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Discussion Starter #61
Do this into the dead cylinders while running to confirm if it is a fuelling problem. Otherwise, it may be a spark issue.
I checked all four cylinders have spark. Pulled the plugs and got spark when grounded to the engine.

Pulled the fuel rail and took out one injector so far. Need to get some stuff to hook up the spray cleaner and power supply to open and blow the cleaner through, not enough hands right now.

I am disappointed though because the injectors look clean to me, but this is the first injector I have seen so no bases for that judgement.
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I did answer my question, the o-rings and seals seem un-prone to damage.... so far anyway.
 

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They can look clean on the outside and be gummed up internally. See if you can get some of this it'll clear anything I've ever come across. Just keep it away from plastics and the orings.
131278
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Update #3? I think...

Cleaned the injector, cleaned the fuel rail, put everything back together, and the bike fired right up and sounded nice and smooth. Clean steady idle that leveled off around 1,100 RPM. It is amazing what a difference 4 cylinders makes over 1 cylinder.

I was so happy.....

Next step let it warm up and get the thermostat to open and circulate the coolant so I can drain and refill with new coolant. I let it idle for about 10 to 15 minutes and the temp gage went up but the radiator fan didn’t come on. I don’t remember at what point the fan should come on but it got up to here
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without the fan coming on.

So I started testing the items per the manual, that went on for a while, the bike cooled down while it wasn’t running, so I started it again to get it ”warmed up” again. It started fine and was idling so nice, for about 5 minutes, then it stopped. Like the kill switch was hit, but obviously it wasn’t. The bike won’t restart.....

Back to square two....... o_O

Any thoughts on what to check?
 

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Is the pump cycling?
 

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Based on pic of temp gauge, fan should kick on long before it reaches that level. I believe the ECU shuts down the engine once it reaches a certain temperature. You may have triggered this. I have to imagine that once she cools down, a restart is possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Based on pic of temp gauge, fan should kick on long before it reaches that level. I believe the ECU shuts down the engine once it reaches a certain temperature. You may have triggered this. I have to imagine that once she cools down, a restart is possible.
Actually when the picture was taken I shut the bike off myself, with the key. Then I spent 30 or 40 minutes testing items related to fan operation per the manual. Engine got cool, started it again to warm it up. Ran for about 3 to 5 minutes and then it shut down on its own while the temp gage was mid range.

Tired restarting in again this morning, no go. The pump does cycle, to your question Beestoys, with the key and the kill switch. Everything in the cranking is normal, just missing the last “firing up” part.

This evening I am going to check the “Engine Stop Relay” if you remember last week I convinced myself it was bad, but then convince my self it wasn’t bad. The homemade testing jumper wire was loose, so it went from not working under test to working under test. Maybe it is bad and just went out again.

I have very little hope the “Engine Stop Relay” is the issue, but got nothing to lose.

Now I know this is not in the least possibly related, but after it went dead yesterday I figured I needed to clean up the garage and get things better positioned, so I went to push the bike into a better place.

God, it was damn near impossible to push, I was seated on it and duck walking it, but boy it took a LOT of force. It was not like this earlier in the day when I moved it out of the garage. Like the brakes where dragging significantly but not completely. But I don’t hear the sound of rotors being dragged through tight brake pads, that kind of high pitched scrapey sound. I did use the brakes while moving before, so maybe the Calipers are kinda suck out some.... The tires had proper pressure at this point (42 psi).

But correct me if I am wrong but this couldn’t be related to the engine just stopping?
 

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If engine stop relay fix fails.................

Give the cam sensor wires at connector a tug to make sure it is fully seated in. Disconnect and take a close look for any mean greenies. Low voltage on hall sensors can cause weird-ass sh!t.
1. Test the specs on this piece (above) + wiring.
2. Check condition of all wires + connectors. Also carefully check all wires where they attach to the 2 large ECU connectors. Wires can break there, especially if the ECU is not (was not) tied down.
3. Loom fix

If you put a hand on a brake caliper, you should be able to wiggle it, then grab the brake, it should lock up, release brake, wiggle again.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Well this was easier than it should have been..... Engine Stop Relay is fine......

eBay fuel pump is crap.... not really surprised, but still disappointed.
DF9323FD-72F8-4F8F-97D7-38D044E63546.jpeg

That white line in the picture is the hose fiber that blew out through the hole in the hose. So it is actually the fuel pump hose that is crap, obviously they didn’t supply submersible fuel hose. The hose is soft and squishy now. It lasted all of 7 days in fuel and 20 minutes of pressure.

Also the only reason I removed the tank and fuel pump again was because the tank gasket had puckered up and was leaking...... I had torqued the fuel bracket nuts to the spec‘ed torque.

So needless to say my trust in the pump itself is low, but Honda doesn’t sell the pump anymore. Does anybody know of a US vendor of a quality pump? I can get hoses and tank gasket from Partzilla but no pump. Or is there a VFR pump or some other bike that is the same?
 

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dug
I'd probably trust the pump. The fuel line mistake is actually pretty common. Alot of vendors don't realize that lines act a whole lot different when submerged. I'd put that pup back in with the factory line part's and you should be good.
 
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Discussion Starter #70
dug
I'd probably trust the pump. The fuel line mistake is actually pretty common. Alot of vendors don't realize that lines act a whole lot different when submerged. I'd put that pup back in with the factory line part's and you should be good.
Yeah, been searching around and no better alternatives pop up. Couple of used assemblies on eBay, actual entire assemblies, from part salvagers with good reputations and feedback, one is in Houston TX, as am I. But always get nervous buying 20 year old parts and new aftermarket pumps all seem as questionable as any other. Google did not reveal a “yeah these guys make a great pump” from God himself type review.

Would God ride a CBR1100XX? :rolleyes: I see him more as a Rune type rider..... Maybe a Valkyrie....
 

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Yeah, been searching around and no better alternatives pop up. Couple of used assemblies on eBay, actual entire assemblies, from part salvagers with good reputations and feedback, one is in Houston TX, as am I. But always get nervous buying 20 year old parts and new aftermarket pumps all seem as questionable as any other. Google did not reveal a “yeah these guys make a great pump” from God himself type review.

Would God ride a CBR1100XX? :rolleyes: I see him more as a Rune type rider..... Maybe a Valkyrie....
Like this one my friend owned

131310
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Yeah, I can’t figure out why, I have never had any interest in cruiser type bikes, just not for me, but boy the Rune is such a beautiful bike to me. Maybe it is the increasing age thing going on....

You say your friend “owned”... did he sell it? Obviously people do sell them, but I can’t help but wonder why? Just curious.
 

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He unfortunately passed and the executor of his estate gave it to one of his sons. It's now residing in illinois.
 
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