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Getting the test engine up and running. Only hit on one cylinder. Suspect stuck injectors going the let them fuel soak in the rail overnight and try again in the morning. Went from no fire to popping off number one at least. SO some progress. If the fresh fuel soak doesn't help I'll dump in some Mercury Marine Quicklean. Stuff has worked miracles before fingers crossed
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today rebuilt sticky rear caliper with new seals and polished the pistons
there was rust in the caliper bores as the fluid had not been changed in a decade or more
now doesnt rub all the time ...
 

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Found a tiny puncture.
Taking the culprit to the nearest scrap yard
to see if it'll cover the cost of a new rear tyre. 😢

Tyre.jpg


Yes, I plugged it and it's fine.

New tyre, nevertheless. Shame. 🥺


 

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just refitted the tourmax thyristor RR on the german XX i have done the following to make sure it will dump hear from the shunt via the back plate
1 take off the double sided tape the earlier owner had put on to hold in in place as he had only used one bolt ( doh )
2 drilled a second hole in the mounting plate to fix it a both sides as the centers are different
3 sanded down some of the paint on the frame to get better heat transfer
4 sanded lightly the back of the RR alu plate to get it flat and able to hold the heat transfer grease i applied ( as used in pc's to send heat from the cpu to the heat sink )
5 applied a thin coat of the heat grease ( an aluminium paste ) to it
6 firmly bolted it to the frame so there is a flat contact surface
7 applied contact cleaner to all the contacts and filed the RR contacts to remove all oxidisation
8 Then i started up and the RR got quite hot on the back but the heat was immediately sunk to the frame plate and dispersed
the front of the RR got warm but not really hot
9 then i ran the system under load and no load and checked the break over voltage and it was steady at 14.5 v
10 one it had been running for a while i checked the temp of the infeed wires and they were slightly warm but not hot, the output wires were cool
11 then i stopped and took off the connector to check the temp of the RR spades , they were warm but not hot
result
ill do some test rides in the coming days and check the terminals of they are suffering from heat exhaustion
12 i may go again to my trusty viet pc specialist and see if he has some 2nd hand heat sinks i can use that will disperse the heat from the backing plate even better than the frame as steel is not a great conductor of heat
paul
 

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Pull the tire patch it and ride it till it wears out. I have done that with 2 rears and a front
 

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About 150 kilometers (yes, I'm in the US, but my XX is a Canadian bike, so all my math is metric for this one) into a local ride loop, I noticed that the voltmeter I wired up a few summers ago was trying to tell me that I was slowly losing juice. Pulled back into my driveway just as I lost the gauges.

So tonight, I'll begin playing the loom/battery/stator/reg/rec diagnostic game. While I've been lurking around here for five or so years, now I finally get to start using some of the good parts.
 

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well im in the same position as you but on the overcharging side ...
1 do a between phase voltage check on the stator at 3000 rpm this can be done between the yellow wire terminals in the RR plug and as a bonus you will see if they are toasted
1a do a resistance check on the stator to ground
2 then do a voltage test on the terminal of the battery to see if the rr is giving you 14.5 v or under or worse over you will see the breakover point when you speed up from idle to 3000
3 run the bike and see if the rr is getting very hot and if the heat transfer to the fram plate is good
then you will know the lay of the land
paul
 

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just been restoring a 20 year old radiator with slightly bent core and lots of bent over modine fins
about 2 hrs straighting them out using a jewlers screwdriver and then knocking the core straight with a mallet
sould be ok for several years use once painted
 

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just got a box of goodies for my next project bb from germany, got to check it all out
mainfold
front brake set,
carbs
airbox
that will keep me busy tomorrow...
 

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Took Daily Bird out for its first run since the partial release of lock down. Only 50 miles but surprisingly my wife and I bumped into a couple of friends who were also out for a ride! 10 weeks without riding has been hard although I have kept in practice riding Daily Bird 20 foot every day from our driveway back into the garage. ;)
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I went on perhaps my first "big ride" of the year, a whooping 300 kms! :D



I have to get the suspension serviced, I was scooting around some small background villages where the roads are bumpy and worn out due to age, the bike is really acting bad, hopping around. I wish I had a reference, someone with a bike that's 100% suspension tuned to similar weight to mine, so I can understand the difference.
 

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A reference isn't really necessary. Somebody who knows how to setup suspension and will do it for you (or teach you how) is.

My old Bird went from a nasty, bouncing, wobbling mess to the sweetest bike I'd ever ridden after paying a guy $60 to tweak it. Of course, the fact that the P.O. had installed a $1200 rear shock. But still...I've used his techniques on my current bike with stock suspenders and it made a big difference!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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A reference isn't really necessary. Somebody who knows how to setup suspension and will do it for you (or teach you how) is.

My old Bird went from a nasty, bouncing, wobbling mess to the sweetest bike I'd ever ridden after paying a guy $60 to tweak it. Of course, the fact that the P.O. had installed a $1200 rear shock. But still...I've used his techniques on my current bike with stock suspenders and it made a big difference!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Nice to hear from you Dok.

Tom,
I know you are in Croatia. Try Jamie Daugherty's set up.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Another day, another complaint! :D

I will describe my "issue" in the most visual way possible, bare with me if it's a silly analogy, but I can't think of anything better.

Modulating the throttle, imagine the first "5%" the very first twist while the grip is fully released. Why does it feel that the bike judders a bit when I apply that initial, small dose of throttle? It's not obvious on the open road, for obvious reasons, but in the city when I apply very small amount of throttle, I notice it.

I presume it's something with air, fuel, or ratio? :D
 

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I find in city it can be touchy especially if i had left the palm rest on.! Otherwise yes slightly touchy more so if im cold or tired and lose that physical finesse of 'floating' the throttle. Especially if uneven road surface. Not a good city traffic bike.
 
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