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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1997 BB, with an LED headlight and the Wingrack 2 lights. Just replaced my stator and regulator/rectifier (Rick’s MOSFET and their Honda stator), and when I ran it up to 5000 rpm to check voltage, I only managed to get up to 13.89-14.1 on the multimeter. Is there something else wrong, or am I good?
 

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If you checked it right after starting. Some of the voltage might be being dumped into the battery. Best to charge the battery overnight then do the test again.
 

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Two things to add to beestoys advice.

1. Install small voltmeter on the dash to monitor voltage.
2. Rewire the output from the R/R to go directly to the battery as the factory wiring goes thru the loom and may be losing some voltage. Should be seeing 14.5V max.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Two things to add to beestoys advice.

1. Install small voltmeter on the dash to monitor voltage.
2. Rewire the output from the R/R to go directly to the battery as the factory wiring goes thru the loom and may be losing some voltage. Should be seeing 14.5V max.
I have a usb charger with a voltage meter on it. Is there a diagram somewhere with the steps to follow for doing that? Also, what tools do I need to do it?
 

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Two things to add to beestoys advice.

1. Install small voltmeter on the dash to monitor voltage.
2. Rewire the output from the R/R to go directly to the battery as the factory wiring goes thru the loom and may be losing some voltage. Should be seeing 14.5V max.
Good call Fiz I'd forgotten because it's been so long. Taking the output directly to battery is best.
 

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I have a usb charger with a voltage meter on it. Is there a diagram somewhere with the steps to follow for doing that? Also, what tools do I need to do it?
Very
You'll need some 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp blade fuse. Depending on how Rick's R/R is setup you'll just need to route the red positive leads to the positive terminal and the black to the negative. Then tape seal up the factory plug coming out of the bike wire harness. Then tuck it back up under the frame somewhere.
If you get us a pic of your setup we can fine tune the directions to your application.
 

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Verg, not exactly sure what help you are asking for. How to mount usb/voltmeter? hook up the wires? Wire R/R direct to battery (see beestoys above)?

Note: a forum member manufactures a bracket that mounts to the key bezel for this exact purpose. Maybe someone can chime in regarding this.
 

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Several of us have made up voltmeter mounts to the ignition mounts. Mine is in my pics. One problem I have is in bright sunlight. The next one I do will be a 3d printed housing to sit on top of dash under screen. I also run a USB in line with it to run phone, and have made both switchable on/off.
Make sure your voltage meter is DIRECTLY wired to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Verg, not exactly sure what help you are asking for. How to mount usb/voltmeter? hook up the wires? Wire R/R direct to battery (see beestoys above)?

Note: a forum member manufactures a bracket that mounts to the key bezel for this exact purpose. Maybe someone can chime in regarding this.
I’m trying to figure out how to wire the R/R to the battery. Also, I found the leakage out of spec, and it’s on the circuit for the clock. Once I pulled that fuse, everything tested normal. Specifically, I no longer have a parasitic draw.
 

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Ok well then hook it up as I stated earlier.
Sounds like you may have an insulation breakdown or corrosion issue in the clock circuit. I'd ring that circuit to ground with it disconnected at the source and load and see what it shows.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok well then hook it up as I stated earlier.
Sounds like you may have an insulation breakdown or corrosion issue in the clock circuit. I'd ring that circuit to ground with it disconnected at the source and load and see what it shows.
DO you have a diagram of the circuit, or is there one on the site somewhere?
 

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Yes in the resources section there is a factory manual you can download. It has schematics for the BB
 

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I have a question regarding the R/R being directly wired to the battery. What if a power distribution module is installed on the bike? Is it still best to wire R/R directly to battery? What about the voltmeter? I plan on getting a new R/R for my bike bc not sure of its age or its condition. Bike has stock headlights and front turn signals and rear has led tail lights and led brake lights. What would be the best R/R for that combination? Thanks.
131004
 

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Ok, hook up R/R directly to the battery: (same as beestoys post #6 but with more detail)

1. Output from R/R is currently connected to the loom via multi plug. Disconnect it and tape over the loom side connector as this is no longer used.
2. + and - output to be connected to 10 gauge wire.
3. - goes straight to the - terminal on battery.
4. + goes thru 30 amp inline fuse and then to the + terminal on battery.

You will need appropriate electrical terminals and proper crimper tool, and have to cut off multi pin connector from R/R.

Note: your R/R may have additional wires that may need connecting. Maybe show pic?
 

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I have a question regarding the R/R being directly wired to the battery. What if a power distribution module is installed on the bike? Is it still best to wire R/R directly to battery? What about the voltmeter? I plan on getting a new R/R for my bike bc not sure of its age or its condition. Bike has stock headlights and front turn signals and rear has led tail lights and led brake lights. What would be the best R/R for that combination? Thanks.
Goto R/R is the FH020AA. Roadstercycle Home (roadstercycle.com) top place to get it, IMO. The "superkit" has all wires already prepped for direct battery hookup.

Your power distribution module has no affect on this at all.

Voltmeter should be connected to any output that turns on with ignition or it will drain the battery.

Note: FH020AA is slightly bigger than OEM and takes a small amount of fab work to mount.
 

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2nd fizzy
 

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I have a 1997 BB, with an LED headlight and the Wingrack 2 lights. Just replaced my stator and regulator/rectifier (Rick’s MOSFET and their Honda stator), and when I ran it up to 5000 rpm to check voltage, I only managed to get up to 13.89-14.1 on the multimeter. Is there something else wrong, or am I good?
You’re good...and the LED’s don’t pull one tenth vs your old incandescent!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You’re good...and the LED’s don’t pull one tenth vs your old incandescent!
Sweet! That's means I can stop stressing and start riding again! I took Black Lightning (one of my aunts who passed last year named her) out for my morning work commute, and when I got back, it looked like the voltage fully recharged the battery (volts showing was 13.2 once the cooling fan switched off).
 
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