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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I decided to go ahead and purchase the MotionPro kit and give my throttle bodies a go. This was interesting. The instructions advise to cut the hose to equal lengths, place the restrictors in the hoses using the calibration manifold and calibrate to the non adjustable flow which is intake three on our FI bikes. Set all of the calibration adjustments at the bottom of the gauge to full ccw to start. Hooked everything up to tb3 and set all of the levels equal. Syncpro sends you four adapters to put into place. Two are long and two are short. Haven't figured out why yet. I installed the adapters, which are 5mm, to the intake positions and started the bike. After letting her run for a while I started to tweak everything to the third cylinder, I realized that as I balanced things I had to adjust my idle to 1100 +/- 50 after every second or third adjust. The first cylinder was high and the fourth was low. I took my time and got them all balanced. I use my laptop with my Power Commander software to monitor the rpms. I could really tell it was starting to have an effect. I let it run for quite few minutes and then brought it up to 3k then 4.5 k slowly to see how they looked at semi cruising speed. The levels stayed consistent. I got to a point where I was satisfied with checking and double checking. The adjust nuts are 7mm. Disassembled everything and removed the adapters. Put on a pair of gloves to put the screws back in (heat). Buttoned everything up. It is easy to do and I will be checking again in about a month after a few long runs. I've added some pictures but I got a little involved and forgot to photograph everything. Hope this helps someone else. I got the Motion pro from Duners ATV for $79. Now that I have been through the process I would rather do it and know than pay a shop and take their word for it.The first picutre is the calibrated unit with the last being the final result.

Here's the link:
Motion Pro - SyncPRO Carb Tuner
 
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Re: Throttle Body sync

Was there a problem with the throttle bodies, or were you just curious?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Re: Throttle Body sync

I have been chasing an uneven idle and wanted to check them. I haven't had a chance to take her out for a road test yet. I was surprised at how much adjustment I had to do to even them out though so I feel it was worth it. It started out as a 10k mi check. I'd just like to do a seat of the pants and see how she's running now. As soon as I can I'll report back. I'm trying to fit a dyno tune into the budget. I'm looking at about $225-250 at the Ducati shop. Have to wait for now though. //sm
 
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Re: Throttle Body sync

You're in the Atlanta area, have a look here and maybe make an appointment with Dyno Dave: Precision Cycle Works Motorcycle Service Carb Tuning Engine Building Dyno Testing Chrome Plating
770-761-9800

The standard air/fuel metered run is $55.00 until there is repeatability on the horsepower curve, and a custom map is $250.00, no limit on runs. The goal being maximum power and maximum torque at the best rpm range.

Dave is a mechanical engineer and has been at this for decades. Ask him about the double engined Triumph he built in the 60s when he lived in Arizona. A funny story.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Throttle Body sync

Thanks X1, I'll look into it and start budgeting. Having slips ons and and PC really needs a dyno to tune it to get the most benefit. Maybe tax refund will make it happen. // smurf
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Throttle Body sync

I think I figured out the different lengths of the adapters. Cylinder three and four are relatively easy to get to with 1 & 2 being more difficult due to plumbing, wax unit, vacum lines, other. Next time I'll try using the longer ones for 1 & 2 and the shorter ones for three and four. Will advise. // sm
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Re: Throttle Body sync

Ride report: I noticed the difference before I got out of my subdivision. The bike is running a lot smoother and feels a lot tighter. As the third owner of this machine, I thought it would be a good idea to get a baseline and I'm a little surprised at how much adjustment was needed. The procedure is not difficult and the cost of the test equipment pays for itself after the first use. All vacuum lines can be attached with the tank raised, not removed. General consensus here is that it isn't necessary but someone obviously tweaked mine. Feels like a totally different bike. And it looks like the tax man is going to get me to the dyno. :D r// sm
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: Throttle Body sync

I finally managed to get to re-syncing my TBs after my fuel filter change. I have to remember not to fill up right before I come home. Makes raising the tank a little easier. As some of you may remember, I did this a few months back but did not realized my fuel filter was partially clogged. I also changed out my FPR during this maintenance phase but did not test between the two functions so I have no data that shows the results of each individual component. Having done this before I wanted to work with this for a while so I really took my time. With the weather I wasn’t going anywhere. I set up the vacuum tubes with TB 3, which is our reference, to calibrate the manometer and set the fluid levels after allowing the bike to warm up a little. I had already put the brass extensions in place. A tip before doing this is putting a towel or rag under each TB to catch dropped components / screws/ tools. Makes things easier. I also suggest getting a set of mm nut drivers. Putting together a 7mm driver to adjust sometimes comes apart on you and can be a little unnerving. I also recommend a little WD 40 on the adjustment screws.

After attaching the brass adapters that come with the MP tool, two long, two short, I hooked up the hoses to each cylinder and let the bike warm up thoroughly. I made initial adjustments. These operate / adjust in pairs. So I first balanced 3 and 4 then brought two in line with 3/4 then 1. It took a little time. After initial efforts were completed I wanted to take a look at them at the 4k mark. I caught this video on you tube and it made sense so I decided to check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmLwyAPMBLI&feature=related

I used my throttle meister to hold the throttle open and leveled them off. When returning to idle always check that you’re in the 1150 idle range and blip the throttle slightly to allow the linkage to settle. I experimented for a while with this setup. You might want to wear a pair of jeans while doing this also !!! I notice even though I made some adjustments at the 4k mark, the levels were still pretty consistent at idle, unlike the video. It was similar to a fine tuning adjustment, more pronounced at the higher RPM.

A couple of notes:

Motion pro supplies the long and short adapters with their sync tool. They also have an option of leave in place 5 mm adapters that replace the screws and have a rubber boot that blocks them off. First off I had an issue with one of the long adapters. I have a long history with tools and test equipment and when one of the long adapters broke at the screw thread end I was a little doubtful of MP quality. This is the second piece from MP that has broken under normal use. The first being the drive pin from the chain tool that broke when pushing out the pin on the master link on first use. I have ordered and received the optional pieces, just haven’t installed them yet. I knew they were made of brass and was trying to be careful and it still gave out on me. So just be aware. I don’t understand why MP doesn’t supply the optional pieces as standard, less brass.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0411/

I didn’t have any issues with vacuum and the potential for sucking the fluid through the system. Be aware that this may happen and watch deceleration when making your adjustments at higher RPMs.

Overall the bike is finally running as it should. Very smooth and good throttle response. I can’t really think of anything else except maybe a brake line in the rear that is too long and a Penske shock. This month will be a full year of ownership. I may add a project Busa to the garage, but the XX is here to stay.

I have include some pics but the video is very explanatory.
 

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Re: Throttle Body sync

Were they out much the second time around, Steve?

P.S. Is that a spec of dust in the second pic, just under the brass fixture?
 

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Re: Throttle Body sync

Just a side note somewhat related. The carb or throttle body sync is the last thing to do in your tune up schedule...hot on the heels of the valve clearance check and adjustment session. To do this before the valves have been adjusted,..if a valve clearance check and adjustment are on your maintainence schedule,..would be to have done them in the incorrect order. Adjust the valve clearances first (as this will effect carburation/breathing to a degree) then sync the carbs and/or throttle bodies. Nice write up smurf!

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: Throttle Body sync

Were they out much the second time around, Steve?

P.S. Is that a spec of dust in the second pic, just under the brass fixture?

The second picture was the reading at 4k with the last picture job complete. I wanted to check after the filter change as I had adjusted it before and wanted to revisit as I didn not know at the time my filter was clogged.

Not biting on the spec of dust thing..... :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: Throttle Body sync

Just a side note somewhat related. The carb or throttle body sync is the last thing to do in your tune up schedule...hot on the heels of the valve clearance check and adjustment session. To do this before the valves have been adjusted,..if a valve clearance check and adjustment are on your maintenance schedule,..would be to have done them in the incorrect order. Adjust the valve clearances first (as this will effect carbonation/breathing to a degree) then sync the carbs and/or throttle bodies. Nice write up smurf!

Tony

T,

Thanks for the insight. I was still in a maint mode and finishing a long list of tasks that needed checking and verified. I realized the other day I'm about 2k away from a valve check and will see to it that this is part of the process when that is done. // -sm
 

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Re: Throttle Body sync

I ran my XX with a can of SeaFoem in two tank full of fuel prior to throttle sync, if you need an air filter changed/cleaned, do that before your throttle sync also.
 

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Re: Throttle Body sync

The second picture was the reading at 4k with the last picture job complete. I wanted to check after the filter change as I had adjusted it before and wanted to revisit as I didn not know at the time my filter was clogged.
That's really quite remarkable. I wouldn't have thought the filter would have had such an effect on TB sync. I'm looking forward to seeing how much the valve adjustment affects it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Re: Throttle Body sync

I wanted to remind and pass along that I also had changed my fuel regulator along with the fuel filter. There is a thread refd below that sparked my interest in regard to idle. I have the new exhaust and K&N intake and was hearing something new after a good warm up while sitting at a light. First reaction was "now what". I'm pretty picky about how things run so I probably notice things that some don't or don't care about. This elevated the planned sync check and although they align in pairs and operate together, after adjusting them it is about as smooth as it has ever been. I don't have the test set up to verify the effect of the clogged filter or possible faulty FPR to determine impact on individual throttle bodies. Wish I did. The picture is after I had adjusted them at idle. You can tell if the rpms are up with the height of the fluid on the tubes. I never got above 4k in my adjustment. Trying not to upset the neighbors too much. Not sure if this can be misinterpreted for the the clutch rattle observation though, depends on what you're hearing.

http://www.cbrxx.com/engine-airbox-exhaust-fuel-delivery/8584-top-end-knock-2.html#post114551

//
 
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