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Discussion Starter #1
Here's an odd one - after a winter sitting outside under a cover (sadly I don't have the luxury of a garage) I took my scruffy old '98 BB out for the first run of the year last month, and noticed the temperature gauge reading hotter than usual. I checked the rad was hot (it was) and the coolant level was OK, so I put it down to getting stuck in traffic.

More recently I took it out again and suddenly the gauge needle went almost vertical off the scale :eek: I rode it home gently, but the engine didn't seem any hotter than usual and no coolant was leaking out so I suspected the gauge was lying.

After a couple of hours of head scratching I eventually traced the problem to the temperature gauge connections at the back of the instrument cluster. Corrosion between the gauge fixing screws and the copper strips was causing a higher resistance and fooling the gauge. Cleaning the screws and washers with contact cleaner and a glass fibre brush was all that was needed, and now the gauge is back to normal. Hopefully a dose of anti-corrosion spray will stop it recurring next year.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm not sure if later injected bikes with the digi dash could suffer the same problem. It could equally have been one of the other dials affected (eg fuel level) I suppose.
 

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I've just bought my first Blackbird and have got the same problem at the moment. It's a 2000 injection model with dials. The gauge was showing cold at all times and having carried out various tests, I needed to replace the coolant sender which I have done. Now the gauge steadily rises and goes off the scale within about 4 mins from total cold start, fan cuts in eventually as it should and coolant levels are fine. I've heard people mention problems with damp/corrosion behind the dash and so am currently looking into it. The fuel gauge also seems faulty on mine, showing a full tank at all times (obviously even when the tank is empty!), any thoughts ar similarities?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It sounds like the same problem. If you remove the screen you can get to the back of the instrument cluster and you should see the gauge fixing screws. I even bought new gauges (the fuel and temp gauges are on a common bracket, and I got some on Ebay) because I thought it was faulty, but it was just a bad connection. The fact that your fuel gauge also shows a full tank all the time is consistent with poor connections. The good news is that it shouldn't cost much to fix, I just used contact cleaner spray and a glass fibre 'pen' brush to clean things up. So far the gauges are still OK, although the clock keeps stopping whenever the ignition is off now.
 

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I'm in the process of draining and removing the tank so I can remove and check the fuel sender and then start to clean all dash terminals and build it back up again. Thanks for the reply, will let you know how things go.
 

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Had the same issues but found that some of the plastic printed board had corroded and there was no voltage going to the meters. put in new link wires that were soldered to the board (yes it does solder very well) and problem solved. You just need a decent volt/test meter.
 
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