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i lost my key and bought a new ignition and tank key set.

i've changed the ignition barrel with no problem, but i'm having trouble getting the tank lock off as i dont have the key. how do i get it off?
 

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Not tried it but::

Can you not undo the whole assembly from the top of the tank by removing the bolts holding it on and then release the lacth from the inside??

What about your seat lock?
 

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Am I correct in assuming that your Bird is a carbie ..... no big hole in the bottom of the tank and no HISS?
 

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I am thinking form my locksmith schools training (very long time ago) you need the original key. The tumblers work 2 ways, they key the lock and also hold the tumbler in place. So without it your going to have to drill out the tumbler set. But don't quote me on that. I have an old cap on a tank out in the garage and i haven't closed it down because of that. I'll be taking a closer look this weekend.
 

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Try a narrow blade in the lock. I managed to open mine with a scissor blade and a wiggle once I seem to remember, when it was really seized and I didn't want to break my key.
 

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Late to the game but may have info to help. I think I read somewhere that the key code is printed/stamped in two locations on the bike. One location is the ignition switch/barrel area. The other is the underside of the gas cap lid. I just checked my gas cap lid and sure enough there is a code stamped into the lower rectangular boss cast into the extreme lower section of the lid. The code will most likely include a two numerical digits followed by a letter. NOTE: These code numbers/letter are very very small. I used a black "Sharpie" marker to hi-lite them so I could read them,..that's how small they are.

I also looked at the means to release the gas cap should you unbolt the socket head hold downs from above, which are exposed to the world. The design is such that the cap actually grips the fuel tanks metal fuel tank snout/lip. Even having removed the socket head screws (3 short, 3 long) you may not have enough space (if any) to work at releasing the two spring loaded tabs that effectively lock and hold the cap closed. This is a best guess on my part.

Also attached here, from the archives, is a couple pages related to ignition switch barrel removal. I have not re-read this but I think I remember that the key is required to enable the barrel to be removed. The key code may be on the barrel..or on the outside of the ignition assembly,.I'm not sure which. I have a complete key/lock set I purchased in case of ignition switch failure but do not have it easy to hand to check on this info sorry.

Attached is a picture of where the key code is located on the underside of the gas cap. I'd suggest that all those that do not know their key codes to take a couple minutes to find this location and log the numbers somewhere for safe keeping. I just made note of my CBR-1000RR/R codes.( I smudged out my code in the picture btw).

If you can remove the ignition switch and take it to a lock smith they may be able to find the code and produce a key from this. I feel you pain here as I also went done this path after having my original key broken in two (it got run over by a car or six, don't ask how). We did manage to make a key from the broken remains and then had a new set cut from the code.

HTH

T.
 

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Something of a follow on to The Ducks comment about access from the underside of the tank. Attached is a picture of the holes in a 98 carbureted fuel tank. Not sure how much acces you might need. There are two lips on the fuel cap area. As noted in my post above..the "primary lip" (my term for it) is the one closest to the outside world when the cap is open, is a solid contiguous circular ring which offers no access to the two locking tabs of the gas cap. The next lip, which hides below the primary lip, has four openings in it at the 12"o'clock, three o'clock, six o'clock, and nine o'clock positions. These openings/slots in the circular ring may allow a tool access to attempt to disengage the two cap spring loaded locking tabs from the under side. No idea if this is possible given the offset of the fuel level sending unit hole on the bottom as compared to the caps central location.

It may be best to attempt to recover the key code off the ignition barrel you removed.

T.
 

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Just checked and confirmed what Tony mentions. I'll swing by a local locksmith and see about a key for the cap I have here. I did this same thing for a Honda I had years ago so I can attest to it working. Once I verify it for this cap I'll let you all know.
 

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I bought a spare tank not long ago with the locked cap / no key issue. One of my technicians has a background in the locksmith industry and my plan was to have him attempt to break and enter with one of his sets of key picking tools. This issue will prompt me to speed up the process and figure out which pick will work. I will keep the forum posted on the results. If successful , I am perplexed on how this information should be shared for security purposes..
 

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Just the location not the codes should suffice rollie
 

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Something of a follow on to The Ducks comment about access from the underside of the tank. Attached is a picture of the holes in a 98 carbureted fuel tank. Not sure how much acces you might need. ........
It may be best to attempt to recover the key code off the ignition barrel you removed.

T.
Nicely picked up there 'T', I was hoping the OP would be able to confirm carbie or inj because yes access from the bottom should be possible with an inj tank but not so easy with a carbie ....... but if it is an inj the OP is in Liverpool and so HISS becomes an issue, a whole new can of worms!
 

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Ok
Just checked with a local locksmith the code on the cap doesn't cross to any Honda key numbers.
 

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There's no Honda dealers here anymore:(
 
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