lus1:
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lus1:
I've installed the HEL line kit to my 1983 CB-1100F back in 06. Very complete kit with nice hardware. On that bike I went with perhaps the same line covering as you Cisco...smoked clear, which comes out looking like carbon fiber in a sense. Attached are a couple of pictures taken during the install which somewhat show off the color. My banjo fittings are gold which work well with the intended application I think. My BB order will follow suit I think. Been meaning to put a order in for some time now. At the time the photo's were taken I was waiting on caliper rebuild kits prior to finishing off the line install. This bike later ended up on the Dragon and covered abour 4200km's trouble free,..which ain't bad for a 25 year old machine.
Tony
Tony
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Cisco,
Just wondering if you can tell if the "Gotcha's" mentioned below were modified by HEL on your new Kit? Warchild mentions that he was in contact with the old HEL vendor and a factory mod was in the works. Did it ever happen?
Tony
Just wondering if you can tell if the "Gotcha's" mentioned below were modified by HEL on your new Kit? Warchild mentions that he was in contact with the old HEL vendor and a factory mod was in the works. Did it ever happen?
Tony
Ran into a few little snags tonight, nothing major, but enough to prevent me from wrapping up the job completely tonight as originally planned.
Here's a brief outline of the install job thus far:
As mentioned above the "10-line" kit actually has 8 physically separate lines; two of them are in two "sections".
Here are OEM lines 1-3 that attach to the left caliper and Secondary Master Cylinder:
View attachment 1700
Here are lines 4-6, which are on the right caliper and delay valve:
View attachment 1701
Here are lines 7-8, which attach to the rear caliper and rear master cylinder (line 7) and Proportional Valve (Line 8):
View attachment 1702
The HEL kit for the Blackbird has two little "gotcha's", both easily overcome.
Gotch'a #1: The steering neck has a raised flange area where the t-block fitting will buttress up against once installed. However, the HEL t-block is slightly wider than the OEM t-block, so you need to dremel off about 1/16" of the flange material to allow the HEL t-block fastener holes to line up so you can thread in the fastener. This problem exists for both the left and right steering neck t-blocks.
Here is a shot of the left steering neck after I shaved off a little of the flange:
View attachment 1703
And here is the t-block after installation. Note I used a new stainless steel button-head fastener (couldn't bring myself to use the old ass-cheese factory pig-iron hex-head bolt.):
View attachment 1704
Gotch'a #2: For some reason, the fastener holes in the the t- blocks (which, as Toynut correctly observed, are made from a single block of billet stainless 303, and are very sweet indeed) have M6 threads tapped into them. This is not what you want to have; none of the equivalent factory t-blocks are threaded. Indeed, you can NOT pass through the stock fasteners because they are "shouldered", and the shouldered part of the fastener shaft will not pass through the t-block. Your options are a) obtain an equivalent fastener that is threaded throughout its shaft length, or b) drill out the hole to allow the passthrough of the stock fastener.
Here is the left caliper with all lines installed finger tight. At this point, I had to go find a new fastener to retain the two stainless steel HEL t-blocks you see at the top of this photo (that connect to two cross-over metal (hard) lines:
View attachment 1705
Finally, here is the left caliper with all lines in place, and t-blocks fastened down, and metal hard lines attached:
View attachment 1706
And the same for the right caliper:
View attachment 1707
Tomorrow night (7 Mar 07), I'll install the last two lines on the rear caliper, and start the always-fun hydraulic fluid re-fill and bleeding exercise....
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