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And they say they changed the seals hmmmm. You might want to try rolling the spring back up onto the seal lip.
 

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Have a friends BB in my shop and he has the dreaded broken lower fairing mount. So I figured I'd Post up my fix for this. It requires a piece of 1/8 in steel flat stock a drill and tap and a vice to bend it. The pics are of the place it was broken off from, the broken mount, the pan bolt I use, the bracket bent and threaded for the fairing bolt and the repaired mount.

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Well...I just got a new issue on my Bird :D

I'm reading all the "fast cold idle" related threads here to see what might be the case. Essentially, this is what I started noticing happening as of 2 days ago, as the situation happened;

  • bike cold (overnight in garage), started it up, all sounds normal, revs are normal (1200 or so) while I'm still parked
  • ride out of the garage and going thru traffic, occasional pulling in the clutch for traffic reasons, notice how the idle creeps up few hundred rpms higher on each pull
  • one minute into the ride, I get to the first stoplight, drop in neutral, the bike is idling now at around 2000 rpm and slowly creeps up by itself to let's say 3500 or sometihng (very embarrassing :D)
  • by the time I get to the next stoplight, half a minute later, the idle is normal 1200 or so

So...where do I start looking for issues?
 

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Aaaand so it begins AGAIN :D now I went to the gas station, saw there's no headlight when I saw the reflection of the bike, hi beam doesn't work, low beam doesn't work, indicators don't work. Pulled the headlight fuse, it's broken.

Great :D
 

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Aaaand so it begins AGAIN :D now I went to the gas station, saw there's no headlight when I saw the reflection of the bike, hi beam doesn't work, low beam doesn't work, indicators don't work. Pulled the headlight fuse, it's broken.

Great :D
What do you mean, begins again?
Anyway, blown fuse may mean overvoltage, or above 15V. This can happen if your R/R is failing. Best practice is to mount a small voltmeter on the dash to monitor volts. As R/R fails, it typically gives off voltage spikes to 15V and above, blowing fuses and worse.
 

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I'd say it's time to visit cleaning the wax unit and linkage.then applying some small amount moly grease with a cotton swab.
 

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I'll see what's the deal with the idle - BUT - I did went to check the bike electrics since I did had to sort it out over the summer and it was my first diving into electronics in general...

The additional 12V circuit I've put on the bike is ok, wires all ok. Two fuses were blown - headlight and turn signal, first and second fuse looking "from the top" of the fusebox. Replaced the fuses, everything is in order EXCEPT both of the headlights.

I'm thinking this is probably something about the right handlebar control switch...
 

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I'm thinking this is probably something about the right handlebar control switch...
Very likely. Go in with a towel under it. There are small springs and ball bearings that work as the detents. The towel helps catch them if the get away from you. Everything is packed in there very tightly. So look for broken wires as well.
 

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I've had similar problems in the past with windshields, to the point that I've given up on them. Stock shields that are parts of fairings, or maybe slightly taller ones are fine. I used to own a Valkyrie with one those huge tombstone shields, and the buffeting was brutal. That FJR we were talking about earlier? Screen only works for me in the lowest position.
Interesting about the 5th gen VFR. I actually think it's very similar to the bird in many ways: both broadly competent at everything on road, similar weights (bird is 50 lb more), and both have that solid feeling that old Hondas have. For my commute (mixture of city streets and highways), it's a toss up. VFR is a little more fun in Twisties (not because I'm actually faster on it, but because I can rev it out some more without reaching insane speeds), and the bird is better if I need to spend anything over an hour on the highway. For me, the VFR is my never-sell bike, but the I am finding I love the blackbird every bit as much.
Lower your gears and it revs out at sane speeds... and has a lot more punch coming out of the corners!!!

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With evening fading light, rear safety, and streamlining the rear license plate hanging down, I added more LEDs in back replacing the smoke aftermarket unit.
This also created some more cubic inches of space inside which is always good.
Up front adding some adjustable brighties in the vents with some new adjusted ventilation in mind if needed. I have better enhanced lighting for twisties in mind when getting in late at end of a long day when ya run out of light.
So how does your bird breath now that you put those in the nostrils? Or am I just missing something?

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Left it for later - I was focusing on getting the wiring sorted with the stupid addons I'm adding to the bike.

Another day another lesson today haha...as I was tapping into ground point adding extra ring terminal...I started bolting it down, and was definitely too enthusiastic about tightening it...and



Dammit. :D Is there any m6 point nearby where I can use it for ground? I suppose cutting in a new screw next to this is pointless....but I don't have access to a proper garage (parking lot mechanic :D) so what are my options getting this thing out.
I know that you're way over in Croatia (if I remember correctly) but I found that this is an easy way to put add ons if they attach to the battery with leads.


If not you can always drill and tap a new hole for a grounding spot. But easier to get the easy out tap after drilling the center of the bolt. Be sure to use a center punch and hammer to indent the bolt so your drill doesn't walk (move) when you start drilling.

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The rear is easy. Supersprox is your best bet. Combine that with an automatic chain oiler and you should get 20,000 plus out of the chain. The last Supersprox I had was at 100,000. And still had life in it. I gave it to a friend to use. I had to change it because my new wheel set used a different cassette.
+1 on the oiler! At 13,000 miles I put on Ognibene Sprockets and a new DID Gold chain. At 33,000 haven't adjusted it except at tire changes and it goes back to the original spot on the indicator! I come from shaft bikes and I clean my chain every 4,000 miles or so... and it isn't too dirty. Sprockets look new.

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I really like the large windscreen. I like having the FJR and XX. XX is more fun to ride aggressive and the FJR is more comfortable.
Gave my ST1300A to my son for a wedding present... I miss it. Both are great bikes. Tour on both but the ST is more upright so easier to look around.

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Have a friends BB in my shop and he has the dreaded broken lower fairing mount. So I figured I'd Post up my fix for this. It requires a piece of 1/8 in steel flat stock a drill and tap and a vice to bend it. The pics are of the place it was broken off from, the broken mount, the pan bolt I use, the bracket bent and threaded for the fairing bolt and the repaired mount.

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That's great! Although those shop safety shoes are a bit risqué!

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