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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Follow up to my previous thread of Dec 2017 West Country Windings rewound alternator/stator.

Mines been in now and done 9k+ with no issues at all. A couple of mates have had theirs done and every one has failed, one after 300 miles and others below 3k miles. Been to another failed one today. Luckily i have a good OEM spare one.
This is my WCW one after 9k+
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Spare OEM one.
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Friends WCW one after 3k miles.
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And the wire size.
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OEM wire size.
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Cant measure mine as its on the bike but my wire windings seem much closer to OEM style. Only other difference between my mates is reg/rec. I run the SH847 type.
So, is it thicker wire that seems to last longer or is the thinner wire being overloaded causing premature failure?
Question for you electrical gurus out there.
 

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Does thinner wire have more turns = more volts. ?

"Mines been in now and done 9k+ with no issues at all. A couple of mates have had theirs done and every one has failed, one after 300 miles and others below 3k miles. Been to another failed one today "

" Only other difference between my mates is reg/rec. I run the SH847 type. " This is the magic bullet. That and the slightly lesser but still excellent FH020AA .
 

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In answer to your question on turns. Yes more turns equates to more current. Wire diameter will effect resistance and there for heat.
Smaller = higher resistance.
Smaller = higher wire count more power.
Smaller + Smaller = poof
 

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I was on a uk fb site a d there were 3 guys punting for rewind jobs
People tried them out and none were really good
However there are several variables involved
Reg rec really ok and enough ventilation..
Harness connectivity really ok
Battery ok
On large additional current drains like heated this or that?
The systrm is only as good as the sum of all the parts.
Paul
 

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Paul, agree if one part of the charging circuit is on the way out, then it can take out the other parts too.
Also, one small point which may seem upside-down. Current drains like heated gear can actually be a good thing as this turns power into heat at a remote location instead of all at the R/R. While LED bulbs that take less current force the R/R to burn hotter (not mosfet but old style).
 

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Fizzy, Paul.
Second your statement Fizz. The reason I switched over to the Series R/R was for the very reason you state. Jack had these available from another supplier. I had discussed switching to this style. He recommended it for track day bikes or ones used for both street. Because they typically disable the lighting systems and so the power has to go somewhere. He didn't recommend using one on a street bike because the added benefits were not that great over the cost increase. The were then typically 100.00 plus more than the MOSFET R/R.
As you have stated reducing system load just moves the power consumption to another part of the system.

In the stock systems it's the stator that becomes the load termination point. The stock R/R isn't really designed to shunt current itself.

Newer MOSFET R/R' shunt more of the load internally. Due to the newer component design. This helps the stator for obvious reasons.

The series R/R shunt almost all of the load internally. Hence thier larger footprint. And this makes a happy Stator.
 

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Evening pals,

I have a WCW in mine and it is my 4th stator. With Pete's help, The most recent iteration of stator ring and reg/rec (with baking tray mounts) is working really well. It used to kill stators, reg.recs and batteries with demoralising regularity. I've some maintenance to do soon so perhaps I will whip the cover off and see whats gone on...

In my limited experience (compared to some very leggy birders on here) WCW is a fit and forget thing which is, in this instance, all we want, right?

Cheers,

F
 

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Evening pals,

WCW is a fit and forget thing which is, in this instance, all we want, right?

Cheers,

F
If, WCW = stator from west country windings......or any good stator for that matter, then no.
It's more like a 3 legged barstool that will fall if 1 leg gives way. They are; stator, R/R and battery. If one fails, it may take out the others. In other words, your WCW stator can be damaged thru no fault of its own.
Other potential weak link is the wiring. Best to connect output from R/R directly to the battery pos/neg with 2 fat wires (w/30amp fuse).
 

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If, WCW = stator from west country windings......or any good stator for that matter, then no.
It's more like a 3 legged barstool that will fall if 1 leg gives way. They are; stator, R/R and battery. If one fails, it may take out the others. In other words, your WCW stator can be damaged thru no fault of its own.
Other potential weak link is the wiring. Best to connect output from R/R directly to the battery pos/neg with 2 fat wires (w/30amp fuse).
Sorry for the lack of clarity on this...

I minced a few stators, RR's and Batteries so did it the way you say above.

Hard wired in the RR at the same time as new batt and stator. No problems since then at all.
 
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