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Discussion Starter #1
On this new to me 97, it has a blown 30a fuse where the red 4 wire connector is. I haven’t dug into it too far just looking around. I pulled all the fuses from the accessories like horn, headlight, fan, clock and tried another 30a fuse. It blew once the 4 wire connector touched the pins. I disconnected the Allen wire that goes to the starter and tried another fuse, blew instantly again. I haven’t looked at the book yet but looking for thoughts.
The bike sat undercover for a decade likely. The key was replaced with a toggle switch, I have a replacement ignition coming. I’ve pulled the tail cover and I don’t see any chewed through wires. Could this be a stuck relay or?
Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #2
For those interested, being the era of the BB I disconnected the regulator and the fuse stopped popping. I would believe the previous owner replaced this as only one 8mm screw mounting it to the bike was present. The electrical plugs are likely aftermarket push to connect. I’ll have to source the factory plug
 

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Do as Fizzy says put one on about 10 years ago and never had to change it again. Well except when I switched it to the series regulator jack sells now. It's worth every penny spent for the above reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I bought the Ricks unit for the bike. I have one on the other BB and so far so good. Is this the type of unit your referring to.
 

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Looks like they sell 2 R/Rs, which one did you get?. Go to website I highlighted, there is a section on identifying genuine mosfet units and compare. Either way you should connect the unit directly to the battery w/ 30A inline fuse. The existing now unused connector can simply be taped up, all circuits will be back fed, no extra wires needed.
 

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I bought the Ricks unit for the bike. I have one on the other BB and so far so good. Is this the type of unit your referring to.
No sorry for the mixup. That is a stock style bridge rectifier. Rick's stuff is good but it's not MOSFET architecture design.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I bought part# 10-115. I haven't clicked the link just yet. I'll have to source a work g how to on the direct battery connection. What does this accomplish?
 

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According to ricks website you have purchased the old style R/R. The other more expensive unit that they carry claims to be a mosfet design. That would be more desirable. In any event, wiring the output directly to the battery eliminates the existing 20 year old loom from the charging circuit and replaces it with new heavy gauge wires. Read the roadstercycle site, it shows this exact move. Members here can assist with bird specifics.
 

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Kiwis
Apologize for the mixup read my above correction.
The hookup is pretty straight forward. Instead of running the red leads and green leads back into the factory plug (which you should delete anyway. They have a tenancy to burn out) you run them to the battery terminals. Use 10 gauge standard wire and eyelet connections. Put a 30 amp blade fuse in between the regulator red lead and battery then to the battery post.
The factory harnesses are know to breakdown over time and can start causing charging issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well shucks! Maybe I'll send back this unit and request the newer style. Could you provide the part # I should look into?
 

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If you can return for credit, just get the unit FH020AA from roadstercycle, called superkit, comes with all wires to go straight to battery. FOOLPROOF. I know cause I did it. Just need to fab a mounting bracket as the holes are different.
 

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If you switch to the 20 let me know I have a template for a mounting plate you can use to bolt it to the stock mount.
 
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