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Your trip sounds awesome. What is a T-31 and PR4? Tires, I assume. I have only run Dunlop Roadsmart II. They last consistantly 12,000 miles and we have a trusting relationship in the corners.
Michelin Power Road 4
Bridgestone T-31. They now have the T32 out.
Michelin is good in the wet but expensive. Has a broader profile. Doesn't turn in as easily as the T32.

T31 and T32 has a more peaked profile. Much less expensive and so far has lasted longer too. Several members said it was good in the rain too. Beestoy is getting some phenomenal miles out of the T31.
The T31 was great in the corners but when it was 100 out it didn't like the tar snakes at all. Haven't had a chance to test out the wet weather characteristics yet.

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More less al of the parts are here, now to find a decent shop to do the work, that'll be the biggest challenge of it all haha.

One thing I'm wondering about is the suspension. The Nitron shock is for 95-100kg which is around my ideal weight with gear, but a year or two ago I ordered stiffer rated front springs, linear type. I'm aware I can not assess the suspension of this bike while I'm riding around with the original Japan-rider-spec rear shock, 20 years old as well, but my hunch is to go back to progressive OEM springs?

Does anyone know if it would be "better" to put in progressive springs (the bike spends all of its time on the road) and thicker oil? Rather than stiff linear springs that have to deal with all sorts of funky bumps on the road. So my idea was, OEM front springs and 10W oil, given that 7.5 is original, right?

Please advise :D
 

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In the spirit of keeping this going...

Didn't think there was much of a vacuum leak but as I'd bought some silicone vacuum hose, thought I'd change it all out.

Picture of the ends of the hoses and one of the new hoses fitted.
131793
131794
 

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One thing I ordered stiffer rated front springs, linear type. My hunch is to go back to progressive OEM springs?

Does anyone know if it would be "better" to put in progressive springs (the bike spends all of its time on the road) and thicker oil? Rather than stiff linear springs that have to deal with all sorts of funky bumps on the road. So my idea was, OEM front springs and 10W oil, given that 7.5 is original, right?

Please advise :D
Stick to the linear set your air gap to stock and try running 7.5wt. Your biggest issue is going to be the factory damping. It over or stiff from the factory. Changing oil weight will help but changing the valving is the better deal. But it's not cheap. If your not doing the work yourself demand all the old parts back. That way you have a better chance that the new parts were put in.
Find the viscosity index for the Honda spec. Wt and viscosity are 2 different animals. One manufactures 10wt can anothers 5wt. But viscosities are universally the same standard and the better way to compare. Also if you have to mix 2 different weights to get what you want. Stay in the same manufacturer for the above reason.
 

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Replaced Dunlop RS2 tires Friday, got 12,000 miles from them and got the new ones broke in yesterday. Bought new Yuasa YTZ12S battery last week as a spare and my old YTZ12S battery died today. Lucky me. Installed new one today. Old: 12.6V-off, 3.5V-attempting to start; New: 12.6V-off, 10.2V-starting, 12.8V-1.2k RPM at idle, and 14.2V-5k RPM. Good to go again. Old battery lasted 6yr/3days and 114,775 miles. Oh, and I'm at 163,447 miles and taking at trip to AR/TX soon.
 

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Stick to the linear set your air gap to stock and try running 7.5wt. Your biggest issue is going to be the factory damping. It over or stiff from the factory. Changing oil weight will help but changing the valving is the better deal. But it's not cheap. If your not doing the work yourself demand all the old parts back. That way you have a better chance that the new parts were put in.
Find the viscosity index for the Honda spec. Wt and viscosity are 2 different animals. One manufactures 10wt can anothers 5wt. But viscosities are universally the same standard and the better way to compare. Also if you have to mix 2 different weights to get what you want. Stay in the same manufacturer for the above reason.
Fair enough bees! Thanks! I'm wondering is there a method to calculate the oil needed, and air gap? The issue with testing gaps and oil weights is two fold; I have no garage of my own, so no way of DIY'ing and the shop that is going to do the service is quite far off. So the only realistic way to test those combinations is to do it while the bike is there in shop, but that might be too tedious to tear down forks back and forth for half an hour of ride around that shop.

I'm not looking for perfect setup, but perhaps just bring the front of this bike and its old fork style to some decent level above OEM and certainly above what it is now.


I found this regarding viscosity - but I don't know how to interpret these graphs, 40C, 100C, what do these figures mean, 40C cold fork oil, 100C heavy use "track day" type of riding and front end torture? Looking at Honda Showa SS8 oil which is stock...would going down to SS7 on linear springs I have now do the trick? Along with the Nitron in the back.
 

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Fair enough bees! Thanks! I'm wondering is there a method to calculate the oil needed, and air gap? The issue with testing gaps and oil weights is two fold; I have no garage of my own, so no way of DIY'ing and the shop that is going to do the service is quite far off. So the only realistic way to test those combinations is to do it while the bike is there in shop, but that might be too tedious to tear down forks back and forth for half an hour of ride around that shop.

I'm not looking for perfect setup, but perhaps just bring the front of this bike and its old fork style to some decent level above OEM and certainly above what it is now.


I found this regarding viscosity - but I don't know how to interpret these graphs, 40C, 100C, what do these figures mean, 40C cold fork oil, 100C heavy use "track day" type of riding and front end torture? Looking at Honda Showa SS8 oil which is stock...would going down to SS7 on linear springs I have now do the trick? Along with the Nitron in the back.
If you want I could call Jamie Daugherty and find out how much his kit weighs and see what shipping would cost without springs. Then you could buy the recommended springs locally.

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Tom, you said you ordered linear front springs but they may be too stiff? What is their rating?
As you probably know, the racetec website gives recommended spring rates for this bike /rider combo.
 

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@XXGUY thanks but no need in buying special parts, I would be content to get this standard OEM front to best possible condition, I have all new service parts, linear springs are there already, now I'm just trying to figure out which oil would fit my needs best.

What is their rating?
The invoice for my front springs says; FRONT SPRING KIT LINEAR 10 N/mm

I don't know which oil was put in when those linear springs were put in place, and I don't know which gap did the mechanic went with, they just handed me the bike with new springs. I really can't say I noticed some incredible difference from OEM progressive and those linears when they were installed 2 yrs ago. But then again, I'm riding on 20 year old rear shock, way over the ideal weight it was spec'd for...

I'm 6'2 and weight I'm ideally at is from 200-210 or so, Nitron made rear shock within these parameters so only thing left is to have the front complement it.
 

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Tom
I'm going to say the 1.0 springs are good for your weight. You're correct in your thinking as to the temps on the table. Those are shown so that the person can see how far off the fork oil drifts once it's beem worked. If the ss7 is akin to what others list as a 7.5wt. Then I'd go with it.
As far as fork oil changing yes unless your doing the change yourself it can be a bit labor intensive. Just mainly due to the fact that you have to pump out the oil from the cartridges.
The easiest way would be to pull the forks pop the caps turn them upside down and cycle them. That should get 90% which is enough to get tour testing to a good starting base.
Air gap is pretty easy as you'd already have the fork off. It consists of collapsing the outer tube all the way down, filling the fork, cycling the cartridge rod the setting the air gap. I'd recommend one of these.
131810
 
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Tom
I'm going to say the 1.0 springs are good for your weight. You're correct in your thinking as to the temps on the table. Those are shown so that the person can see how far off the fork oil drifts once it's beem worked. If the ss7 is akin to what others list as a 7.5wt. Then I'd go with it.
As far as fork oil changing yes unless your doing the change yourself it can be a bit labor intensive. Just mainly due to the fact that you have to pump out the oil from the cartridges.
The easiest way would be to pull the forks pop the caps turn them upside down and cycle them. That should get 90% which is enough to get tour testing to a good starting base.
Air gap is pretty easy as you'd already have the fork off. It consists of collapsing the outer tube all the way down, filling the fork, cycling the cartridge rod the setting the air gap. I'd recommend one of these.
View attachment 131810
That tool is inexpensive and it makes the job really easy too.

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Just got back from my VA to TX and back to VA trip. Got hard rain the last 10 miles, welcome home. Replaced the sparkplugs (oem NGK) and a fresh oil change (oem GN4 10W-.40) Old plugs had 38,000 miles on them. Currently at 166,503 miles. Running strong.
 

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Just got back from my VA to TX and back to VA trip. Got hard rain the last 10 miles, welcome home. Replaced the sparkplugs (oem NGK) and a fresh oil change (oem GN4 10W-.40) Old plugs had 38,000 miles on them. Currently at 166,503 miles. Running strong.

Is the 166,503 miles without any work on the engine at all ..?
 

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Is the 166,503 miles without any work on the engine at all ..?
Your getting closer. Gonna have to put some miles on to keep you at bay you rascal;)
 

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Your mileage is so impressive. I hope to get there one day. Have your heard of a BB failing once the mileage gets high enough. 250-300,000 miles?
He is cheating though. He lives in an area that you can ride all year! Not like us northern folk!

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Your mileage is so impressive. I hope to get there one day. Have your heard of a BB failing once the mileage gets high enough. 250-300,000 miles?
Haven't yet I'm at 210,000 and some change now I'll let you know in about 40,000
 

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He is cheating though. He lives in an area that you can ride all year! Not like us northern folk!

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True but this years monsoon season has come back with a vengeance. Not as much rain but 75% humidity. Think we got to 112 today. With this humidity cool vest isn't as effective but I wouldn't want to ride without it even still.😓
 
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