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As far as chains you'll want something on the top end of the strength range no less than 9000 psi tensile. That being said DID and EK have been my choices. She is a bit heavy and makes a good amount of power. Parting a chain has happened to a few here with very bad results. (Split case). I run a Supersprox stealth on the rear 45 tooth and factory cushioned up front. I also run a pro oiler chain luber that makes a little mess. But I typically get at least 30,000 or so out of a chain front sprocket. Haven't had to change the stealth until I changed out the rear wheel because the bolt pattern was different. That sprocket has over 100,000 miles on it is still good to use.
 

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Of the ones you listed, I would pick the first one because it lists the tensile strength. (10700)

Just over a year ago I purchased: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-1998-1999-CBR1100XX-Blackbird-CZ-DZO-O-Ring-Chain-Sprocket-Kit-17-45-110L/273750348785?fits=Year:1997|Model:CBR1100XX|Make:Honda&hash=item3fbccad3f1:g:Kr0AAOSwWkFcgfSE (9200)

I've got a little over 3k on it, holding strong and have not adjusted since the one time a week after I put it on (barley any at all).

The one you listed has about 1500 more tensile strength.

Good luck!

-Nick
...also the cheap riveters suck! Buy a good one or borrow one to avoid the headache.
 

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Yeah, I reckon buy the best if you want it to last like the oem chain and sprockets did...... I bought a mid spec RK x-ring and JT sprockets for my BB as I only use it as my spare bike - so I figured I didn't need a super good chain....... and it feels it........ so buy a top shelf chain & new sprockets (JT are good quality, Super Sprox also top shelf).... if you want the oem feel.

Just for info..... my 05BB oem chain & sprockets lasted to 119,000kms/74k miles and would have gone on longer (until I got sick of the vibes an old dry x-ring chain emits)..... at least the old chain had worn evenly..... it just got vibey after 300kms when the chain lube wore off..... ;)

Ps that was fun.... grinder, breaker, dry riveter....... greasy hands...... but straight forward if you have done it before....... otherwise be careful - if it lets go it'll f.k the bike :evilaugh:.
 

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...also the cheap riveters suck! Buy a good one or borrow one to avoid the headache.[/FONT][/QUOTE]




Listen to this wisdom and you will be much happier. I bought a cheap one and ruined a $10 master link, spent time and mo ey on fuel to go get a cheap one then return it. Bought a good one off Amazon for $125 then when it arrived found it on Ebay for $95! This one is almost foolproof. Does the job right, makes it so you cannot squeeze the o-rings at all. Just make sure you grease the threads on it prior to use. High tensile DID or another quality name brand. Cheap chains from China are just that a $60 rubber band that you will be changing out when they stretch out early on. Good luck,
Guy

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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If your XX is your primary ride and you can afford it get the best. A quality chain/sprocket setup definitely makes difference in ride quality and feel. Supersprox rear, original Honda with the rubber dampener rings for the front (makes front MUCH quieter and smoother) and a DID 530ZVM-X.

BTW - The BEST way to clean off sticky chain lube is WD40 and a common small pink/orange shop towel. Spray down the towel a good bit with WD40, spray some on the rim then just keep wiping all around the rim and swing arm. Within a few min all the chain lube will be on the towel and the rim and swing arm will look like new with with a protective film of WD40 on them. Don't wash after, it's better to leave the WD40 on the surfaces. If rear wasn't too crazy bad you can now use the dirty soaked towel to clean brake dust from the front as well. Definitely wear gloves, it's super messy. No need for gunk or expensive cleaners.
 

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I use wd40 for exactly that too. so easy to clean rims and swingarm. Then I give the disc a good once over with metho in case i got some on the disc.
 

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"Supersprox rear, original Honda with the rubber dampener rings for the front (makes front MUCH quieter and smoother) and a DID 530ZVM-X."

Same as I run. Don't forget to get the front nut loose first. May as well change the clutch fluid too. Check the clutch rod for wear and bends.
 

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BTW - The BEST way to clean off sticky chain lube is WD40 and a common small pink/orange shop towel. Spray down the towel a good bit with WD40, spray some on the rim then just keep wiping all around the rim and swing arm. Within a few min all the chain lube will be on the towel and the rim and swing arm will look like new with with a protective film of WD40 on them. Don't wash after, it's better to leave the WD40 on the surfaces. If rear wasn't too crazy bad you can now use the dirty soaked towel to clean brake dust from the front as well. Definitely wear gloves, it's super messy. No need for gunk or expensive cleaners.
I hate to go into "how to clean the chain" threads those are dime a dozen BUT...my cleaning stack looks like this;

- clean the chain with paraffin oil (or some call it kerosene)
- wipe
- lube with 80W-90 gear oil, or Motul spray if in a rush

WD40 is great for cleaning the grime from the wheels
 

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Is this a 45 tooth sprocket? I did a quick search on Supersprox website but it said the Stealth in 45t was n/a.
Hella yes it is and at the time they were still available. If you can't find one somewhere else I'd give them a call or do the request. I'm sure they can turn one around pretty fast.
 

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if you love your bike dont skimp on a cheap chain
if the chain fails and decides to wrap up on the pinion you can
1 fall off as the rear wheel may seize up ( look YT at the mulholland guy falling off )
2 even worse it may decide to fold up and penetrate the casing in which case you have no more engine
ive seen this happen to others twice and its not a pleasant sight
 
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