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Discussion Starter #1
the one in the bike's putting out far less than the 50'ish volts it should @ 5k rpm. i received this from an ebay seller yesterday;

128829
 

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Pt
How far off 50 is it. If it's not down much I'd run it and order one from Ricks motorsports electric. I'd keep the China and run it when the one you have finally fails. Are you running a meter if not I'd recommend the Koso Mini 3. It can give you both volts and amps with the touch of the front panel button. That way you can monitor voltage real time and if you see it falling off then switch to amps to verify your loosing your stator or charging system IE R/R
 

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Bees, he says voltage is far less than 50. I would not continue to run it like that. ptxyz, you have a high chance of being left stranded as your stator is on its last legs and it will stress out the battery possibly taking that out too. Press the ebay unit into service until you can upgrade the entire charging system with a ricks rotor combined with a genuine mosfet R/R? Funds permitting.
+1 on the voltmeter.
 

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That is very true fizz. But what some consider a lot may not be that bad. If it's 5 down that's not that bad even up to 10 is workable if he can't swap it out right now. But agree with using the China if it's more than that till the new one shows.
 

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Pt
How far off 50 is it. If it's not down much I'd run it and order one from Ricks motorsports electric. I'd keep the China and run it when the one you have finally fails. Are you running a meter if not I'd recommend the Koso Mini 3. It can give you both volts and amps with the touch of the front panel button. That way you can monitor voltage real time and if you see it falling off then switch to amps to verify your loosing your stator or charging system IE R/R
Bees, can you explain about when you switch to amps on the koso. How would the ampmeter display the problems with stator or r/rr? Would one be high and other low?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i was getting about 10-15 volts with the bike running. rpm's didn't make any difference.

noticed my starter was sounding a bit slow. display for my onboard voltmeter went out. got home and it was just over 12v running. diode test on 2 rectifiers checked out.
 

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i was getting about 10-15 volts with the bike running. rpm's didn't make any difference.

noticed my starter was sounding a bit slow. display for my onboard voltmeter went out. got home and it was just over 12v running. diode test on 2 rectifiers checked out.
Yep that critters toast
 

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ptxyz, looking at the pic you posted, is that a chunk of green paint/coating missing off the top?
 

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Yep that critters toast
PB
Yes what can happen is your voltages could be low 14's high 13's because the battery is still carrying a good surface charge. But when you switch to Amps on the Koso you'll see a high amp draw meaning there's no current going back into the battery. My BB typically sees about 11 Amos key on not running. So that is my system load. Now mind you I have everything converted to LED's. With the series regulator I'm running (one of Jack's) I'm typically running a negative 3 Amps. That's a result of the series R/R shutting down current flow to the system and unloading the stator. My system voltage is still at 14.7 when running. So the R/R is still putting a trickle into the system to keep it above 14.5 vdc. When you get the meter installed with a good battery fully charged. Take note of your running amps rate. Then if you see a drop in your line voltage then you will switch over to amps and check your current value. Anything above your running number would indicate you're not recharging.
Does that help?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ptxyz, looking at the pic you posted, is that a chunk of green paint/coating missing off the top?
having done this job recently on my klr, i'm assuming that chip is on the side that's closest to the outside of the motor (note the position of the wires).

i've asked the seller if they want a return now or if they think this won't be an issue, i'll try installing it.
 

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having done this job recently on my klr, i'm assuming that chip is on the side that's closest to the outside of the motor (note the position of the wires).

i've asked the seller if they want a return now or if they think this won't be an issue, i'll try installing it.
If a chip already fell off, then more may follow during use. These chips will now be inside the engine as oil flows in thru this area. Looks like powder coating or similar? I recommend you send back for credit and replace with one from rick's motorsports electrics.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If a chip already fell off, then more may follow during use. These chips will now be inside the engine as oil flows in thru this area. Looks like powder coating or similar? I recommend you send back for credit and replace with one from rick's motorsports electrics.
not visible from this angle is that area being slightly bent, as if it suffered an impact. good point about the oil contamination though.

while the seller's already agreed to take it back if it doesn't work, i don't think i want to chance it.

i appreciate all the comments!
 

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not visible from this angle is that area being slightly bent, as if it suffered an impact. good point about the oil contamination though.

while the seller's already agreed to take it back if it doesn't work, i don't think i want to chance it.

i appreciate all the comments!
Good call and I agree with Fizzy. Send it back if it's bent that pole could suffer a induction loss. The whole metal piece is part of the induction coil those ears included.
 
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