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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Be good insurance I've done it both ways with no issues. (Changed and not changed)
Great thank you, my other question is, I have the gasket set B seals part number: 16011MATE01, and by looking at other people's pictures of this seal kit, mine look a bit thin.
I know they use the same seal kit for the wax unit, and iam wondering if there is a bit of a mistake on the micofich with both parts having number 3.
I dont want to start the job with out all the parts really.
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Great thank you, my other question is, I have the gasket set B seals part number: 16011MATE01, and by looking at other people's pictures of this seal kit, mine look a bit thin.
I know they use the same seal kit for the wax unit, and iam wondering if there is a bit of a mistake on the micofich with both parts having number 3.
I dont want to start the job with out all the parts really. View attachment 132857
Yes there is a misprint. When ordering the kits it's best to use the master number. In the case if the fuel joint its #6. The wax unit uses 2 different masters depending in what part you dismantle. One is 8 the other is 16. Hope this clears things up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Brilliant thank you, yep I get it what they've done, good job I did an order for the number 6, so I get the joint and orings then lol.
I will do I write up and pictures when I start incase some one else gets stuck.
 

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I replaced the joint set when with the new FPR but the 16yo original looked pristine - I needed mechanical assistance to remove it (pliers) ....... could've left it in but I had the new joint set ($40Au :eek:) in hand so I put it in.... easy job.

I replaced the FPR as a precaution (no sysmptoms, just forward planning) while I was doing some covid maintenance last year :D.... good therapy while I couldn't ride much. Also treated some rust that was hiding out of sight up under the roof of the fuel tank (acid clean and 2 stage sealer kit) and replaced the 16yo original fuel filter while I had it all apart. The fuel pump passed the 10sec volume test so it went back in with some new gaskets (y).
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I replaced the joint set when with the new FPR but the 16yo original looked pristine - I needed mechanical assistance to remove it (pliers) ....... could've left it in but I had the new joint set ($40Au :eek:) in hand so I put it in.... easy job.

I replaced the FPR as a precaution (no sysmptoms, just forward planning) while I was doing some covid maintenance last year :D.... good therapy while I couldn't ride much. Also treated some rust that was hiding out of sight up under the roof of the fuel tank (acid clean and 2 stage sealer kit) and replaced the 16yo original fuel filter while I had it all apart. The fuel pump passed the 10sec volume test so it went back in with some new gaskets (y).
Yer mines 16 years old, and not failed yet, just doing it as a precaution.
I know when I did it to my cbr929 I went from 36mpg to 42mpg.
At the minute iam getting 34-37 uk mpg, so I will soon find out lol, and I've got a new cct and vacuum hoses as well, so shes getting a treat, yet again lol.
 

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Hi All,
I changed the FPR about 3-4 years ago (my bird is 99 model) with 2002 model and the engine is much smoother and i can see only improvement in engine power delivery and the surging has stoped.
Hi Adrian. Did you notice richer running and higher fuel usage? When I did it to my 2000 gen1 i went up to over 7L/100KMS. I could smell the richness. So i refitted the old one only to have that definitely fault so the new one is back in again. Hoping a K&N air filter might lean it a bit this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Adrian. Did you notice richer running and higher fuel usage? When I did it to my 2000 gen1 i went up to over 7L/100KMS. I could smell the richness. So i refitted the old one only to have that definitely fault so the new one is back in again. Hoping a K&N air filter might lean it a bit this time.
I think someone said about if you changed the fpr out and used the higher pressure one in the earlier fuel injection systems, you can sort the over fuelling out with a power commander, so I've heard anyways, I've got no proof though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh and I never got the joint and orings in time, so I just put a drip of engine oil on the protruding old oring on the joint pipe, and fitted the new fpr as is.
All fine, no fuel leaks, so thanks beestoys the info.
I will put the new joint pipe and orings away when they finally show up.
 

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Oh and I never got the joint and orings in time, so I just put a drip of engine oil on the protruding old oring on the joint pipe, and fitted the new fpr as is.
All fine, no fuel leaks, so thanks beestoys the info.
I will put the new joint pipe and orings away when they finally show up.
Your welcome good sir. Glad it worked sometimes it doesn't which is usually the case if you don't buy the pieces. Maybe it knew you had and decided to play nicely. 😁
 
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Hi Adrian. Did you notice richer running and higher fuel usage? When I did it to my 2000 gen1 i went up to over 7L/100KMS. I could smell the richness. So i refitted the old one only to have that definitely fault so the new one is back in again. Hoping a K&N air filter might lean it a bit this time.
I did, but honestly it's hard to nail it down, so much has happened since. I never had the chance to run it on the dyno as planned.I have done many changes and I can't remember what yr the 50 psi reg went it.Then my PC2 died and was replaced with a supposedly tuned PC3 similar to my set-up.Bike lost big power and has been very rich ever since.
My next plans are to test the fuel pressure,replace the oil pump chain and double check the block off plates and if any of those cures my other problem (slight rattle noise) THEN it gets dyno tuned.
It never made sense to me that more pressure would be bad as the injectors control the flow, so I thought.
 

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Parts
The higher pressure will effect the fueling. The MAP is set up under a given pressure. The injector time remains constant throughout the table depending on the cell picked by the computer.
 
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