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The VFR1200X that we never got in N.America also has that strange footpeg position which is the same position as the regular VFR. Almost totally upright like most adventure bikes but pegs set backward. It might work if the bike is high and the distance between the top of the seat and the pegs is large enough. In my case I have a Corbin which is lower than the OEM, so that doesn't help. The Japanese Police VFRs had apehangers and they handled those bikes pretty nimbly so I guess it is just a matter of getting used to it or it was because they all had much shorter inseams than me. LOL!

I bought the VFR because it is such an iconic bike and they are getting difficult to find in good condition. I actually haven't ridden mine since I bought it because I took all the fairings off to check that everything was good and then never got down to fitting them back, or doing any work on the bike as the Bird is my definite keeper. I had Helis for the VFR but sold them to a vfrd forum member who desperately wanted them. I don't think that one can make a fair comparison between the two. They are simply completely different bikes with only two things in common.....crappy suspension and the usual R/R and Stator problem. If I had a lot of twisties in my area then I think the VFR would be my keeper (big MAYBE!), but I live on the Canadian Prairies.

My Bird has Helis but at some point I am going to probably switch to Convertibars as there is so much adjustability with them. I want to experiment with different windshields and then move onto finding the perfect handlebar setup. I actually don't find the Bird ergos too bad with the Helis but I get really bad wind blast on my head with my ZG Touring windshield. Not doing much riding this season due to too many other things happening in my life. VFR will be ridden next year for sure.
MRA Vario touring with Adjustable lip windshield. I ride with the lip down until cold or rainy. I am 6'3" 34" inseam. Wind hits me on shoulders to help support me with lip down.

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MRA Vario touring with Adjustable lip windshield. I ride with the lip down until cold or rainy. I am 6'3" 34" inseam. Wind hits me on shoulders to help support me with lip down.

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Hi XX,
I bought one after our brief correspondence and viewing your forum comments on it. As previously mentioned, I am not riding this season so I have not tried it out as yet. I am pretty sure that the MRA will work as raising my body up actually took away the wind blast contrary to what one might think. I could not maintain that position because my arms were then straight. The turbulence factor plays a large role in this, I believe. I haven't experimented with a tank bag which many people say reduces the turbulence.

I also lucked out with getting a Laminar Lip locally. It will be interesting to see how differently the two windshields perform. The laminar goes onto the OEM windshield. same principle as the MRA but not adjustable.

I also took a cue from what you have said about giving it time, not rushing into peg modifications, and getting used to the bike ergonomics. Generally, I find the bike quite comfortable. The wind blast is the only issue, and it's not half as bad as an F4i! You have to ride an F4i to experience really bad wind blast. Also, those bikes are so light, I was always afraid of being blown into a semi with the cross winds that we get here. It's a track bike in street clothing and a lot of fun to ride under the right circumstances.
Ross
 

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I've had similar problems in the past with windshields, to the point that I've given up on them. Stock shields that are parts of fairings, or maybe slightly taller ones are fine. I used to own a Valkyrie with one those huge tombstone shields, and the buffeting was brutal. That FJR we were talking about earlier? Screen only works for me in the lowest position.
Interesting about the 5th gen VFR. I actually think it's very similar to the bird in many ways: both broadly competent at everything on road, similar weights (bird is 50 lb more), and both have that solid feeling that old Hondas have. For my commute (mixture of city streets and highways), it's a toss up. VFR is a little more fun in Twisties (not because I'm actually faster on it, but because I can rev it out some more without reaching insane speeds), and the bird is better if I need to spend anything over an hour on the highway. For me, the VFR is my never-sell bike, but the I am finding I love the blackbird every bit as much.
 

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I've had similar problems in the past with windshields, to the point that I've given up on them. Stock shields that are parts of fairings, or maybe slightly taller ones are fine. I used to own a Valkyrie with one those huge tombstone shields, and the buffeting was brutal. That FJR we were talking about earlier? Screen only works for me in the lowest position.
Interesting about the 5th gen VFR. I actually think it's very similar to the bird in many ways: both broadly competent at everything on road, similar weights (bird is 50 lb more), and both have that solid feeling that old Hondas have. For my commute (mixture of city streets and highways), it's a toss up. VFR is a little more fun in Twisties (not because I'm actually faster on it, but because I can rev it out some more without reaching insane speeds), and the bird is better if I need to spend anything over an hour on the highway. For me, the VFR is my never-sell bike, but the I am finding I love the blackbird every bit as much.
I will probably end up having two 'Never Sell' bikes once I ride the Viffer. :D It had a high number of people on the forums saying "I wish that I had never sold it!" With the Bird lot's of people said the same thing, but I would also see "I never changed my bike because I never found anything better than the Bird."
 

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The idea of having an upright upper body position with a more sporty footpeg position is oddly quite popular these days - see the MT-09 and MT-10, the Indian FTR1200 etc. In my limited time riding those bikes, I found it odd, but maybe one gets used to it?
Just watched the brief Canadian review of the 2022 BMW K1600GTL. This is the rival to the Goldwing and is a bike that you 'sit in' low, rather than on. In 2012, when it launched it's ergos were like my old CB750.....90 degree angles. Now they have tucked the pegs back. The reviewer, who has over a million miles on Goldwings said that this sporty position gave him more control over the bike. This bike is powerful (160HP) and the electronics are almost at the point where you say "Computer, ..........!" 'Trekkies' will understand. :)

OLD BIKE


2022 BIKE

 

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And once you have the Beemer, every time that you take it for service to the Dealer you open your wallet and say 'Here , help yourself!" :)
Having said that, if one has deep pockets the bike does appear to be really nice, with the usual stupidity that every bike manufacturer seems to include when they build an otherwise superb bike.

According to the reviewer to change heated grip and seat settings you have to engage with a multi step tablet style menu on the main LCD screen. DUH! Change for the sake of change, and not for improved function.
 

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With evening fading light, rear safety, and streamlining the rear license plate hanging down, I added more LEDs in back replacing the smoke aftermarket unit.
This also created some more cubic inches of space inside which is always good.
Up front adding some adjustable brighties in the vents with some new adjusted ventilation in mind if needed. I have better enhanced lighting for twisties in mind when getting in late at end of a long day when ya run out of light.
 

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Did you get it off? Just get the screw out and it should pop right off. The innards are the hard part to remove.
Left it for later - I was focusing on getting the wiring sorted with the stupid addons I'm adding to the bike.

Another day another lesson today haha...as I was tapping into ground point adding extra ring terminal...I started bolting it down, and was definitely too enthusiastic about tightening it...and



Dammit. :D Is there any m6 point nearby where I can use it for ground? I suppose cutting in a new screw next to this is pointless....but I don't have access to a proper garage (parking lot mechanic :D) so what are my options getting this thing out.
 

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If it popped because you over tightened it. You should be able to drill a small hole in it and use an easy out.
 

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Yes yes, I was way to eager to "bolt it down" and wanted it to be secure and tight...but, my lack of experience and how bolts work made me torque it over and over and over :D

I did some "mods" to the bike so making up for the lack of ground bolt was an easy fix at the moment.

I removed the original bulky blinker relay and replaced it with a tiny solid state one because of the led indicators, and spliced the power wire from that relay to a new relay that switches the new 12V line I added to the bike, so I can hook up some extra stuff.

So while routing the cables for that, I made an extra ground wire and when I broke the bolt, I just screwed the original ground ring terminal with the ring terminal for the extra ground, and routed it on some bolt in the back of a subframe near the tail lights. Bike works :D

But this is just temporary, I still haven't been out for a ride this entire year, crazy :D also now that I applied my newfound winter 2020 hobby of tinkering with electronics on the bike, I really find it amazing, I want to make a new harness for the bike or something :D
 

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Had to replace my CCT. Think I did the my mod I've posted on this one at around 50,000. Well at 213,000 its started to tap at idle so swapped in another modded on I have on the self and taps gone. So we'll see how long this one lasts.
 
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Had to replace my CCT. Think I did the my mod I've posted on this one at around 50,000. Well at 213,000 its started to tap at idle so swapped in another modded on I have on the self and taps gone. So we'll see how long this one lasts.
163,000 miles on a nodded one. WOW! That's way beyond what most people are getting on the OEM one.

Now, can you please figure out a similar mod for chain, sprockets and tires :D
 

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The rear is easy. Supersprox is your best bet. Combine that with an automatic chain oiler and you should get 20,000 plus out of the chain. The last Supersprox I had was at 100,000. And still had life in it. I gave it to a friend to use. I had to change it because my new wheel set used a different cassette.
 
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The rear is easy. Supersprox is your best bet. Combine that with an automatic chain oiler and you should get 20,000 plus out of the chain. The last Supersprox I had was at 100,000. And still had life in it. I gave it to a friend to use. I had to change it because my new wheel set used a different cassette.
Thanks for the advice on the Supersprox. I was only attempting to be humorous with my remark, but I got some good advice out of it.
Do they make a rubber dampened front sprocket?

+1 on an automatic chain oiler. I have never seen anyone have any regrets about installing one other than some people complaining about a mess with Scottoiler if my memory serves me right.

Now, how do we make that rear tire last 100,00miles? Don't tell me to not twist the throttle or park the XX! That ain't going to happen! :)

I suggest a link to the original thread where you described your CCT mod........for anyone new to the forum who has no idea what you are referencing.
 

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Front sprockets just the stock rubberized is my suggestion or the oglebie. As for tires all I can recommend for the rear is the Bridgestone T32's. Not 100,000. But how's 20,000 for the rear and 40,000 for the front
 
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