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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
It was tucked in behind the front drive sprocket and the engine. Look in the picture and one end is resting on the clutch push rod and the other end was rubbing on the sprocket

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Thanks Tigre...do you clean everything just before you take pictures!? :)

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I could not make out the other end on the rod...to much muck in there:puke::hss:
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I could not make out the other end on the rod...to much muck in there:puke::hss:
Well, I ain't no Tigre!

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
All that's required now is a nice shiny stainless clamp for that 'zorst :thumb:
Yes, I have looked into that already. $25 for a set. On the list!

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Now with an RK breaker/press kit with Instructions! Two links just in case...I should be able to do this. Try, try again! Walked in from a 13 hour day and was excited to see this. Now for reading the instructions and going forth to conquer! 20170323_183318.jpg 20170323_183635.jpg

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Check your manufacturers recommended flair for your master link. Don't shoot for the higher measurement, that's when you can damage the master link. You don't need to be in the higher range, it doesn't need a big flair...so the lower #s will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Check your manufacturers recommended flair for your master link. Don't shoot for the higher measurement, that's when you can damage the master link. You don't need to be in the higher range, it doesn't need a big flair...so the lower #s will be fine.
I have the Honda manual. I was going to go to the middle of the range. Will check the DID Gold recommendations! Thanks.

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i have the same chain, DID... 0.217"-0.228" on a 530 chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
i have the same chain, DID... 0.217"-0.228" on a 530 chain.
Yep, the Honda shop manual states that DID is exactly that.

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Wow, with the right tool doing the master rivet link was easy! One rivet measures. .222 and the other is .223. Read the instructions and watched a 5 minute video greased the threads and went to work. Easy!
One more question. I put moly grease on the splines of the front sprocket and torqued it to 40 ft/lbs. Should I have put some blue loctite on the bolt? Didn't look like there was any on it from the factory. 20170323_222850.jpg 20170323_222817.jpg
And this is $10 wasted due to trying to go with a cheap harbor freight tool and a week of down time waiting for the RK tool. I like HF for a lot of things but not this time. 20170323_223050.jpg

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Hey with the new chain on and adjusted this is the result! My motion pro tool shows that the chain and sprocket are aligned. The factory notches are the same. I even measured from the center of the pivot bolt on the front of the swing arm to the same point on the axle (both sides) I expected it to be back by the black adjustment line by the word new.
This seem right?


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I got a sprocket that has a life time guaranteed and a 16k tensile strength chain, had it for over a year and no problems --- but if your going to buy oem for your bike change your sprocket when you replace your chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I got a sprocket that has a life time guaranteed and a 16k tensile strength chain, had it for over a year and no problems --- but if your going to buy oem for your bike change your sprocket when you replace your chain.
What are the brands of chain and sprocket?

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
So I was thinking about why a new chain is so close to the "need to change chain" line. Is it because I ordered a back sprocket with 44 teeth instead of 45? If so...should I take a link out? It's a 110 link chain.

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So I was thinking about why a new chain is so close to the "need to change chain" line. Is it because I ordered a back sprocket with 44 teeth instead of 45? If so...should I take a link out? It's a 110 link chain.

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Goodquestion as I have the same exact setup
 
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