inside in a cool place or a hot place? Mouse free place or not. Mice like to build nests in mufflers, air intake boxes, behind fairings or under the tank and chew wires. If stored in hot place then look at all the rubber hoses and vacuum lines, drain off gas tank, vent line for the gas tank, etc.
Good luck.
Guy

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Expect it to be worse than you expected.
Oil will drain from the cylinder walls, condensation then causes rust , often enough to lower compression enough to not start.This will be better if stored in a temp controlled place.

It will depend a lot on what they did or didn't do.
 

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Expect it to be worse than you expected.
Oil will drain from the cylinder walls, condensation then causes rust , often enough to lower compression enough to not start.This will be better if stored in a temp controlled place.

It will depend a lot on what they did or didn't do.
On the above note I would recommend pulling plugs or disabling the fuel pump so that you can crank it over without firing it. Crank it in about 2 to 3 second bursts until the oil light goes out that way you won't be dry firing it.
 

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On the above note I would recommend pulling plugs or disabling the fuel pump so that you can crank it over without firing it. Crank it in about 2 to 3 second bursts until the oil light goes out that way you won't be dry firing it.
I have also squirted oil in the cylinders to try and get help some for compression and lubrication on the rings when an engine is new or sitting for a long, long time.

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone for the info and replies, I feel a lot better about going to look at it now.
 

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The fuel pump is easy to unplug. Of you need to know where I can go take a picture of the connector.

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I have also squirted oil in the cylinders to try and get help some for compression and lubrication on the rings when an engine is new or sitting for a long, long time.

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Second this
It's a bit of a pain because you have to lift the tank prop it back and pull the airbox. But if it's just sat and never been turned over that's the safest thing to do. Another advantage is that you know it won't hydro lock if the cylinders did get raw fuel dumped into them
 
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Add this to your list of checks. Make sure the rear brake releases as soon as you lift off the rear brake lever. With the Bike on the centre stand, Right hand on the foot lever, left hand on the back wheel, press down and try to rotate the wheel. Keep trying to rotate the wheel as you release the brake. You should be able to rotate the straight away. No slow release, no delay. If the rear brake does not release straight away, then you will have to spend time and money (amount can vary depending on how bad it is) to flush/clean the whole brake system. And you would do the clutch hydraulics at the same time.
 

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On the above note I would recommend pulling plugs or disabling the fuel pump so that you can crank it over without firing it. Crank it in about 2 to 3 second bursts until the oil light goes out that way you won't be dry firing it.
You are right, but after pulling plugs I would put about 1 teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and turn the motor over by hand a few times before I hit the starter button.
 

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Forget about riding it until you restore/refurbish it as advised above....... unless long term storage means only a year and included some starts and pumping the forks/brakes etc.

The brake fluid/clutch fluid will be fkd and there may be no air in the tyres if it was just left for 3-4 years in a container.

It should scrub up pretty good...... but don't start it until you pull the plugs and crc the bores etc (as above). Adjust the offer price to suit the neglect........ I haven't ridden my 05BB for 18 months due a hip injury, but I start it and run it up to fan cut in temps each month and pump the forks and top up the tyres, work the signal switches and lights etc...... but it will need new brake fluid and coolant soon if and when I recover from a hip operation and want to ride it again......... reminds me....... shine a torch into the tank and check for rust..... stale fuel gum etc.

;)

PS as mentioned before, the brake calipers will likely be in need of cleaning/lubing the slider pins etc and the wheel bearings probably should be checked and greased again. I'd also toss the tyres especially if you see any cracks in the casing - they will likely be over 5yrs old and probably not been kept at road pressures.
 
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