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Dear BB users. Like me, many of you have charging woes. This has fixed them. I got tot he point of cutting my losses and selling the thing and this has encouraged me not to do that. Huge thanks to Pete for helping...

Parts:

Reg Rec and with wiring it (Jack’s)
Stator (West Country Windings)
Stator cover gasket
Reg Rec Bracket (Baking tray and 10mm Alu stock)

















Kit:
Allen keys (4mm, 5mm, 6mm)
¼” Ratchet
¼” Extension
¼” drive Sockets (8mm, 10mm)
¼” Torque Wrench (12ft/lb)
Crimper
Scalpel
Drill
Tinsnips
Wire cutters
Needlenose Pliers
Drill
Drill bits
Centre punch
Hammer
M6 Bolts
M6 washers x4
M6 Nylock Nuts x2
Heatshrink of various sizes
Heat Gun
Zip Ties
Silicone Sealant
Loctite
Washing up liquid
Cereal Box
PH2 Screwdriver
Wooden Block

Method:
1) Greet Pete, clear area for deck chair, drink coffee made for us.




2) Remove side fairing (5mm, 6mm, poppers). The trick to this is to undo all of the bolts and poppers but the top middle one, this holds it steady and stops it bending, breaking or hitting the floor. Keep bolts in a pile or a separate container.







3) Remove tail fairing (5mm, 6mm). When all bolts are out, remove handle first, then gently pull tail up and back, pulling the sides apart gently for clearance. Store out of the way. Keep bolts in a pile or a separate container.



4) On a piece of cardboard cut from a cereal box, recreate the pattern of the stator bolts, marking each location with a cross cut with the scalpel.
5) Begin to undo the stator cover bolts (8mm ¼” drive socket, ¼” ratchet, ¼” extension). Crack them all off first then go about removing them. Place each bolt into the corresponding hole on the cardboard. Mark the top with a grubby thumb.
6) Firmly grab the stator cover, rock it a bit and it will come away.
7) Snip the three yellow stator wires with the wirecutters.
8) Sit on deck chair and undo 4x 5mm allen bolts to remove redundant up stator ring.











9) With scalpel, gently remove any silicone residue from U-shaped trough into which the 2x rubber grommets for the stator wires slot into.
10) Remove old grommets from old wires by placing in hot water and pulling each wire out with pliers.





11) If not brittle, patiently rethread grommets onto new stator wires using washing up liquid as lube. Be sure the pattern matches on both grommets, no twists between the two.





12) Using 8mm socket, remove the old reg rec. Retain the two bolts, discard the reg rec.





13) Use a piece of paper and a grubby thumb to make a ‘rubbing’ (think primary school, crayons and tree bark) of the bracket already there to take the stator. The new one won’t fit and needs a bracket fabricating.



14) From a piece of baking tray, using tin snips, cut a square big enough to cover the existing bracket and the size of the new RR. Refine any sharp edges with the bench grinder.



15) Using your new grubby thumb rubbing, centre punch, hammer and drill the 2x 6.5mm holes That will allow the piece of baking tray to attach to the old bracket.



16) Hold the new RR on with zipties and check the tail fairing clears it.





17) Mark the baking tray by scratching it with the punch as you have the RR in place.
18) Remove baking tray, mark, punch and drill 2x 6.5mm holes. This marks the location of your RR and the 10mm block of alu you will make to keep it proud of the original boltheads.
19) Place the new stator ring into the cover and secure the 4 bolts with a bit of Loctite and a 5mm allen key.
20) With a bit of black silicone as glue, push the little grommets into the u-shaped trough.
21) With little dabs of silicone, secure the new gasket to the cover, the little dowels also help this to seal.
22) You get one shot at this and is all clamps together magnetically so get it right and mind your fingers.
23) Remove the bolts from your cereal box template and get them finger tight.
24) Torque them to 12nm with the 8mm socket and your torque wrench. Pete advises to work in a diagonal pattern and I make brackets from baking trays. Do it Pete’s way.
25) Undo 2x bolts holding tank and lift it up. Prop it with a piece of wood to make cable routing easier.



26) Route the cables up to a place they can reasonably make friends with the new RR making sure you sleeve them in black rubber.
27) Get the pluggy bit of the kit with 3 yellow wires protruding and slip a bit of heat shrink over it (big enough to cover the connectors you are about to crimp).
28) Doing one, then the next then the last, shove the stripped ends into the connector and crimp with crimping pliers.



29) Slide the heat shrink over and begin using a lighter to shrink it. Resolve to use Pete’s Danger-Lux 5000 hairdryer later.



30) Go to Pete’s house to fabricate a 10mm thick bracket from aluminium which puts my baking tray to shame.
31) Marvel as Pete overtakes a slow car in his slow van.
32) Make the bracket and return home (thanks Pete).







33) Use the hairdryer to heatshrink the connectors.





34) Using 8mm socket, attach the baking tray bracket to the old RR mounting.
35) Slip bolts (M6, 30mm long, washers and nylocks) through RR and through new spacer.



36) Attach the RR spacer combo to the bracket and tighten.
37) Clip plugs into RR and route the cables where you can, attaching the red and black wires to the battery terminals.



38) Secure the wires wherever you can to make them look neat and to allow the seat to go on.
39) Check it works.



40) Fit the fairings (reverse of removal).



41) Rejoice.
 

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Great write up Fred. The baking tray saga? Heard about it :rotfl:. Nice to see Duck on the mill, unusual :rolleyes:. There's a set of those rubber sealing washers for you at Ducks along with an angled one :rolleyes:. That a Bahco 1/4 drive ratchet i spy? Got three of those sets. Bike, garage and van. Good pieces of kit.
Your troubles are now over.
 

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If you find the grommets are hard mix Up a solution of 1 part wintergreen oil 3 parts rubbing alcohol. Soak the parts for about 1 to 2 hours and the rubber will restore back to flexibility. If they don't then soak them longer until they do.
 

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Great write up, just awaiting my RR to clear through customs :)
Mine arrived yesterday having cleared customs. Daily Bird is currently charging perfectly but with a big trip across Europe coming up and my service records showing I have covered 23K miles since I last had problems I'm getting twitchy! I'm going to pull the charging system and replace it, that should save me from having to carry a spare stator, reg rec, gasket and gas soldering iron on my travels!
 

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I've been averaging 22,000 thousand out of the ones I've gotten from Rick's. So your probably about right Duck.
Now the quandary starts ......

Pulled the stator to start a preemptive stator/reg/rec change expecting to see a blackened stator after 23K miles.
What I have found is what looks like a stator that has covered less than 100 miles! The only discoloration is on the 3 yellows that are brown with the engine oil.
Hmmmm, to change the stator to a new one that could fail at any time or leave the stator alone since all the figures are perfect?

IMG_2121.JPG
 

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Now the quandary starts ......

Pulled the stator to start a preemptive stator/reg/rec change expecting to see a blackened stator after 23K miles.
What I have found is what looks like a stator that has covered less than 100 miles! The only discoloration is on the 3 yellows that are brown with the engine oil.
Hmmmm, to change the stator to a new one that could fail at any time or leave the stator alone since all the figures are perfect?

View attachment 118823
Bit of a dilemma there Duck,
It just looks to good to swapout, Coin toss?
 

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Ok
In this case carry the spare if it ain't broke don't fix it. Especially considering how that one looks. You sure your looking at the right odometer or have the right numbers for your change out from before.
 

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Yesterday I decided that the stator stays (and the spare comes with me) glad others have taken the same view, it was a real quandary when I pulled the cover. Yes the mileage is correct which was why I was feeling really guilty when Foeux was having so many issues, I helped fix his bike 3 times (or was it 4!) and all the time mine was working fine.

What I think I will do today is replace the reg/rec. I have one of Jack's here (FH020AA) and again whilst the existing one is working fine (JAWS 'with Mosfet technology') the current one wires to the loom (as standard) removing this weakness here has to be sensible with a 20 year old loom.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I do indeed use Bahco and it's ace stuff. FREDPROOF.

Pete, I hope I am not just cursed but yours looks perfect....
 

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…. Pete, I hope I am not just cursed ....
Nah no such thing, I had a spell where Daily Bird was eating stators and reg/recs, I even had one go down hours before I was due to be on a ferry to France. I'm a great believer in the 'sh.t happens' theory. :rolleyes:
 

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Since I'm a brand new BB owner and found practically a brand new BB: Is this problem occurring on every BB or only on 1 of every 10 or maybe those that ride in rain continually? BTW, all my bikes after every commute goes on Smart Chargers until the next ride. I typically get eight years out of my batteries.
 

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As I found out on my 1998 Fireblade, the flat metal surface of the regulator that is bolted onto any other metal surface ( frame, bracket) should have a coating of heat sink compound applied before being bolted on.

This will ensure a good thermal path for the heat generated in the regulator to dissipate to the other metal and lower the operating temperature of the regulator/rectifier.

This does not seem to be applied at the factory and I would recommend that all rectifier/regulators have the heat sink compound applied including the factory fitted ones.
 

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G'day Josephweitzel.......

My BB is an 05 model with the bigger wires and heavy duty sized RR standard..... I've had it since new (2005) and have 130,000kms up. The alternator coil failed at 73,000kms but I had that rewound with slightly heavier wire by a local (Aus) coil winding specialist - my RR has never failed.

However....... and the guys on here are way more expert than I am......... I change my batteries as soon as the Cold Cranking Voltage' drops to 9.5v....... so I am suspecting all you snow country riders using battery chargers are using your batteries for too long, thus causing the RR's to overheat......... Note, a Cold Cranking Volt test must be done after leaving your battery 'off' the charger for 12hrs. Then monitor the voltmeter as you first start the BB and if the volts are below 9.5 the battery is no good.

I think being on a charger makes the battery read like it is very healthy when it really is only accepting a partial charge and showing 12v etc....... not an accurate measure of it's real capacity........ typically, (when i was using my BB everyday) I would get 2yrs and a couple of months out of an AGM battery....... mostly chinese made sealed ones, but Yuasa's didn't last much longer (3yrs max).

There is an article in the tech section, dated back in 2006 or so, explaining how Alt's & RR's work....... good read!

So no, my RR has never been hurt by a low battery and I got away with the alternator fail without any other damage. Unfortunately my body was not as robust as my BB.... I eventually succumbed to a blocked artery and had to have heart bypass surgery....... (better than the other option :die:..... :nono:)..... but it has meant I may not be able to stretch out across my lovelly BB again...... luckily my 1290SDGT is an easy reach to the bars :thumb: so it's not all bad news .

PS :welcome: to the forum.

PPs to the OP...... great job...... top idea adding a heat sink to the RR........ also, Maccullagh's tip for heatsink paste :clap:
 

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Nice post Aussie Dave, good to see youve made a recovery I did a similar thing with my SH847 reg/rec from roadstercycle.com. A big 4mm ali mounting plate behind it.
20181210_162435.jpg
 
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