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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
A hard 9k, I'm sure I'll get 30plus. The chain and sprockets still new. I ordered the yellow chain with the gear set. If its cash flow problem for ya i have a almost new rear steel sunstar i could send.
I will find out how much a sprox stealth is. Going to the Chicago MC show tomorrow. It's going to hurt the wallet more than usual! Going to be buying helmets and SENA20S'S for the wife and two of the kids and jackets. She wants to go on a whole family MC trip out to Glacier NP and maybe drive through Yellowstone too in later June. Getting bikes and gear ready early.
Total of 5 bikes as one daughter is in Honduras for another year and the married daughter cannot get off of work.

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Changing the original chain at 13,800 miles. Thought my sprockets were good. Not sure now after breaking the chain. What do you guys think? Don't want to wear out my new DID sooner than later. View attachment 82770 View attachment 82778 View attachment 82786 View attachment 82794

Look at this pin I drove out. Rust on the inside. I use Maxima Chain Wax. Just put on my Auto Oiler.
View attachment 82802 View attachment 82810

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If you like you might be able to compare your old sprockets with my used and new sprockets as shown below.: I've include a shot of the SuperSprox unit that is installed to my Dymag rear wheel. The XX will look similar allow it will (of course) have a Honda bolt pattern. My Dymags run a Kawasaki rear sprocket bolt pattern. Related words on the sprocket change out and some pictures are located here:

http://www.cbrxx.com/riding-gear-lu...eedo-tuner-calibration-device.html#post224265

Everybody's got an opinion on chain lube and maintenance practices. I'll not bore you with mine other than to say the following. I believe that a chain oiling system of some sort (I use a Scott Oiler. Their simple gravity feed system, not the electronic version) seems to stretch the usable life span of a chain and sprocket set out to almost unbelievable miles. I do clean the chain once or twice during the season also.

T.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Ok...I was going to get a Supersprox rear and a JT rubber front. Couldn't find a 45 supersprox so I changed direction and just ordered the Ognibene silent sprockets front and rear. 17 front - 44 rear. I believe that will raise my rpms a little but that should be better for the lower end speeds of this machine that I use daily. I don't plan on seeing upper triple digits. I do like 40 mpg at USA hwy cruising speeds though. I expect mpg to go down a little. I just want to get this bike together so I can ride it in a month. I am hoping for an early spring here. It has been a mild winter here in the MidWest during the last half of winter. That could change but one can always hope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yep, from 2.65 to 2.59, thanks for the correction.

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Supersrox for me rear 44t and front JT 17t , .milage somewhere around 25k so far , still looking brand new and expecting more than 50k.
The OEMs are good too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I thought I would try these and report back about them otherwise JT front and sprox rear.
So I hope I get what you guys are getting out of your Sprox!
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Well my Ognibene silent sprockets came in today. Will go out and put everything on tomorrow night. 20170227_192201.jpg

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So I finally got some time and removed the front sprocket. Very dirty in there. Used an impact to remove the front sprocket bolt. Easy to do that way. Then I came across a surprise that none of you have ever mentioned. What is this rubber tube? Does it have a function? I am going to take it out. It isn't connected to anything.
https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58cc50afc1b5f/20170317_160952.mp4


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Yep that there tube ain't sposed to be there. It's na breather tube that should be pointing down outside of the cover on the back side. Also when you put the new front sprocket on pack the splines with moly grease it'll keep that red powder from forming. That's red dust caused by the 2 hardened surfaces ( output shaft, sprocket ) riding against each other dry.
 
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Yep that there tube ain't sposed to be there. It's na breather tube that should be pointing down outside of the cover on the back side.
I've never found one of those breather tubes in there before, so that is a 'First' to you XXGUY ... plastic bags, bits of wood, cow muck yes, breather tube never ...... ..... it probably should be connected to a 'T' piece that splits the breathers so have a look for the missing hose there, it should be higher up and behind the block if the other end is disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I've never found one of those breather tubes in there before, so that is a 'First' to you XXGUY ... plastic bags, bits of wood, cow muck yes, breather tube never ...... ..... it probably should be connected to a 'T' piece that splits the breathers so have a look for the missing hose there, it should be higher up and behind the block if the other end is disconnected.
Yay a First! That's hard to do on this forum. I also ruined the master link due to a cheap inferior Harbor Freight tool. So as I was grumping about it in the kitchen later...my wife said "is it repairable?" Yes..."then order the part and fix it. No harm no foul."
So, like a good husband I followed orders and ordered two and an RK tool also. Hopefully I will have it by Wednesday. In the mean time I will take the chain off, front sprocket off and pack the splines with Molybdenum Grease and reinstall.
So anybody who needs a chain done on a trip or anything else this summer give me a shout! I can put you up too.

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I guess you now know to replace the sprockets now. When you get your new sprockets then you can compare the shape of the roller pocket against used and know why you need to replace. An oiler isn't going to do a whole lot imo. The rusted pin means the O rings on the chain are worn and have failed and let water in. At that point the chain needs replaced. Keeping grit off the chain is more important than soaking it with oil which collects grit which wears the O rings. The chains are internally lubed and the O rings job is to just to keep water out. These sprockets look interesting. Quiet sprockets. I may just buy a pair next time or sooner.

USA bikes came with 17-45 the rest of the world was 17-44. Take your pick.

Ognibene Silent Sprockets - Bike Torque Racing

Well the Ognibene came in and are on. I have done been educated by looking at the new ones and comparing them to the old one's. I see said the blind man to the deaf person!

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So I finally got some time and removed the front sprocket. Very dirty in there. Used an impact to remove the front sprocket bolt. Easy to do that way. Then I came across a surprise that none of you have ever mentioned. What is this rubber tube? Does it have a function? I am going to take it out. It isn't connected to anything.
https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58cc50afc1b5f/20170317_160952.mp4


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Although it might be considered a breather tube of a sort, I suggest that it is most likely the "filler cap overflow drain line" given it's diameter. The vent line with the tee fitting mentioned is of a smaller diameter hose material make up then what is shown in the picture, I think.

I think the parts fiche calls this stuff out as being 3.5mm and 4.5mm I.D. hose for fuel tank vent line service. The "filler cap overflow drain line" is of 8mm I.D. make up, which fits the larger nipple from the filler cap area.

In my attachment below I have the filler cap drain line labeled as "D" and the fuel tank vent line (with the tee fitting) shown as "E". These attach to the underside of the tank at the same letter locations shown in the underside picture of the tank/petcock area.

The filler cap drain line is normally directed toward the pavement somewhat trapped between the back of the engine/transmission cases and the front edge of the swing-arm at the pivot location, offset so as not to dump directly in front of the rear tire.

If the tank is removed it is possible for that drain hose to be mis-directed to a location near the chain and get dragged into the countershaft sprocket area, although it most certainly is the first time I've seen this like the rest of you. At a guess, I'd think the tube might more often get snagged by the wheel/chain and simply get expelled over board never to be seen again.



Some other semi related pictures are located here:
http://www.cbrxx.com/introductions/30402-1997-right-side-carb-open-vacuum.html#post415113

T.
 

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So I finally got some time and removed the front sprocket. Very dirty in there. Used an impact to remove the front sprocket bolt. Easy to do that way. Then I came across a surprise that none of you have ever mentioned. What is this rubber tube? Does it have a function? I am going to take it out. It isn't connected to anything.
https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58cc50afc1b5f/20170317_160952.mp4


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Question, If the top end of that hose is connected to the outside as a vent or drain hose, how in the hell did the sprocket cover fit back on to the housing?
 

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...........


The filler cap drain line is normally directed toward the pavement somewhat trapped between the back of the engine/transmission cases and the front edge of the swing-arm at the pivot location, offset so as not to dump directly in front of the rear tire. ......................




.

That hose was never meant to go between the CS cover and the crankcase. As you say, "There is no way to get the cover on if you did it that way."

There is no hose behind my CS cover.


T.
 

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