Honda CBR XX Forum banner

21 - 40 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
That's the problem with old OEM shocks, turning the "adjusters" is like pushing an elevator button many times expecting it to show up quicker. Best bet (obviously) is to save your pennies and get a quality unit. In addition to keeping the tires in proper contact with the road, you find that long rides are less fatiguing as the shock takes the punishment so you don't have to.
 

·
Play, it makes life fun
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
On the subject of BB suspension.
If you've been here for a while then you know that I totally swapped out the old stock for new. For around $820 USD. What a difference! Got rid of all that bouncing skittish behavior and the harshness over the cracks or joints in the road. Stock was beating me to death. For the money this is one of the first things your money should be spent on to improve your ride and thus your enjoyment. I just went over some railroad tracks and saw it was a little rough just feet before I got to it. Uh, Oh! Tensed up for the jarring, stood on the pegs legs bent and..... nothing, she just went over and that was it! Just another shining example of the worth of suspension upgrades.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Nato you want the shock to rebound as quickly as possible without bouncing. That way the wheel can react to road variations as quickly as possible IE dips and holes. Unfortunately the rear shock on the BB has only one adjuster. So what you do to one side effects the other. Here is a tip I was given for rebound. Compress the rear suspension as far as your able. Then release it and watch it's reaction. What your looking for is a slight amount of overshoot. Turn the adjuster to a softer setting. It can be a bit hard to detect, your looking for a bit of bounce. Once you see this turn the adjustment back the other direction until it stops. That should be about the ideal setting for rebound.
That sounds like plausible tip Beestoys and I appreciate your input but does that info in the book make sense to you, or is it just me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
On the subject of BB suspension.
If you've been here for a while then you know that I totally swapped out the old stock for new. For around $820 USD. What a difference! Got rid of all that bouncing skittish behavior and the harshness over the cracks or joints in the road. Stock was beating me to death. For the money this is one of the first things your money should be spent on to improve your ride and thus your enjoyment. I just went over some railroad tracks and saw it was a little rough just feet before I got to it. Uh, Oh! Tensed up for the jarring, stood on the pegs legs bent and..... nothing, she just went over and that was it! Just another shining example of the worth of suspension upgrades.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Ah, now that's the info I was hoping for. Thank you, thank you. Now question number two, what brand and model shock exactly did you buy? Sound like you've done well.
 

·
Play, it makes life fun
Joined
·
1,864 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
NATO,
It's all in this thread. Even how to put it in on the forks. Jamie Daugherty
Suspension. It's called something else but Google his name and you will find it. Suspension starts around post #25-27


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Oh no, the link doesn't work!
 

·
Play, it makes life fun
Joined
·
1,864 Posts

·
Play, it makes life fun
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
If that doesn't work then search the forum " Getting ready for a three week trip"

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,022 Posts
That sounds like plausible tip Beestoys and I appreciate your input but does that info in the book make sense to you, or is it just me?
I have to agree that sounds backwards to me also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
TPMS, a few pointers:

1. Irrespective of your view of the ideal pressure or TPMS accuracy, they'll generally let you know if something has changed gradually (dropped beneath a limit) or catastrophically (puncture… though 95% of us ought to spot that one anyway… omg how do you ride with only 7 psi without killing yourself bro! ).

2. Vastly different types of TPMS:
a) bluetooth v wireless
b) always on v wake up
c) external v internal (to the tyre)
d) replaceable batteries v sealed unit
e) phone app v dedicated mobule

Decide on the tyre pressure set uo good for you then TPMS will highlught when that changes. Tick in box.

Bluetooth is more flexibke than wireless (e.g. 433Hz) re e.g. option of phone app verses dedicated module. Eutopia for me is system I can check bike from indoors (phone app) but once riding there's somthing on the bike giving me a heads up if prob.

"Always on" runs the battery down quickest but is immediately there before you ride and during. Some only wake up at best once vibration starts (usually you've started the engine) though at worst once you've travelled along for a while. Latter is bolting door after horse has gone.

Externally mounted on valve stem a) make sure you swap to metal valve stems else prone to valve blow out through fatigue (not good re catastrophic delfate). Vulnerable to theft. Make sure metal valve reolacement is a T config (i.e. TPMS on one arm, free other arm to inflate deflate else you'll be removing sensor every time you change pressure bearing in mind security locks on the TPMS).

Internally mounted (like a car) are more secure but a pain re battery replacement or potential probs re run flat damage or in tyre foam/ goop.

Replaceable batteries: some systens are sealed requiring expensive replacement if senors despite only battery being the prob. Some of these can be hacked into.

Replaceable batteries is defo desireable (fyi I've not yet come across rechargeables)

Internal wifi non replacedble battery I wentwent for Doran. Always on, deducated unit plus remote warning light.

Being a geek I added an external BT device and Fobo T metal valve.

Cant decide which to embed in my dash (to prevent theft… replacing the digi click on a carbie bird as I'm putting a digi clock embedded into the gaue face).

My Doran may be relegated to under seat install (though I have reversed the LCD polarity to have green on black as my screen).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
I have to agree that sounds backwards to me also.
Good, glad it's not just me. It got lost in translation maybe.
Hey mate, I tried your trick of compressing the suspesion etc but that shock is such a piece of shit that it didn't work. Couldn't really manage it by myself too.
What I did discover, was that the previous owner had wound the damping screw all the way back to the end on the soft side. I took it back to it's factory position in an effort to start again and see how it feels next ride.
Just to check with you, the book says factory damping is one full turn counterclockwise/backwards after you have seated the screw at the full hard setting. Mind you, I don't have any faith in the shock, or this dial, but it gives me a chance to fiddle with the bike and try to tweak some improvements out of it, even if they are marginal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,022 Posts
You may want to put it on the center stand and pull the link plates and check the roller bearings and sleeves. If it hasn't been tended to in a long while and your in a wet environment the system will bind. That would explain the severe stiffness. Unless the shock is blown out then no amount of adjusting will help. What you can do as well to see is once you have the plates off back the spring seats out completely. drop the spring and test out the shock hydraulics themselves. There should be a bit of resistance as the shock is supposed to have a Nitrogen charge in it. Might work better if you put the link plates back in with just the bolts and then fit and cycle the suspension through its travel and see how it feels. It would also be a good time to see how the adjusting needle makes it react. take it from full seat pull up on the wheel and let it drop then turn the screw full lock the other way and do the same again. take not to feel the difference on compressing the shock as well. Then you'll have a pretty good idea how it reacts at both extremes. That should give you a bit more insight on how it reacts in the suspension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Link plates and roller bearings and sleeves, sure, why not, may as well check. Thanks. Hadn't thought of that.
I had a quick visual check whilst pusing up and down on the rear end and from the outside it was moving freely. Didn't look like it was binding. Can you tell if these bearings are stuffed just by doing that? And is it normal to need to replace these parts on the bird?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
If that doesn't work then search the forum " Getting ready for a three week trip"

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Found it through the search feature. Amazing thread...felt like I was with you man! Truth be told I only read up to the fourth page so not sure how the trip turned out. I got a lot of info about the suspension rebuild which was very helpful, so thanks. You're a braver man than me doing this job. Really sucked about the coolant tank though eh?
I am soooo looking forward to upgrading the suspension but no money at the moment so will continue galloping around on that stock shock for a while longer messing around with tyre pressure to compensate for stiffness.
 

·
Play, it makes life fun
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
That coolant tank... a lot of that pain was self inflicted due to me not noticing the tube on the bottom. Time pressure due to the need to have the bike back together so I was in a rush and missed things. Don't let that deter you.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,022 Posts
Link plates and roller bearings and sleeves, sure, why not, may as well check. Thanks. Hadn't thought of that.
I had a quick visual check whilst pusing up and down on the rear end and from the outside it was moving freely. Didn't look like it was binding. Can you tell if these bearings are stuffed just by doing that? And is it normal to need to replace these parts on the bird?
Not really
Generally know they don't need replacing. There are seals that keep the grime out of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
What a brave post Aussie Dave.
I have found that 42 psi is just too firm for me. I agree that it is optimum but disagree that it's critical.
Cheers Nato,

Nothing brave about my post - it's just what I run, and others are free to choose what they need/like ;).

I've had a lifetime of riding and follow what pro tyre fitters advise - not the 20yo manufacturer's handbook/underseat label (or dealer mechanics legal advice) - reason being, independent tyre fitters advise the optimum pressures for the tyres they fit with respect to the local climate and riding conditions. Tassie does have a lot of corners! :D.

I know an advanced riding instructor who runs 36/36 on his road bike - BB is 254kg wet, stock trim...... the licenced instructor was riding a ZX1200R with 36f 36r (and he had no chicken strips showing). His bike was about the same weight give or take some performance parts. BB is no FJR1300 etc at around 300kg or Gold Wing/Harley at 400kg.

Also, the tyres we buy now are different to the ones we had available 15-20yrs ago that were specified in the handbook. Different compounds, more silica, different construction, dual heat treated zones, etc etc.

Years ago we had quite a group of BB riders..... and the ex club racer guys ran their Dunlops at 32psi cold set. They were way faster than me...... 190klicks and they were still pulling away...... too much for me :eek:... we have speed camera's everywhere up here.... and I don't care who's faster.

Go with the flow, you tried and liked 40/40 better than 42/42, so why not try 38/40, then for fun, 36/38. You will quickly know what you like, for your tyre choice and climate and riding style etc.... Just be sure your tyre gauge is truthful and keep in mind pressure is different from day to day due to fluctuating ambient temps..... just to make it as dark an art as setting up fully adjustable suspension......:LOL:.;)

(y)

I have a tyre pressure monitoring system on my KTM (and 3 gauges that agree with each other) that displays the pressure, which can be 5 psi higher than the cold set pressure on a 30C day riding at 110kph (offficer) for hours....... so my KTM is set at 34f 36r cold, but while riding, can be running 37-39f 39-42r ...... all normal.
 

·
Cougar
Joined
·
53 Posts
Nato you want the shock to rebound as quickly as possible without bouncing. That way the wheel can react to road variations as quickly as possible IE dips and holes. Unfortunately the rear shock on the BB has only one adjuster. So what you do to one side effects the other. Here is a tip I was given for rebound. Compress the rear suspension as far as your able. Then release it and watch it's reaction. What your looking for is a slight amount of overshoot. Turn the adjuster to a softer setting. It can be a bit hard to detect, your looking for a bit of bounce. Once you see this turn the adjustment back the other direction until it stops. That should be about the ideal setting for rebound.
I like watching DMT on YouTube (David Moss Tuning - the video guy), he explains suspension tuning quite well, with good explication on what is happening, it’s effects and what to do to improve it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Quality posts men. Thanks. It's 8 degress celsius in Tasmania and the roads are cold and icy in some corners. 40/40 feels even too high at the moment so I'll run tests like David Moss's video suggests. I do find the Blackbird a challenging bike to ride with stock suspension and high tyre pressures. This state is all corners so the bike needs to change to suit. All sugestions warmly received and considered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Horses for courses I guess and obviously it also depends on rider weight/outside temperature/suspension setup etc ;)
I used to run my Bird on 41 f&r for years as it would handle like a barge and I would spin up the rear under power if I went below 38 but since getting the Wilbers rear shock I'm running about 39 cold but I'm also ~145kg's :rolleyes:
Also it can get quite hot her in West Oz and make it worse :(
 
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
Top