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Discussion Starter #1
So I've spent the last two days wiring up my new gauge cluster I got from the u.k (I'm in California) gauge came off a 99/2000 fi bird. it didnt match any diagrams I had for it so I played trial and error. Finally got the gauge to work with the exception of the tachometer. All the idiot lights work as well as temp gauge, fuel gauge and the speedometer (but the speedo is off +5~10 mph). any ideas what to try for the tach? From what I was seeing all the gauges are on the same power and ground circuit in the gauge just with different signal wires. I checked the wire for the tach with a volt meter and it had 11 volts when the kill switch was in the on position but 0 volts when in the off position. Is that normal?
 

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So I've spent the last two days wiring up my new gauge cluster I got from the u.k (I'm in California) gauge came off a 99/2000 fi bird. it didnt match any diagrams I had for it so I played trial and error. Finally got the gauge to work with the exception of the tachometer. All the idiot lights work as well as temp gauge, fuel gauge and the speedometer (but the speedo is off +5~10 mph). any ideas what to try for the tach? From what I was seeing all the gauges are on the same power and ground circuit in the gauge just with different signal wires. I checked the wire for the tach with a volt meter and it had 11 volts when the kill switch was in the on position but 0 volts when in the off position. Is that normal?
Does the gauge set you bought have a HISS light as shown in the pic? Being a California bike you have no HISS?
This maybe where you are getting an issue
129712
Bees will probably be along soon. That's his area of expertise.
 

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What year is the bike your trying to fit it too. Other than hiss the wiring they should be the same. And as for the Hiss that wiring is not available anywhere as it's a security feature. So there is no information on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What year is the bike your trying to fit it too. Other than hiss the wiring they should be the same. And as for the Hiss that wiring is not available anywhere as it's a security feature. So there is no information on it.
Trying to fit it to a 97, what's confusing me is that the wiring diagram shows the other gauges on the same power and ground circuit and they all work. That's what's causing me to believe it's an isolated issue with tach.
 

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Trying to fit it to a 97, what's confusing me is that the wiring diagram shows the other gauges on the same power and ground circuit and they all work. That's what's causing me to believe it's an isolated issue with tach.
Ok so it's good your staying in the same Generation. So given this the wiring as you state should be one for one. It should be a plug and play for all intentions. My first suggestion would be to get a wiring diagram from one of our overseas or Canadian buddies. Then compare them to the US version. The speedometer error is most likely do to it's probably reading in Kilometers. That one your stuck woth unless you get a speedo healer. Then I'm still not sure how it's going to read because the algorithm they use.
The tach is going to take a wire to wire check with the 2 diagrams to make sure they are the same to start. Then your going to have to walk through the troubleshooting section in the factory manual to narrow it down. Hopefully 2 things are happening here. 1st that you don't have the correct hookups. 2nd you haven't shorted the driver to ground and cooked the circuit in the ECM.
The speedo pulse coming up from the sensor is a 5 volt peak to peak square wave at a rate of 80,000 pulses per mile.

Here is the Troubleshooting form the factory manual

TACHOMETER INSPECTION Remove the upper cowl (page 2-11). Check for loose or poor contact terminals of the combination meter. Connect the peak voltage adaptor to the tachometer Black/Yellow terminal and ground. TOOLS: Peak voltage tester (U.S.A only) or Peak voltage adapter 07HGJ-0020100 with Commercially available digital multimeter (impedance 10 M Q /DCV minimum) CONNECTION: Yellow/Green (+) and Ground (-) Start the engine and measure the tachometer input voltage. PEAK VOLTAGE: 10.5 V minimum If the value is normal, replace the tachometer. If the measured value is below 10.5 V, replace the ignition control module (lCM) . PEAK VOLTAGE ADAPTOR 19-12 LIGHTS/METERS/SWITCHES If the value is 0 V, perform the following: Remove the seat (page 2-2) and disconnect the ICM multi-connector. Check for continuity between the tachometer terminal and the ICM multi-connector Yellow/ Green terminals. If there is no continuity, check the wire harness for an open circuit. If there is continuity, replace the tachometer unit. For tachometer replacement, see 19-8; combination meter disassembly and assembly.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so it's good your staying in the same Generation. So given this the wiring as you state should be one for one. It should be a plug and play for all intentions. My first suggestion would be to get a wiring diagram from one of our overseas or Canadian buddies. Then compare them to the US version. The speedometer error is most likely do to it's probably reading in Kilometers. That one your stuck woth unless you get a speedo healer. Then I'm still not sure how it's going to read because the algorithm they use.
The tach is going to take a wire to wire check with the 2 diagrams to make sure they are the same to start. Then your going to have to walk through the troubleshooting section in the factory manual to narrow it down. Hopefully 2 things are happening here. 1st that you don't have the correct hookups. 2nd you haven't shorted the driver to ground and cooked the circuit in the ECM.
The speedo pulse coming up from the sensor is a 5 volt peak to peak square wave at a rate of 80,000 pulses per mile.

Here is the Troubleshooting form the factory manual

TACHOMETER INSPECTION Remove the upper cowl (page 2-11). Check for loose or poor contact terminals of the combination meter. Connect the peak voltage adaptor to the tachometer Black/Yellow terminal and ground. TOOLS: Peak voltage tester (U.S.A only) or Peak voltage adapter 07HGJ-0020100 with Commercially available digital multimeter (impedance 10 M Q /DCV minimum) CONNECTION: Yellow/Green (+) and Ground (-) Start the engine and measure the tachometer input voltage. PEAK VOLTAGE: 10.5 V minimum If the value is normal, replace the tachometer. If the measured value is below 10.5 V, replace the ignition control module (lCM) . PEAK VOLTAGE ADAPTOR 19-12 LIGHTS/METERS/SWITCHES If the value is 0 V, perform the following: Remove the seat (page 2-2) and disconnect the ICM multi-connector. Check for continuity between the tachometer terminal and the ICM multi-connector Yellow/ Green terminals. If there is no continuity, check the wire harness for an open circuit. If there is continuity, replace the tachometer unit. For tachometer replacement, see 19-8; combination meter disassembly and assembly.
Damn ok, that's really helpful! Now I can go and actually check it out. I appreciate it!
 

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Your very welcome. Let us know what you find and if you need more help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Your very welcome. Let us know what you find and if you need more help.
So I pulled the gauge back off and I was checking voltage, with the connector unplugged the yellow/green wire has 11~12volts once I plug it in to the gauge it goes down to 0.80volts.
 

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Sounds like you've got a short in the gauge. Could you verify the wiring is correct coming into the gauges with the schematic. I'd hold off any more plugging in untill. Then you don't want to pop the driver. Where in cali are you?
 

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Do you still have your old tacho from your old cluster?

I've three clusters (one on bike, two being played with as prototypes re various projects) and have swapped out various individual gauges/ parts to get the working combo I wanted. If there is a diff between UK efi tacho (e.g. input signal) and US carbie that may at least demo it (assuming your old tacho is still in working order)?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like you've got a short in the gauge. Could you verify the wiring is correct coming into the gauges with the schematic. I'd hold off any more plugging in untill. Then you don't want to pop the driver. Where in cali are you?
I'm located in San Diego. The problem I ran into is that the schematics didnt match how the gauge actually is set up..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you still have your old tacho from your old cluster?

I've three clusters (one on bike, two being played with as prototypes re various projects) and have swapped out various individual gauges/ parts to get the working combo I wanted. If there is a diff between UK efi tacho (e.g. input signal) and US carbie that may at least demo it (assuming your old tacho is still in working order)?
The bike was missing the original cluster when I picked it up, that's why I got one from the uk. Alot cheaper there then it is here stateside. I wish I could have gotten a carbed gauge cluselter but I took what I could given the circumstances.
 

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Hmmm...I don't recall any inquiries about a gauge cluster. Maybe I'm not checking the forum enough.
 

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The bike was missing the original cluster when I picked it up, that's why I got one from the uk. Alot cheaper there then it is here stateside. I wish I could have gotten a carbed gauge cluselter but I took what I could given the circumstances.
It should be a simple wire swap if you have both wiring diagrams. Any other attempt could very well lead to damage. The second and biggest issue your facing is the HISS system. Because it is a security system it isn't documented anywhere. And without that you have know way of knowing how it interacts. I'd keep that cluster for parts and see what Ixxion has. Yes it bites that you bought the cluster and can't get it to function 100%. But trying to figure it out further risks backfeeding something and taking out the ECU.
 

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Yes i do. Is your gauge cover in good shape?

Analog gauges are all the same in north Amerca, the only difference is the carb has a yellow S lense and the fuelie has a red FI lense.
 

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It should be a simple wire swap if you have both wiring diagrams. Any other attempt could very well lead to damage. The second and biggest issue your facing is the HISS system. Because it is a security system it isn't documented anywhere. And without that you have know way of knowing how it interacts. I'd keep that cluster for parts and see what Ixxion has. Yes it bites that you bought the cluster and can't get it to function 100%. But trying to figure it out further risks backfeeding something and taking out the ECU.
The HISS led on the tacho is just an additional standard red led that takes a separate 5v supply direct from the ECU. It has separate wires on the harness and in no way electrically connected to the tacho. Since ur bike is a US spec it will not have the 5v supply for the HISS led
 
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