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Older wiser and sorer
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Discussion Starter #1
The other weekend I went down to Phillip Island here in Victoria to watch the Classic bikes. What a day!! Anyhoo, on the way down I had my phone plugged into my combo voltmeter/usb setup and the voltage dropped its readout after about 20k down to 13.3 or so. Up and down though, 14.2 then down to 13 or so. Then phone normally drags only .2V out of it and in a steady steady fashion.
On the way home, I left the phone out of it, and thought all was good, but then after about 20k or so, down she went again. and drifted.
I have already replaced stator about 20k ago. When it failed it dropped voltage down and down, no drifting.
I have never replaced reg/rec, but what I understand their faulting often results in over voltage.
The battery is approx 3 yrs old.
I'm thinking this could be battery going through a few failing moments before inevitable depth.
Any thoughts?

Since then it's been at the suspension guy doing an overhaul for me of forks and shock, so can't tell whats happening now.
cheers
pete
 

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Play, it makes life fun
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My cheap ebay one would drop voltage when it would get hot. More resistance. I got my good voltmeter and performed ohm checks on my stator and then clipped the leads to the battery and put the seat on and went down the road. Everything was fine. So I second not trusting the one meter.

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I had something similar happening last year. I suspected the voltmeter too ($2 off ebay) but turned out that wasn't it - I ended up hard wiring the regulator to the battery (rather than through the loom) and the problem went away immediately. I'm guessing there was some type of resistance appearing in the loom - it is 22 years old after all. That's 154 in dog years. Don't forget to put a 30 amp fuse in the +ve wire if you do this...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Interesting. I can't remember where i bought the voltmeter when i built the unit in 2014. Either jaycar or ebay. Might hard wire my multimeter for a test. https://www.cbrxx.com/members/15988-albums937-picture45856.html
I did find myself wondering if it was the reg rec starting to go but they go high voltage don't they?
And the thought of stator showing early breaking down signs as it heated up crossed my mind.
Just goes to show there are two important things to have for these old girls. Handlebars and voltmeters.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Voltmeter replaced. Yet to test ride. Next step might be leighs suggestion and i might take a meter across the stator.
 

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PBZ
They can do either way short high voltage output or open low voltage. Its the nature of tons to be unpredictable
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bess, are you talking about the reg/rec?
If so, do they go fast or slowly, or either?
cheers
pb
 

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PB
Yes was referring to the R/R. But it's been a long while. After I switched over to the MOSFET technology I never lost another one.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well after 200k yesterday and last to and from the city with the new voltmeter installed im relieved to say it seems it was the old voltmeter. New one stayed on 14.4 the whole way. Resoldered and recrimped connections. Last one was in for 6 yrs so not bad. Meanwhile have been in contact with jack from roadstercycle and he specified the 20AA or if i am concerned about stator life then the 847. Apparently the 847 is bigger size. He sent me the measurements so i will measure up and see. I dont have the thickness measurement though. Anybody fitted the 847?
Pb
 

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Yep fitted 2 of them so far. Are you running a lot of LED converter lights PB.
The 847 is a series regulator. If your primarily stock incandescent run the 20AA.
What year is your BB. Both of my installations were done on the left side of the bike. This requires a special bracket if you use the 847. The 20AA can be mounted with a very simple adapter plate. I moved the 03 position to facilitate the ohlins remote resevior and more importantly to get rid of the 1 1/2 feet of extender harness the factory installed to move the R/R to the right side.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep fitted 2 of them so far. Are you running a lot of LED converter lights PB.
The 847 is a series regulator. If your primarily stock incandescent run the 20AA.
What year is your BB. Both of my installations were done on the left side of the bike. This requires a special bracket if you use the 847. The 20AA can be mounted with a very simple adapter plate. I moved the 03 position to facilitate the ohlins remote resevior and more importantly to get rid of the 1 1/2 feet of extender harness the factory installed to move the R/R to the right side.
No LEDS. so the 20 should be the go. Mine is a 2000 xy model. First FI. seems a bit hybrid or first gen because the rr is on left side. So where does mosfet come into this? The 20aa? Might order one to keep as spare. Bike is 104000k old. Had it since 72000 and never replaced rr only stator.
Thanks bees. You are a great help on the best bike forum ive been on.:geek:
Pb
 

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Same version here #9 built in 2000. I have a template for a mounting plate I can send you to make it pretty much bolt on. You'll need a couple flat head screws an nuts to complete the mounting. I made it out of 20 gauge sheet steel. I wouldn't worry about a spare RR. I've got one of his very first versions a 12AA. The only reason I pulled it after 10 years of use was because I'm pretty much LED lighting for everything. The regulator now sees all the excess voltage and the series is designed for that.
Save the coin and buy an extra stator instead. Since the change that's the only component I've had fail since.
 

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Ok I'll get you a copy it'll be a full size template you just need to trace it out.
 

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The JPEG needs to be 2552 X 3312 pixels then you'll need to print it at 110% to get the correct size. The vertical part of the T needs to be 4 3/8 inches long the shorter one needs to be 3 9/16
 
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