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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello wise members :D


I did check the valve game, 3 in valves needed adjustment.
So far so good.

Before I took out the camshaft (only in), I put the first gear in (to prevent to turn the engine),
and I marked the position of the cam chain in relation to the sprocket.

When I was done with changing shims, I put it the sprocket back to the market sprocket teeth, but not tightened it yet.

After that, I see, that the cam of the first valve does not relate to the position of the exhaust first valve, normally, they are like mirrored.
So I did check the mark lines with a mirror and see, that the in-marks do not relate.

How is this possible ? Maybe my chain jumped while I did check the valves (2 times) ?
(honestly, I did not check the in-marks so closely before marking the sprocket, so yeah, maybe it jumped.. )

It is for me not easy to check the position of the in marks, because while I look with a mirror,
I find it very difficult. Is there any another trick or mark, how to check the right position of the in camshaft ?


Thank you very much for reading.

Marks before taking out.jpg
Ex.jpg

And after putting it back on the marked teeth:

After.jpg

Putting it one teeth back, so that the marks align:
After 1 teeht back_LI (2).jpg
 

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Re: Valve game adjustment - putting camshaft back - chain jumped ?

It is possible that the chain moved on the crank sprocket when you had the cams out of the engine.
The crank and cams are in the correct position but the chain has moved.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Valve game adjustment - putting camshaft back - chain jumped ?

Ok, thanks. Fair enough.
So the position of the in-camshaft in the last photo,
together with the position of the ex-camshaft in the second photo should be ok, right ?
 

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Re: Valve game adjustment - putting camshaft back - chain jumped ?

Ok, thanks. Fair enough.
So the position of the in-camshaft in the last photo,
together with the position of the ex-camshaft in the second photo should be ok, right ?
Yes they look ok providing the crankshaft mark is also in line and the cam chain tensioner is in correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Valve game adjustment - putting camshaft back - chain jumped ?

Yes, cam chain tensioner is fully turned and secured with this small special tool, that came with a new tensioner.
The crankshaft mark is on the | mark next to the T.
 

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Re: Valve game adjustment - putting camshaft back - chain jumped ?

Yes, cam chain tensioner is fully turned and secured with this small special tool, that came with a new tensioner.
The crankshaft mark is on the | mark next to the T.
The cam chain tensioner should be in its WORKING position - not released and held with the special tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Valve game adjustment - putting camshaft back - chain jumped ?

It is still released, because was not sure about the position of the camshaft and did not put the camshaft holders back yet.
Of course, I will put it in working position, after I put the holders back.
Or am I missing some think ?

(Although the workshop manual says to release the cam chain for checking the valve clearance)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re: Valve game adjustment - putting camshaft back - chain jumped ?

Now I think, that the chain had jumped. I did all the valve clearance check with released CCT.
I compared my marks on the EX-camshaft and the chain is there on the same position like before, although the IN-Marks are not.

Anyway, if it would be the case a the chain jumped, still I have to bring all the marks on the right position (IN, EX, T-Mark) and that's it, right?
 

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There is a good chance that the chain has moved on the lower sprocket when the cam was out. I wouldn't be concerned about the position of the chain.
Line up the exhaust sprocket mark and replace the cam cap if it is off.
Pull the chain tight at the front of the engine and ensure that the mark on the Exhaust sprocket is in line.
Pull the chain tight where it passes over the two sprockets and check that the Inlet sprocket mark is in line.
There will be slack on the chain at the rear of the engine, it is this that the tensioner will take up.
Put the inlet cam caps back on
Release the tensioner gently and recheck the marks they should still be in their correct positions.

If either mark is not in line with the face of the head remove one cam and adjust as necessary.
 

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Then when all is in place carefully rotate the engine over a couple times with a ratchet and socket on the crankshaft bolt and recheck your marks. If they are still right your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thank you all for all the answers,
you brought me on the right track.
One year ago, I wouldn't be dreaming to do all the maintenance tasks alone.

At the first attempt, I aligned the marks, put the crankshaft back holders on and tightened them.
After that, the mark for the exhaust was one teeth too much. Ok, opened again and set it one teeth back. Basically that, what my mark was the beginning.. Nevermind.

Putting the cover with the falling of gasket was a horror for me. After several tries, I put silicone grease (not silicone sealing) on three spots, cleaned the insides after pushing hard on it and it worked on the first attempt.

The worst of all of that was for me to clean the old silicone sealing and put the new silicone on the 4 halfmoon spots where you cannot access it properly and eventually put too much or split it all around.

Today I put back the carbs and did the carb sync with very professional digital synchronizer, that I bought together with one friend.

There was one oil spot underneath the 3rd cylinder. I will clean it and watch it again, hopefully it was there from the installation process...

!! The good news is, that that "ticking", what was appeared after my workshop did the valves, is definitely gone !!!

I attach a boring video of that synchronizer, for the case, that anyone cares:

https://youtu.be/b-46_C7rO-g
There is some small problem on the cylinder 4, but that is another story. Maybe I open the carb again, to check, if I put everything right..

Best regards
Miro

Gesendet von meinem Redmi Note 4 mit Tapatalk
 

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Great work Miro. It's always good to save a bit of change so you can throw it into other parts if her to improve her.
Know the shoddy shop quagmire you got caught up in with the valves. Did a buddy of mine BB a while back. Shop supposedly did checks. Well when I got it #4 was dead because intakes were negative on clearance and being held open. So compression at all. Number 2 was firing of dynamic compression only static was only 50 psi. All of the shims were dimpled. So scrapped them all and put all new correct shims in and now it drips up the road like. Proper BB should.
 

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Great work Miro. It's always good to save a bit of change so you can throw it into other parts if her to improve her.
Know the shoddy shop quagmire you got caught up in with the valves. Did a buddy of mine BB a while back. Shop supposedly did checks. Well when I got it #4 was dead because intakes were negative on clearance and being held open. So compression at all. Number 2 was firing of dynamic compression only static was only 50 psi. All of the shims were dimpled. So scrapped them all and put all new correct shims in and now it drips up the road like. Proper BB should.
How do shops like that stay in business? That's the reason why I started putting money into my own tools and doing my own maintenance.

Congratulations miroslav. Valve train on the Bird is one thing I haven't done yet but need to do soon.

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