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Got my new R1 Rec/Reg on and hope this controls the heat issue as defined. There was no power at switch after but with fuse and connection checks found it to be just a loose battery at the positive connection. WEW! Will further confirm the ststor condition next hoping this fail was just a couple wires at the RR. Finally went for the pricey farkle covers from over the waters
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so modded the side fairings to show em off a bit. More pics to come when shes all cinched.Here's last pic arrived back home still on trailer after tow from RR fail.
 

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The pain is finally over (for now!):

Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting

To do:
MOT and Tax
Ride for a while

Install Power Commander V
Remove PAIR and install blocking plates
Install o2 eliminator
Get a Dyno run at Dynotech
???
profit
 

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The pain is finally over (for now!):

View attachment 132843
To do:
MOT and Tax
Ride for a while

Install Power Commander V
Remove PAIR and install blocking plates
Install o2 eliminator
Get a Dyno run at Dynotech
???
profit
Are you running the DRL/LED indicators? Are they the ebay ones from Germany?
Bought the chinese clear ones and they are god awful, chrome flaking, etc.
 

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Are you running the DRL/LED indicators? Are they the ebay ones from Germany?
Bought the chinese clear ones and they are god awful, chrome flaking, etc.
Yep, Lightwerks stock bought from Project-R Racing on eBay. About 90 GBP for the pair.

they look good but I need to match my headlight bulb as the OSRAM in there are too soft.
 

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This one took a few months due to Covid, waiting for parts, storms, medical issues etc.. But all done, just waiting for test ride.
  • Fenda extenda
  • New FPR (actually old new refitted being the stronger pressure one unfortunately). Petrol smell in oil from OEM lower pressure one forced my hand. Queens ransom required to buy lower pressure one new.
  • The main reason for the work, a complete HEL brake line install, with 2 extra lines made up to replace pipes over front mudguard, and naturally rebuild of all brake system. I could not get the old pipes to seal, and now there is some flexbility in the forks.
  • Headlight protector
  • New USB/Voltmeter combination unit with new bracket installed. One piece unit now, and the old bbq knob fascia plate supplied the stainless steel. Waste not, want not.
  • Sidestand cleanup and paint
  • Lower cowls removed to make way for 1/2 lower set due from Japan next April. Fabricated 10mm nylon sheet pieces to lock last upper cowl bolt down to lower cowl rear frame mount. pretty happy with result and it will see me clear until April.
  • K&N Airfilter, I'm hoping might lean it a bit after the new higher pressure fuel pressure regulator richening. I really don't want to have to find one of the older Power Commanders to fix the fueling, but may have to in long run.
  • Blue LEDS throughout dash.
  • Repaired tail light bottom mounting bracket and installed LEDs in there with new socket mounts that have suffered heat damage over the years.
  • Cushioned and locked ECU back down firmly.
  • Washed chain, relubed.
  • My only issue is the FI light stays on now, with no faults indicated. I don't know if previous owner had loom fix done, but all everything is ok except the light stays on. Ca La Vie.
I'm a happy chappy, a test ride to check pads aren't sticking etc is up next.
Lottery ticket to check, then when the million comes in I'm off to but a Moto Guzzi V100 Mandello. Very nice looking. A guzzi with power!
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cheers
Pete
 

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Jaws straight bars, along with new brake and clutch hoses and throttle cables.

I never thought I would go for these bars, but I am getting older and I like the more upright position. It feels like a different bike.
 

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Ok,lower 1/4 cowlings received from Webike 4 months early! Might leave them the gelcoat black and continue with some black tank side protectors. Or do I do the whole front end naked thing. Hmmmm. The holes lined up with a bit of coaxing, but could not get the front inside pushpin holes to line up. Just left them. Now I don't have to pull those lowers on and off. I rarely do wet or cold riding now anyway.
That about does it for the mods at moment. refer back to previous post for full list. My intial test ride exposed a broken torque to yield bolt on the front caliper so replaced both. be careful of those as you need to undo them each time you take the front wheel, but they are torqque to yield so therefore they specify replacement every time.
One thing I noticed was a bit more more throttle snatching on the first ride. Could it be down to the new air filter? I expected throttle snatchiness during the ride through the local seaside area with 1000s of cars, but even on the freeway any undulations I had to feather the throttle more than normal.
I will monitor the richness (due to later model FPR instal) over the next few months, and may find the old power commander module somewhere if i have to.
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cheers
pete
 

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If you've changed out both intake and exhaust tracts you'll end up leaning out. The feathering your having to do is most likely lean out. Pull the plugs to confirm it. Also does this have an 02 sensor?
 

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Hi Bees. Happy new year to you and fam. Staintunes have been on it for years. Love 'em. Always run a bit rich. Only put a K&N air filter on this time around with a later FPR on too, the original part no. one (40?) started smelling on vacuum end and oil as well. I put the later fpr on once before and ran too rich, so this time I was hoping combined with the K&N I might get closer to normal. Haven't pulled plugs, only done about 100k max. Exhausts have sooted slightly so I'm figuring not lean. No this one doesn't have an O2 sensor, I presume all FI 1st gens didn't in Australia.
I'm thinking an earlier model power commander unit might go well. What model was that? Were they specific to bike or was the PC model across the range?
Pete
 

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If it's a 99/00 1st gen FI then your going to have to look for a PC3. Unfortunately they aren't available new anymore. So you'll have to keep an eye out. Your going want to look for the USB version.
 

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Thanks mate. I see ebay advertised with bike models everytime. Is that simply the map loaded on it already or is each specific to a make and model?
 

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The maps you can download from the Dynojet sight. It's just the base language that is loaded in that makes it necessary to stay model specific.
 

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If it's a 99/00 1st gen FI then your going to have to look for a PC3. Unfortunately they aren't available new anymore. So you'll have to keep an eye out. Your going want to look for the USB version.
I know this isn't everyone's cup of tea but all my fuelling issues got sorted by fitting a MemJet Evo, it goes by a few other names such as JetPrime.

It's an Air intake temp 'hack'. Not sure if mine is just a variable resistor in a $180 box but it does the job. There is a method of adjusting the AIT with a linear method rather than just dampening the signal (this is because at say 10 degrees Celsius, the resistance is eg. 2000ohm and at 20 degrees it might be 20,000ohm.

Anyway regardless fitted it, no power commander needed. Bike rides like a totally different bike. All my exhaust and filter related issues, sorted.
No more hesitation or surging/stuttering etc.

Highly recommended. Got mine on eBay.
 

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Ive seen those advertised. Wondered about them. Is it just a preset value or can you adjust?
 

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Put the wideband tuner and POD300. Gonna see if the 2nd gen programming can compensate for cold weather.
 

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Fully adjustable but can't go to 'zero'. It goes 1-10 from memory. I set mine at 5 and its perfect for the 38 (C) degree weather here.
So whats the science here? Higher air remp equals what? Less air density or is it not related to density?
 
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