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Discussion Starter #1
Just took the Bird out for a spin post-Christmas, sunny day and all.I'd fitted a new HID light from a fellow bird owner (surplus to his requirements) and after a few miles with my incredibly bright front light, the bird hiccuped, then died. Nothing would move it.I pushed the machine 2 miles back to the house (full winter gear = in-suit sauna) and pulled out the multi-meter and the Haynes manual.To cut a long story short, I checked the battery, and it was fine (always on a trickle charge) and then went to have a look at the electrics. Took off the seat and seat cowl and pulled the connector off of the reg/rec. This is what I found (see attached).Before I tear out what remains of my hair - what went wrong, and what can I do to fix? I'm handy with a spanner, but in a spin at the moment thinking all of my bike's electrics are shot. :(97 carb bird, 60k miles.
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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If the battery is still good you better have a look at the connector on top on the starter relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the quick reply lads!

It's dark out now, and dinner's on, so I'll have a look at the starter relay tomorrow.

But the consensus is that the reg/rec is fried?
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, Christmas out the way, holiday out the way, and I got a new Reg/Rec for the bike. Seemed a logical first step.

I found the main fuse had blown, and replaced it, and fitted the new Reg/Rec (minor job). Charged the battery up full.

Cables to the RR - power and earth reading correctly on the multimeter.

But - I checked the continuity on the three yellow wires coming out of RR and going to the alternator. A disturbing 'infinite' resistance. Is the alternator shot?

Now, when I turn the ignition key, there is still no life to the bike - no lights on, nothing. Could this be because of the alternator?

When I bridge the starter terminals (probably not recommended) the bike does turn over, so power is getting somewhere.

So what now? The big wiring diagram in the Haynes manual seems to suggest that the bike's lights should at least come on when the key is turned, no matter the state of the alternator.

A bit puzzled now lads.
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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There is a connector right beside the two terminals you jumped to test the starter. Unplug it and see if anything is melted.
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Hmm. Is the clock working?

When you measure resistance on the yellow leads, you're measuring the wires that go to the stator, not the R/R, right? Forgive the stupid question, but it's important to be certain we are on the same page.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Click isn't working, and the resistance was on the ones to the stator, not the R/R. Thanks for walking me through this mate. I'll be glad to get the old bird up and running again.
 

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xxx99
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I have said it before and i will say it again....my silverstar head lights are just fine! Your bike is not made to have a projector headlight. Some will disagree but thats my 2 cents :) good luck...I would do the reg/rec which you did.... and a new stator/alternator for sure...and get rid of that light...

And with the plug looking like that are you really going to leave it on the bike??? :nono: Im glad you got a new one... I would never run the reg/rec again!
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Click isn't working, and the resistance was on the ones to the stator, not the R/R. Thanks for walking me through this mate. I'll be glad to get the old bird up and running again.
You may want to check the main fuse again, and verify its continuity with a multimeter. If even the clock is out then there is no power to the harness unless the clock fuse is blown as well, and that would surprise me. Also have a loom at the main fuse terminals for corrosion. What dis the contacts look like when you pulled the connector at the starter solenoid? If all these check out, try reading the voltage across the main fuse terminal and the battery negative post to see if we are looking at a ground problem.
 

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I'm going to chime in here -

First there are many threads about this and many repeat posts happen but here's another one

The FI BB is heavy on the generator so even though that connector from the stator looks bad it is unlikely to be anything to do with your original problem - it didn't suddenly burn


My advice to anyone with the means is to remove the plastic plug from the stator to RR and solder the wires - no more melting

and as already mentioned everyone should check the top of the solinoid for a melted fuse holder, these are both common problems on the BB

OK lets take a step back with your current issue, you fitted a new headlight then experienced problems of no power
First - your stator has nothing to do with your problem so forget about it for now
Keep your old RR as there may have been nothing wrong with it

Assuming you have a live battery one of the main fuses is blown (there are 2x) check them both and get back to us also read the fuse sockets for 12v on one side

and everything shewie said {)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, got a new multimeter after son 'borrowed' my old one, and had some time to look at the bird today.

Firstly, thanks guys for both of your sets of advice!

Here's what I've found...

Main fuse - a-ok. Continuity/resistance checked with multimeter, and it is intact.
All fuses in fusebox - a-ok. Visually checked, and checked with multimeter.
Main fuse terminal - looks ok. Shiny enough and clean.
Contacts at the starter solenoid - a light film of green over them - some kind of 'substance'. Looked like it was meant to be there - the terminals are not corroded. Cleaned it up regardless.

Voltage reading across terminals of main fuse - 0.0v.
Voltage reading (subsequently) across terminals of fuses in fusebox - 0.0v

And yet, I get a healthy voltage across the terminals of the two thick cables going into the box with the main fuse (solenoid).

I had a look around the harness for a second 30A main fuse, but couldn't find one. I have a 97/98 carb bird, and I couldn't trace a second fuse in the Haynes manual wiring diagram.

And I've been through the Haynes manual and haven't a clue. I've checked other threads in the forum to see if I can find a solution, but nothing that seems to fit.

So... Is it the solenoid?

Any advice would be wildly appreciated. I have my winter bike (CBF500) which still gets me from A to B, but it just.. ain't... the same.

:(
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Ok, at what points are you measuring the main fuse voltage? If you're measuring across the fuse itself you're not going to see much.
Stupid question, is the key on for this test?
 

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first of all you don't have a clue what you are doing - no disrespect intetenfed and right now I'm pissed so excuse the typo's


you have two simple measurements on a meter - voltage - which will generally be between battery negative or earth and anywhere tou are expeting to see 12vdc - like a fuse on both sides - the exception to this rule is the generationg circuit which is a whole different thing



or resistance - which is continuity - if you put your meter on ohms or resistance test and touch the leads together you should see a reading near zero - so if you put across a fuse it should read through the fuse showing a good fuse - this is not voltage


I'ts 3am here and I'm going to sleep - todays lesson is over but I hope I explained it right


ok I read over my post and it is not very clear - someone will be along soon to explain what a tried too


my bad or what - nite nite


ahem all in the best possible to help
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nah, I follow what you're saying mate. No need to clarify. I guess I'm not too clear in what I was doing... First time for everything!

Basically, I checked all that I could, and I'll do it all again today when I get back.

Thanks again for all your help. :)
 

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Mr
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Another vote for the Relay.

Do you turn the key and you have no lights on the dash
You know your battery is good.
Your AM/PM clock may or may not work. (my case the clock faded out when I turned the key)
Relay stinks of bakelite?

Try making some spade connectors off and plug them into your burnt out R/R connector and the other end to the battery (make sure the connectors aren't touching else bye bye battery). If you're a bit paranoid, wire in series a really low amp fuse (<5 - preferably 0.25A). Live to Red, Negative to Black/Green. Ignore all yellows. Try turning the key for 1 second JUST to see if the dash lights up - DON'T try to turn it over. If your dash lights up buy a new relay. They are about £20.

The R/R doesn't (or at least not on mine) connect the battery side of the relay/fuse, so effectively you are bypassing it, which should light the dash. If you try to start the bike you are pulling across the smaller cables in your loom instead of the chunky starter cables. Don't do it :)

If you're running a Fi (which you aren't, but someone else reading this later might be), I think those have an extra sense wire. I'm assuming that runs at 12V (I have NOT checked and have no means to do so). That might need to go to the positive terminal too for testing

I had a similar situation with a completly dead bike.
http://www.cbrxx.com/body-paint-electrical-lights/19913-flashing-speedo.html
I ended up changing everything but the stator.

Change the plug or recrimp and see if you can waterproof it. Looks worse than my worst R/R failure. There is a good chance the R/R is gone, but that will stop the bike charging, it won't stop the battery from supplying 12V to the rest of the bike
 
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