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Resident Eh?hole.
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Discussion Starter #81
The third hand is my daughter who spent part of the afternoon chatting with me so, naturally, she got put to work.

No frame pics, G. When I discovered that I had no upper bushings I started working on the other items on my list. Changed the wax unit, cleaned and reinstalled the K&N, changed oil & cleaned my fancy billet/SS mesh filter (overdue at 5800 kms) :), greased all the suspension pivots and bolted a few items back on. I'll take a pic when I get home.
 

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My owner's manual states new oil & filter every 19.2 kms. I usually do 6-7 or so. I have at least 5-6 on the oil now and yesterday it looked like honey, still. Anyone changing oil every 3,000 kms or so is just wasting money and filling the recycling bin. imho
 
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Welding. How hard can it be?
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Fair enough CB. As stated, I change mine at 5000kms/3000miles and do the filter every time. I ride fairly hard. I don't like the feel of the 'box when the oil gets a bit thin. I don't like revving the engine to redline when I know the oil is thin. Oil and filter work out to approx $2 a tank. A flat white cost about $4. Cheap enough for peace of mind. I also change tires at about 1/2 worn because I hate loosing the front when the profile wears and the tire has gone through a few too many heat cycles. Each to their own, my friend. Gazza.
 

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I wondered if the oil would draw attention :eyebrows:
The oil that came out was still in good condition (6500 miles) but I drop it into that old container that has seen many oil changes (car/van/bike) along with catching 'wash off' from chain cleans etc etc so it has a decent layer of 'residual sludge' that colours up dropped oil nicely.

...
I was hoping as much .... my car oil I expect to be like that or worse .... not the bikes :D
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Discussion Starter #85
The dealer had upper bushings in stock (!) (seriously. what are the odds?) so I got the tubes and sliders together. Then I disassembled them and reassembled them again with the seal washers installed. :rolleyes: Still have to get a measurement and cut the spacer tubes down (sweet 6061-T6 tubing, btw) as the Race Tech springs are longer than stock. Didn't happen tonight, it's pushing a gajillion degrees outside with about 185% humidity and I'm wiped from work. Now where's my bottle and blankie?
 

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Ghazzah, your bike looks fantastic! What wind screen ya got on that jewel and can you tell me the effect at 60mph and above:confused: Lovin the smoooth look. :love: This double bubble isnt workin.:hmm: Bike and snoqualmie pass 011.JPG

Changed oil tonight. 1st time since I got it, (200miles) not looking too bad. Short 1/2 qt though:bonk:Thought fer sure I had an extra qt. Need to flush the radiator next. Learning from you guys as I go. :nworthy2:
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Discussion Starter #88
Is that Canadian for 65F (an outbreak of a heat wave)

Which anywhere else besides Canada means its raining....
Shouldn't you be waxing your wheel bearings or something?
 

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Welding. How hard can it be?
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The third hand is the result of inbreeding.
Fixed that for yar, Cleetis.

Perry. I just use an aftermarket copy of the OEM screen in a super dark tint. It's good for 60 to 180. I'm only a 5'8" midget with stunted arms (inbreeding) so I'm virtually lying on the tank to reach the 'bars, even at the lights... Cool avatar BTW.

Bubbles, oohhhhhh, warm soapy bubbles, oohhhh, goood bubbles. Mmmmmmm. All I need to complete the picture is a stripper...
 

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Welding. How hard can it be?
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Shewie (aka Mr Donut)

Here are my fork internal settings (remember that we don't have donuts here in the South Pacific, so I am a moderate 80kg nekkid.

Springs: 288mm linear Eibach 0.9kg/mm (not sure of the OEM progressives' length)
Spacers: 163.5mm (OEM = 200mm). Tried 150s on the advice of the Ohlins Guy, but my static sag was too great. Longer spacers = less sag (Maybe you should try longer spacers around your moobs and belly...)
Oil: Ohlins #5 (23cST at 40 degrees. Not cheap, but worth every penny. Liquid Silk as it passes throug the valves, my man.
Compression Valve = Racetech Gold
Rebound Valve = OEM but modified by Kenth's technician for much more flow.
Air Gap: 154mm (OEM=150mm. I prefer a bit more of a solid feel under full compression (less air to compress)
Free Sag = 28mm (Ohlins suggest a range of 20-30mm)
Ride Height = 34mm (30-40mm)
Fork tubes 5mm up in the 'clamps.

FYI:
Rear Free Sag = 10mm (5-15mm)
Rear Ride Height = 32mm (25-35mm)
No shock spacer for Gaz. Tried a 6mm and hated it. Too nervous. Tried a 3mm. Nup. Bike turns fine with no spacer and +5mm in the 'tubes IMHO.

Slim.
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Discussion Starter #91
Shewie (aka Mr Donut)

Here are my fork internal settings (remember that we don't have donuts here in the South Pacific, so I am a moderate 80kg nekkid.

Springs: 288mm linear Eibach 0.9kg/mm (not sure of the OEM progressives' length)
Spacers: 163.5mm (OEM = 200mm). Tried 150s on the advice of the Ohlins Guy, but my static sag was too great. Longer spacers = less sag (Maybe you should try longer spacers around your moobs and belly...)
Oil: Ohlins #5 (23cST at 40 degrees. Not cheap, but worth every penny. Liquid Silk as it passes throug the valves, my man.
Compression Valve = Racetech Gold
Rebound Valve = OEM but modified by Kenth's technician for much more flow.
Air Gap: 154mm (OEM=150mm. I prefer a bit more of a solid feel under full compression (less air to compress)
Free Sag = 28mm (Ohlins suggest a range of 20-30mm)
Ride Height = 34mm (30-40mm)
Fork tubes 5mm up in the 'clamps.

FYI:
Rear Free Sag = 10mm (5-15mm)
Rear Ride Height = 32mm (25-35mm)
No shock spacer for Gaz. Tried a 6mm and hated it. Too nervous. Tried a 3mm. Nup. Bike turns fine with no spacer and +5mm in the 'tubes IMHO.

Slim.
I believe Race Tech uses Eibach springs. Could be wrong, happy to be proven so by someone who knows better.

Stock springs, by my measure, are 234mm and are alleged to be 0.9kg/mm while my new ones are 313mm and 1.2kg/mm. I'm thinking I will not need a bunch of preload with these stiff things. The instructions include directions for determining the spacer length. That is going to be tomorrow's job, previous engagement tonight.
 

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Welding. How hard can it be?
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By Jove, I think you are right! Horrors. Eibach are often the primary wholesale supplier to named brands.

I'd be interested to see the spacer calcs supplied. I used the tried and tested method of 'guessing'. A mere 1mm difference in spacer length makes a difference, believe it or not. I went from 150mm to 155mm to 160.5mm to 163.5mm and now have the ride height sitting smack in the middle of the Ohlins recommended range. and, yes, you can certainly feel the difference in ride/handling when you are near the extremities/outside this range. Horrid. We hates it, we does, My Preciousss.
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Calcs are pretty simple. I'll post them for your amusement when I get home.

*edit* Okay, so the spacer calcs: measure distance from top of spring/washer to top of fully extended fork. Measure distance from underside of top cap flange to bottom of cap plus the thickness of top washer and subtract the result from the first measurement. This is the zero preload spacer length. Race Tech specs 20mm of preload when using their recommended spring rate, with a minimum of 5mm and maximum 35mm. I have enough spacer material to cut at least 2 sets, and I can always cut down the originals in a pinch, combined with the extra washers included in the kit. I'll have a little experimenting to do tomorrow once everything is back together.
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Discussion Starter #95
Forks filled with oil (142mm), spacers cut (125mm) and everything reassembled. Changed the stem bearings to tapered ones. Forks back in, clip-ons on, front wheel back on and everything torqued up. Except the axle clamp bolts on the forks, can't do them until I can get the bike back off the centre stand which means I need my damn shock. Hopefully I will have that tomorrow or Friday.
 

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The Original Bird Watcher
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Did 370 km trip today. Brakes pads all round tmrw and a good clean up.
 

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Welding. How hard can it be?
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Did 370 km trip today. Brakes pads all round tmrw and a good clean up.
So (yes I'm gonna ask...) what brand of pads r u running, Bordo? ...and what tires do u run, at what pressure, what oil? Chortle. EBC-HH pads are simply the dogs bollocks IMHO. Gaz.
 

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New front wheel bearings and dust seals (all OEM), new rear wheel bearings and right dust seal (all OEM), new sprocket carrier bearing and left dust seal (all OEM), new sprockets (OEM), chain (DID ZVMX Gold).
 

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Gazz, are you starting a new tire, oil and brake pad thread?
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Discussion Starter #100
Got tired of fighting with stuff so did some mods. One: trimmed plastic around the upper shock clevis nut to allow a socket onto the nut as I may want to try different size shims shock-bolt.JPG then cut the side off a 4.5mm washer to allow it to fit against the clevis locating lip and installed it on the clevis shim.jpg then got ready to install these: fitting.jpg Here is where it went hose.jpg and I was more than a little nervous taking a pair of cutters to that expensive hose. All went well though, and I installed a fitting in both the pressure line and the return line. undertank.JPG Tank removal is now a 15 second undertaking and drama-free. I can't believe I waited so long to do this. The ease of removal means no more precariously balancing the tank atop a rubber mallet and waiting for it to drop on my body bits.

I know some of you are wondering about the fittings' ability to handle the pressure. So was I, so before I went ahead with the install I did a little research. I called Motion Pro and asked them what the pressure rating was on these things. They wouldn't tell me. Literally. Their company line is that the fittings are for carberetor supply lines and are not sold for fuel injection systems. When I asked again what pressure they were rated for, the rep actually stone-walled me. They are either involved in a lawsuit, were recently involved in a lawsuit, or are afraid of a future lawsuit, but whatever the case, they will not, under any circumstances, state a pressure rating. It was actually laughable and that's what I did. At the rep. He did not think it as funny as I did.
Luckily, the fittings are manufactured by Colder (they were kind enough to cast their web address into the fitting bodies) and a little digging around their website netted me an answer: they are rated for 100psi, more than enough for our bikes. They are double valved as well, so only a few drips of fuel escape when they are disconnected so the mess is minimal. I am very pleased.
 
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