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If you've never done the road between Missoula and Lewiston ID, Hwy 12, try to fit it in. It is a great ride. April does sound a little iffy, weatherwise. Always an adventure.

Ride safe
 

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If you've never done the road between Missoula and Lewiston ID, Hwy 12, try to fit it in. It is a great ride. April does sound a little iffy, weatherwise. Always an adventure.

Ride safe
Done that 4 times now. It is very nice!

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Went to measure how much space I have under the seat where the tools are supposed to be. It's pretty spare area, height wise...I put some gardening sponge under to see when it clips, if my hack measurement is correct there's no more than approx. 2cm of height there between the "tool rails" and the actual seat. Did anyone address this, is there a way to make that space at least a bit more...spacious :) ?
 

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there's a surprising amount of space by the tail light. i have my tire patch tools (rope plug & co2 inflator) and dash cam "head unit" there. short of cutting and re-shaping the under tray, i can't see getting more "headroom" there.
 

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there's a surprising amount of space by the tail light. i have my tire patch tools (rope plug & co2 inflator) and dash cam "head unit" there. short of cutting and re-shaping the under tray, i can't see getting more "headroom" there.
Got a big black box on there now. Thats where my cruise control module sets. But yes there is a pretty big space there otherwise
 

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I recall someone on the forum did indeed cut into the undertray to create a deeper storage area. I'm sure a search will dig it up. A Corbin solo Smuggler seat also adds extra storage too.

I for one keep a tyre/ tire battery powered inflator in the tail (USB rechargeable from the USB port under there too) and a "Crafty Plugger" kit in the D-lock tubular section to bang up any holes to limp home.


That said. Once I do go for Bees cruise control that may have to change. @Bees, still saving up and nothing out there seems capable of even touching your set up.
 

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I recall someone on the forum did indeed cut into the undertray to create a deeper storage area. I'm sure a search will dig it up. A Corbin solo Smuggler seat also adds extra storage too.

I for one keep a tyre/ tire battery powered inflator in the tail (USB rechargeable from the USB port under there too) and a "Crafty Plugger" kit in the D-lock tubular section to bang up any holes to limp home.


That said. Once I do go for Bees cruise control that may have to change. @Bees, still saving up and nothing out there seems capable of even touching your set up.
You won't be sorry to get it. I love it.
Yes, I have read that someone cut and modified the tool box area and put a nice storage box on this very forum. Had pictures too!

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I did notice that this "red area" is pretty generous in length but, I'd like more space in the yellow area :D but I don't have the knowledge how to address this -how to make this as "OEM" as possible if these tool compartments are cut off. How to glue it back together with flush straight design without these extrusions, I'd need to get some fibreglass expert to take a look and see what can be done.

The other solution, Corbin smuggler solo seat sure does look good, saw some pics of Birds with it, I sort of dig the look, if those are out of stock maybe a local upholster can make one...

I can't find some more detailed pics of that smuggler single seat on a Bird, anyone have those?
 

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I did notice that this "red area" is pretty generous in length but, I'd like more space in the yellow area :D but I don't have the knowledge how to address this -how to make this as "OEM" as possible if these tool compartments are cut off. How to glue it back together with flush straight design without these extrusions, I'd need to get some fibreglass expert to take a look and see what can be done.

The other solution, Corbin smuggler solo seat sure does look good, saw some pics of Birds with it, I sort of dig the look, if those are out of stock maybe a local upholster can make one...

I can't find some more detailed pics of that smuggler single seat on a Bird, anyone have those?
Idea???

Cut off raised parts. Get a stiff but flexible material and cut to size. Glue it down. A good glue material? I would look at using that black urethane glue used to install windshields in automobiles. I believe it can be bought at auto parts stores.
As stated before. Someone actually made a box which even went below the surface for more space. Cleared his tire with the rear suspension fully compressed. I saw it on this forum.


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Changed oil, checked and looks like I will be adjusting the chain as it is a bit tight. R&R brake pads. Taking off the nose cone to replace the headlight bulbs with LEDS. I can take pics and start a post if anyone is interested in that last feature.

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xxguy, regarding the led install, please do!

even though my gtr h7 led install is working fine, i'd be curious to see if you have issues with the retainer wires.
 

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Ok, I will record it. I bought them from Electrical Connection for my 2015 wing as they specialize in wings and they are in Knoxville, TN and all their stuff is made in the USA. I was so impressed with the lights that I asked if they would work in my CBR 1100XX. They said yes. The LED is the only one that I know of that mimics the led placement as having the exact placement of the old H7 bulb so the reflector works well with it. Also, anyone know of a quality DRL switch back kit for the front turn signals?
Will be doing it within the week.

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Ok, I will record it. I bought them from Electrical Connection for my 2015 wing as they specialize in wings and they are in Knoxville, TN and all their stuff is made in the USA. I was so impressed with the lights that I asked if they would work in my CBR 1100XX. They said yes. The LED is the only one that I know of that mimics the led placement as having the exact placement of the old H7 bulb so the reflector works well with it. Also, anyone know of a quality DRL switch back kit for the front turn signals?
Will be doing it within the week.

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The GTR's and Morimoto 2 strokes do as well. They were specifically designed to match the standard incandescent bulbs in all of the versions.
 
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Checked brakes and did a double take on the rear set. Hmmm, I don't see any pad! Fronts have at least half their life left...
Well, this is why I do winter maintenance and checks! I don't think I would have gotten much more life out of these!

New ones are now installed!

I also put in the LED elements in the headlights. I will post but I have to go figure out how to splice them together. Otherwise I have about 10 shorter snippets.


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… Also, anyone know of a quality DRL switch back kit for the front turn signals?
I really like the ProjectR kit for the front indicators with DRL. Tailored to our birds. DRL can be wired to the park light or where ever (the leads are truly plenty long enough). The set is plug and play thereafter (indicator unit swap and relay swap). Lenses are E-marked so prob DoT compliant (though you'd need to check). Units are sealed but can be opened if an led were to blow (if you are careful and happy to reseal).

Only available in pairs (that I've been able to find). DRL temp colour matches that of my headlight (through you are not able to specifiy diff colour temps when purchasing). DRL stays on while indicator operates (I like that) though I'm sure you'd easily rewire to have it go off via a relay on the indicator wire if you wish.

I've been thoroughly happy (on my second set post 2019's Q4 slide).

Wait one and I'll post a link.
 

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We don't have a park light on this side of the Atlantic.
I'd preferto find one where I can replace the element.

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… I'd preferto find one where I can replace the element...
Understood. I used to have a set-up which is like what I think you are looking for.
131177
131178


GregR did a great step by step guide I followed originally:

As well as the consideration of whether to change your indicator flashing relay or fit the resistors (see later), the other thing about kits can be length of the cables/ leads/ pigtails. They can be too short so be prepared to add extra (esp if you have mirror extenders fitted) and watch out for if they end in Honda OEM terminals or whether you need those too (else snip and crimp/ solder your own).

My Carbie has bullet connectors but I think later FIs have a different one (as per GregR's write up).

After using a set up similar to the above with clear lenses I disliked seeing the bulbs when off so I started to look for smoked lenses. Came across the ProjectR set up by accident but liked the angled DRLs. So swapped. I have to say, installing them was way easier than my old set up.
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Black LED Turn Signal Indicator Front with Sidelights Honda CBR 1100 XX Blackbird | eBay

What both have in common is you'll still have to decide where to tap into power for the DRL live feed.

So decide do you want them not only say on a relay to only be "on" when the ignition is on but whether you want a manual switch too (like the way the horn is set up) or just wired to the headlights full stop (to be on when it is - easiest). If you go led you'll need a kit with built in resistors (so the flash rate stays correct) or replace the relay.

The ProjectR kit I bought came with an upgraded relay capable of managing filament and LED simultaneously. The benefit of that was firstly no hot capacitor to try to find a nook to mount them in without melting anything and also I could upgrade my rear indicators to led at a later date (which I've now done too) or revert back to "all filament" without worrying about relay flash rates again.

We don't have a park light on this side of the Atlantic.
So your right switch gear does not have a three position light switch then?
131175

UK has "off", "side/parking light only" (bulb inside base of headlight unit accessed from panel under the font of the nose cone) and "on" to make dipped beam come on and hi beam to be live (so on/off depending upon two switches on the left switch gear being a momentary flash to pass or latched on/off). My DRLs are wired via the middle switch position. If you are feeling cash rich you could always upgrade to UK switch gear if you aren't hardwiring the DRLs to be always on. Keep that OEM look!

Anyway… good luck. Have fun. Keep us posted

Rgds Mallow1
 

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We don't have a park light on this side of the Atlantic.
I'd preferto find one where I can replace the element.

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Check ebay motors for clear turn signal lens covers. Then change the bulbs to LED switchback type, such as this: www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1157-switchback-led-bulb-dual-function-60-smd-led-tower-a-type-bay15d-retrofit-car/1915 . Please double check the base type, this is from memory. Type A turns off the white marker light when flashing amber. Type B does not.
Best to go with an LED flasher unit instead of the resistors.
There is a small amount of additional wiring as the marker light needs a continuous 12V feed (I tapped into the low beam).
 

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Mallow no we don't have this.
So your right switch gear does not have a three position light switch then?

131175
 
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