[Thior]

So i donunderstand its cold...but im in the states so its 35f. I developed a have to hit the starter button 10 times ...listening to it click..and it them might turn over. It does this more frequently when cold but it will do after a 30 min ride also

Besides the check connections...any ifeas? Can i clean the starter somehow?

 

[macka20]

check your battery terminals are tight. check standing voltage is at least 12.6v and running voltage at least 14v then check the power cable to the starter motor is tight iv seen loose terminals make those symptoms

 

[Aussie Dave]

G'day Thior,

Yep, that's cold...... 35F is approx 2C so Brrrrrrr .

If the starter just clicks and doesn't turn the motor over it's likely the battery is 'd (errr, dead) or it could be the starter button contacts - a spray clean with WD40 etc could be the solution.

A good battery should read 13v across the terminals with a fully charged new battery, 12.3 with ign on, and 11v while cranking, then 14.2v at 1500+ rpms .

A failing battery might start the bike and let you ride for 30mins, but since it won't accept full charge from the alternator, it may be flat when you try to restart after a stop. A worn down battery will read <9.5v cranking B4 startup.

Most AGM/Pb Acid batteries only last 2-3 yrs with daily starting duties...... then they become depleted and have only about half the charging capacity they had when new.

There could be a problem elsewhere...... the alternator might be faulty, or the regulator rectifier may have been damaged.

The only reliable test for a battery is a 'cold cranking' load test......... this is best done 12 hrs after the battery is disconnected from a charger and left to rest just connected to bike terminals. At 1st start next morning (hence the term 'cold' start - nothing to do with 35F cold temps), watch the voltmeter as you crank the motor over....... it should read above 9.5v for a good battery, or under 9v for a failing battery. The 12 hr rest period from charging is crucial to get an accurate load test result.

Phew, that turned into a essay and a half....... hope it helps, if it hasn't put you to sleep........

 

[iXXion]

So i donunderstand its cold...but im in the states so its 35f. I developed a have to hit the starter button 10 times ...listening to it click..and it them might turn over. It does this more frequently when cold but it will do after a 30 min ride also

I think you're in a warm state, at least I got that impression, which makes me think you're not used to this cold snap you're having.

That clicking is the solenoid being activated, after which there's not enough current (oomph from your battery) to run anything else. Your battery has a bench profile of around 50% of normal capacity at 0C than at room temperature. A battery has a steady decline in maximum capacity as it ages. Your battery may only function at 25% of its original power at room temperature. Now that it is cold, its about worthless.

Why can you keep pushing the starter and eventually it can work? As you open (actually close) a big circuit with lots of demand, the battery tries to meet that demand. Electrical flow, if you will, creates heat, not just in wires but in the battery itself, and that heat might be just enough to improve the battery output to the point where it will spin the engine. You said your bike is carbed, if you had the added draw of fuel injection, it would never start with that battery.

Stop trying to start it. Get a new fully charged battery. You can damage the electronics with what you're doing and I don't want to sell you a gauge cluster.

Then, because your bike has problems after a 30 minute ride, check your stator output at the battery by measuring the voltage when the bike is switched off, then again when it is running. You may have a damaged regulator, stator, or connection plug that will lead to over or undercharging the battery, both of which will ruin it.

I'd normally say the first step is to charge your existing battery, but your complaint didn't include the usual "I just got a new battery and now this..." that is the more standard situation.

 

[Thior]

I think you're in a warm state, at least I got that impression, which makes me think you're not used to this cold snap you're having.

That clicking is the solenoid being activated, after which there's not enough current (oomph from your battery) to run anything else. Your battery has a bench profile of around 50% of normal capacity at 0C than at room temperature. A battery has a steady decline in maximum capacity as it ages. Your battery may only function at 25% of its original power at room temperature. Now that it is cold, its about worthless.

Why can you keep pushing the starter and eventually it can work? As you open (actually close) a big circuit with lots of demand, the battery tries to meet that demand. Electrical flow, if you will, creates heat, not just in wires but in the battery itself, and that heat might be just enough to improve the battery output to the point where it will spin the engine. You said your bike is carbed, if you had the added draw of fuel injection, it would never start with that battery.

Stop trying to start it. Get a new fully charged battery. You can damage the electronics with what you're doing and I don't want to sell you a gauge cluster.

Then, because your bike has problems after a 30 minute ride, check your stator output at the battery by measuring the voltage when the bike is switched off, then again when it is running. You may have a damaged regulator, stator, or connection plug that will lead to over or undercharging the battery, both of which will ruin it.

I'd normally say the first step is to charge your existing battery, but your complaint didn't include the usual "I just got a new battery and now this..." that is the more standard situation.

Ty for such a response. I have a 12 battery where my 955i took a 14. It wasv3 cyl tho.

I did tighten the wires on battery and starter. The Pos was not loose but not tight either. Anyways, it eeems corrected.

Ty for all the other info

 

[Aussie Dave]

I'm not sure which part of the USA you're in, but most states are copping an icy blast, so that may have an effect on an older battery or a '12' rated battery. I use a YTX14 battery on my Bird (actually I recycle my 2yo batteries from the KTM - when I buy a new one for the V2, I put the still good but on the way out '14' into the Honda.

Honda would have put 12 rated batteries in 20yrs ago because that's all that was available or they were minimum spec....... all our bike shops and battery specialist stores recommend 14 rated batteries regardless of how many cylinders the engine has .... and they are right.

PS I don't think you can buy this "SSB" brand over your side of the pond (it seems tobe an Aussie only make/import), but any YTZ14S battery would be better than a YTZ12S........ especially in freezing temps (assuming the bikes charging system checks out ok).

 

[Thior]

I believe im going to get the 14 yuasa