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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lost all charging on bike and replaced stator and rectifier with one from Rick's. It's an FI stator because I need more for extra electronics I have on bike. Have checked voltage at connectors and all looks good but can't get it to battery. Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated.
 

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The wire with the arrow W/Bl goes to a 12V switched power source. New unit may have a different connector than stock?. Follow the wiring diagram. It will go to one of the fuses.
 

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Just looked at ricks website, can confirm it is a 5 wire unit as shown by CBRDEAN0 above. What is state of battery? If is is dead or a dud, then it will suck in all available juice from charging system.
 

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Have tried both and stator is charging g to ug but not to battery. Any ideas?
Just to be clear.

What AC voltage are you measuring between the yellow wires from the stator ( not connected to the R/R ) when the bike is at 4000rpm ?

With RR connected and hooked up to battery.
What is your battery voltage with the ignition OFF ?

What is your battery voltage with the engine running ?

Have you wired directly from the R/R to the battery ( via a fuse ) - or did you go back through the bike loom ?
 

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If its in the budget, get your R/R at Jack's Home (roadstercycle.com) . Best bet for the money " The Super Mosfet Kit FH020AA ". There are cheaper options, such as a used FH012AA or FHA020AA unit from a Yamaha R1, also some triumphs and others, found on Ebay or breakers yards.

As stated above, what is the stator output AC voltage ALL 3 WAYS?
 

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What charging upgrade are you referring to?
This is where the output from the R/R is fed directly to the battery without going thru the loom.
The negative output wire (might be 2 wires, combine this into one fat wire) goes direct to the negative battery terminal.
The positive output wire (also might be 2) goes thru a 30A fuse then direct to the positive battery terminal.
The unused loom connector is taped up. All circuits will be back fed anyway.

Real upgrade is to do the above using an FH020AA, FH012AA or SH847 genuine mosfet R/R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is where the output from the R/R is fed directly to the battery without going thru the loom.
The negative output wire (might be 2 wires, combine this into one fat wire) goes direct to the negative battery terminal.
The positive output wire (also might be 2) goes thru a 30A fuse then direct to the positive battery terminal.
The unused loom connector is taped up. All circuits will be back fed anyway.

Real upgrade is to do the above using an FH020AA, FH012AA or SH847 genuine mosfet R/R.
I will definitely do that since it's part anyway. But below is the R/R that came with the new stator I ordered. Will it be OK or should I seek out the one yall are referring to?
 

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Generally, you get what you pay for. Click on the link I inserted in post #8 above for pricing the genuine article, or used on ebay (almost as much by the time you purchase the connectors) and compare to cost of motogenic unit.
You may get lucky and get good service from this unit.
Definitely wire it direct and also install a small voltmeter on the dash. 14.5V max means R/R is ok. Over 15V (watch for spikes to 16V+) and you will eventually (soon) fry the electrics.

Good luck, let us know how it all works out.
 

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Lost all charging on bike and replaced stator and rectifier with one from Rick's. It's an FI stator because I need more for extra electronics I have on bike. Have checked voltage at connectors and all looks good but can't get it to battery. Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated.
Make sure your rectifier is well grounded or you could have big issues.
 
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