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SH847 Series Regulator/Rectifier Install

21K views 43 replies 15 participants last post by  beestoys 
#1 ·
I recently installed the SH847 series R/R on my 2001 Blackbird and I'll share the findings here. It doesn't look like anyone else on this forum has installed it yet so I guess I'm the first brave soul to try it out. TLDR version: the install was very straightforward.

I purchased the SH847 from Roadstercycle.com based on the positive reviews on this forum. The older SH775 was no longer available and I specifically wanted a series R/R so I got the SH847. My bike only has 8.6K miles and the electrical system is still in good health. I wanted a series R/R to help preserve the stator, prevent a future failure, and keep the bike running cooler since it gets hot around here in Georgia.

The SH847 housing is about the same width as stock, but about 0.5" taller and even more so with the electrical plugs on top. The mounting holes are also about 1" wider than the stock R/R. Despite this, the SH847 will still fit on the bike and no modification was needed to refit the tail fairing. I reused the rearmost screw and frame mounting hole to mount the left side of the R/R. For the right side, with the plug in place, the RR fits snugly against the frame and plastic undertail. I used a ZIP tie on the right to tie the R/R against the frame. With this mounting, the R/R does not move at all.

The 3 stator wires from the R/R were spliced to the stock harness using the connectors and heatshrink provided by Roadstercycles. The positive and ground were connected directly to the battery. Extra wires from the stock harness were taped up. Voltage across the battery was 12.8V with the bike off and 14.3V with the bike engine turned on at idle.

Tip: disconnect the battery terminals before installing. I forgot to do this and accidentally shorted the positive and negative wires to the stock R/R when cutting the harness. I basically blew the main fuse. With a couple of minutes of searching this forum, I was able to find the 30amp main fuse next to the starter relay and replaced to get the bike running again.

I haven't had a chance to take the bike out on a ride yet, but will this weekend. I'm hoping to see a significant decrease in bike operating temperature and with the beefier R/R, I might look to run heated gear when the weather turns colder.





 
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#5 ·
As I understand it, the stator generates heat when electrical current runs through the wires and is oil cooled. A series R/R shuts off the flow of current from the stator when the system is fully charged. This is different from the stock R/R and MOSFET type shunt R/R where current from the stator is always allowed to flow, but is discharged to ground. With less current flowing from the stator, less heat is generated -> preserve the health of the stator and the bike should run cooler.
 
#9 ·
I'm going to say no. I recently fitted an FH020AA on the left side. Not a lot of extra space with the lifting handle in the way. SH847 is bigger. Why not install on right side? You are going to abandon wiring harness plug anyway, and go straight to battery. Wire from stator can be rerouted, should reach.

I am happy with the FH020AA, it runs very cool and voltage is dead stable at 14.1, but for an extra $50 the SH847 is apparently the ultimate.
 

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#8 ·
Well known issue on the Suzuki GS range of motorcycles also. We've been fitting series R/Rs for many years in those machines either SH775 or Compufire 55406 (IIRC). The difference you'll see will be in the operating oil temperature. The GS range is air cooled and those that have done the upgrade and have oil temperature gauges fitted have noted around 30 degrees cooler oil temps. Can't verify that myself, I don't have any temp gauges on my machines.
Having said that, I suspect you won't see any difference in operating engine temperature with the bird, I would think that'll be controlled more by the cooling system and thermostat.
As mentioned, either way, less heat is dissipated via the stator into the oil which should prolong it's service life. Never seemed like a great idea to use the stator as a heating element to waste excess power to me but what do I know? I've never had to replace one on any of my machines after doing the upgrade.
 
#10 ·
Thank you, i will look into it when the time comes. I have a 2000 xxy and it seems a bit of a hybrid in some ways. Other 2000's i think have the r/r kn on the right.
 
#11 ·
Pbz
I installed one in my sons 03. But opted to remove the factory extension harness and put it on the same side as the earlier versions. It will fit but it's tight, ill get some pics up tonight of the instal on this thread. I think I have pics on another here. I made a new mounting bracket from 20 gauge steel to tip it and get a little more room. The reason is that R/R runs hotter than the shunt regulators because it ia now the load for the charging system dump instead of the stator. That's why the bikes oil temp drops along with the stators longer life. I also moved it to that side to to facilitate mounting the remote resevior for the ohlins shock. Instead of having it set in the tray under the seat. (Wasn't the best place in my opinion)
 
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#12 ·
Pictures as mentioned Pbz. One thing it doesn't really show is that the bracket actually stands off from the frame a bit, It actually tips the bottom of the R/R letting it fit inside the rear fairing a little better.

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#32 ·
… One thing it doesn't really show is that the bracket actually stands off from the frame a bit, It actually tips the bottom of the R/R letting it fit inside the rear fairing a little better.

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Hi Bee,

I'm gonna take the plunge and get the SH847 from Jack. I see you mounted your son's on the LHS (where I'll be doing mine on my '97 in it's original location).

It's great help having your template. Quick double check on cable lengths. I can see there's plenty of DC length in Jack's kit. How about the three yelliw stator leads? Kit says 12". Did you find that good enough, too long (though heck that's easy to cut) or too short (so I ought to ask/ order longer)? Granted you worked on an '03 on LHS not RHS so I'm assuming reaching the stator on my '97 from the LHS is the same reach/ length you needed.

Cheers Mallow1
 
#14 ·
Took the Blackbird out for a quick 45 min ride this weekend and everything is running well. No noticeable drop in operating temperature either - I was too overly optimistic. Either way hope this keeps the any electrical gremlins from popping up.
 
#21 ·
#28 · (Edited)
Was a pdf then took a pic and attached it to the post I can't send pics to message recipient's on the board. Check the thread I posted it there as well. You'll have to open it from here and then make the template to the drawing specs.
 
#33 ·
Mallow, correct me if I'm wrong, but does the output from a carbi stator goes thru 2 connectors before reaching the R/R, compared to 1 connector for the FI? Never had a carbi, so going from memory, seem to remember it coming up before. Could change the wire length.?
 
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