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"I wound the CCT back up in situ and let it spring back then gave a half a turn to tighten it further "

This is not what I mean at all. Remove the CCT from the machine, take it apart into its smallest components, then reassemble putting 12 turns on the clock spring instead of the 10 it came with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
"I wound the CCT back up in situ and let it spring back then gave a half a turn to tighten it further "

This is not what I mean at all. Remove the CCT from the machine, take it apart into its smallest components, then reassemble putting 12 turns on the clock spring instead of the 10 it came with.
I fitted a manual CCT to my old motor 14 years ago - I was just using the Honda CCT yesterday to see if the chain was causing any noise - I couldn't get access to my old motor and transfer the manual CCT as it was Sunday and the workshop was closed, I intend to install the manual CCT as soon as I remove it from my old motor, I also have a lot of parts I want to remove from the old engine as well but will do that over the coming week

I don't live in my home country anymore where I had my own garage workshop and tools etc - I have to rely on other people doing major work for me - I do lend a hand lol
 

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I wound the CCT back up in situ and let it spring back then gave a half a turn to tighten it further but the vibration was intense on the screwdriver - very difficult to even hold it, I don't remember it ever being like that.
The one thing this motor has going for it is it is not lacking in power - 20-30% up on my old engine but that alone doesn't mean the crank is good
Yes it can be that rough especially if the throttle bodies are out of synch
 

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Damittt....did anyone figure out what it was. Mine has a hell of a racket about 3500 when throttle up.

Has new oem cct. Its done it since I've had it..been along time since I rode bikes so I don't have anything to go by....but it doesn't really blow me away with power.

It's not getting worse, I generally don't push past 5g but I've had rpm up to 8 couple times. Been riding 3 months as my daily ride and hasn't blown up.

I do notice that the boots from carb to air cleaner suck ass...don't connect perfectly.

I thought it wasy Yoshi shorties that made the noise but no....

It's embarrassing as hell...sounds like a POS....
 

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Thior
So it passes the idle rpm up test from 3000 3500 ish to 4000 to 4500 ish no rattle test?
You also state when you throttle up from 3500. Are you pinning it wide open or just rolling into it.
Reason I ask is you could be experiencing pinging/engine knock. If your rolling in it hard at that rpm. Especially if it's in the upper gears say 3rd and up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Damittt....did anyone figure out what it was. Mine has a hell of a racket about 3500 when throttle up.

Has new oem cct. Its done it since I've had it..been along time since I rode bikes so I don't have anything to go by....but it doesn't really blow me away with power.




It's not getting worse, I generally don't push past 5g but I've had rpm up to 8 couple times. Been riding 3 months as my daily ride and hasn't blown up.

I do notice that the boots from carb to air cleaner suck ass...don't connect perfectly.

I thought it wasy Yoshi shorties that made the noise but no....

It's embarrassing as hell...sounds like a POS....
Mine was a rod bearing and sounds exactly like your symptoms - on the way to the shop to get a new engine fitted travelling at about 30mph the engine seized half a mile from the shop

I have no idea why it happened but I suspect putting 20w50 oil in on my last oil change was what caused it, the only thing I have done differently in my 15 years of ownership - why did I put thicker oil in - I don't know and it ended up costing me - the replacement engine is not that great either - it is much stronger and very obviously more power but it is making some uncomfortable noises that I don't like, not the same noises as my original failing engine but worrying and I can't quite figure out what it is - I have driven it hard for a few hundred miles and it is still strong but I am worried, very hard to pin down exactly what is noisy on this replacement engine

I have stopped thinking about it - it just goes and performs - I hope it doesn't let go on a corner
 

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Mine was a rod bearing and sounds exactly like your symptoms - on the way to the shop to get a new engine fitted travelling at about 30mph the engine seized half a mile from the shop

I have no idea why it happened but I suspect putting 20w50 oil in on my last oil change was what caused it, the only thing I have done differently in my 15 years of ownership - why did I put thicker oil in - I don't know and it ended up costing me - the replacement engine is not that great either - it is much stronger and very obviously more power but it is making some uncomfortable noises that I don't like, not the same noises as my original failing engine but worrying and I can't quite figure out what it is - I have driven it hard for a few hundred miles and it is still strong but I am worried, very hard to pin down exactly what is noisy on this replacement engine

I have stopped thinking about it - it just goes and performs - I hope it doesn't let go on a corner
Sorry to hear was rod bearing. Right now I have air cleaner off...started it up..no knock. Reved the hell out of her...no knock. It seems only under heavier load and above 3500 rpm. But its loud.

My brother , who is more mechanically inclined by alot was following me one day and said sounded like it was missing.

I do have on #1 cylinder the boot on spark plug was popping off l, mainly due to what I think is end ( I have to have that Buble on end of plug to connect it). Anyways , I made a bracket to keep from popping up. I'm about to order some new (oh shit..forgot what called) spark plug things ....coils lol.

Other than that it's hard to ride under load and tell what it is or even video it
Thior
So it passes the idle rpm up test from 3000 3500 ish to 4000 to 4500 ish no rattle test?
You also state when you throttle up from 3500. Are you pinning it wide open or just rolling into it.
Reason I ask is you could be experiencing pinging/engine knock. If your rolling in it hard at that rpm. Especially if it's in the upper gears say 3rd and up.

It idles great. I can ride easy all day if I just barely gas it. It happens around 3500 rpm. Im 50 so I don't mail it ever. But say I'm riding 30 mph and go to pass a car....then I hear it.

It does have that kind of noise tho.....I didn't think of that. How do I fix that's
 

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Yep betting its pinging. 3500 is a bit low to do a roll on to pass.
Try this for a test find a long flat section of road and simulate the same roll on. Then try the same roll on at 4500 rpm. Bet it'll not ping or as much.
Instead of just rolling on throttle drop a gear first.
Another easy fix would be to step up to mid grade or premium fuel.
Let us know what you find.
 

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I thought it wasy Yoshi shorties that made the noise but no....

It's embarrassing as hell...sounds like a POS....
Just realized something else hear looking at your comment.
1st is this a carbie or FI
2nd of it's a carby then the above statement leads me to think that unless you have done a plug ckeck to verify or have rejetted you may be running lean. Which will make pinging on roll on even easier to do.
 

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Yep betting its pinging. 3500 is a bit low to do a roll on to pass.
Try this for a test find a long flat section of road and simulate the same roll on. Then try the same roll on at 4500 rpm. Bet it'll not ping or as much.
Instead of just rolling on throttle drop a gear first.
Another easy fix would be to step up to mid grade or premium fuel.
Let us know what you find.
This may help....

Notice the rattle that starts as I climb

 

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One more thing....can you manually tighten the cct....I saw a video some guy took out bolt and had tiny screw driver ECT....but its a brand new cct. I would not think bad
 

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98 View attachment 131293 Carbie....don't know if rejett but I have k n filter sticker on top airbox...but don't know if this is [email protected] I heard it could be a problem.
Yep that's a K&N that along with the Yoshi's combined will lean it out. So unless it's been rejetted you've found your problem. You'll want to check inside the fairing infill panels. There are plastic diffusers installed near the airbox intakes. If those are missing your going to see running issues at 6000 rpm and you can develop issues down around where your riding now. IE sluggish pull.
I'd highly recommend pulling the plugs and checking the color. You want a light brown to grey on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Sorry to hear was rod bearing. Right now I have air cleaner off...started it up..no knock. Reved the hell out of her...no knock. It seems only under heavier load and above 3500 rpm. But its loud.

My brother , who is more mechanically inclined by alot was following me one day and said sounded like it was missing.

I do have on #1 cylinder the boot on spark plug was popping off l, mainly due to what I think is end ( I have to have that Buble on end of plug to connect it). Anyways , I made a bracket to keep from popping up. I'm about to order some new (oh shit..forgot what called) spark plug things ....coils lol.

Other than that it's hard to ride under load and tell what it is or even video it



It idles great. I can ride easy all day if I just barely gas it. It happens around 3500 rpm. Im 50 so I don't mail it ever. But say I'm riding 30 mph and go to pass a car....then I hear it.

It does have that kind of noise tho.....I didn't think of that. How do I fix that's
on reflection mine was pretty obvious - I didn't want to believe and was looking for other things as this extensive thread shows

Idle was fine - only on power did the noise become obvious at about 3000k revs, it is a profound low level thumping knock - not a ping and the engine had trouble revving and was severely compromised on power

it is also detectable by blipping the throttle from idle, you will hear a very distinctive low level mechanical mess

my new engine is also noisy but not the same sort of noise


you can test for big end bearing

take out the plugs and manually crank the engine and with a long screwdriver inserted in each cylinder one by one, bring the piston up to the top and let it go down about an inch or so then push the screwdriver down - it should be solid with no movement - if there is movement downwards with the screwdriver then the rod bearing on that cylinder is toast, this is not fool proof because just before the bearing seizes or runs it might tighten up but generally if you have knock due to a rod bearing then there will be a very slight movement when you push the top of the piston down - this is what causes the noise

I do hope it is something else my friend but best to do the about test just to be sure

another obvious test you can do is measure the oil pressure - this will also tell you if you have a bearing problem, the BB should be about 70psi at 4k and drop to about 15-20 at idle

I am looking currently at fitting an oil pressure gauge to my bike so I can see what is going on at all times
 

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One more thing....can you manually tighten the cct....I saw a video some guy took out bolt and had tiny screw driver ECT....but its a brand new cct. I would not think bad
That actually sounds like it's not hitting fully on 1 cylinder.
Yes but I'm not hearing the typical CCT rattle. It has a higher pitched click to it at the rpm ranges I stated above. Also out will present itself at 3 35k and won't stop until 4 to 45k. It'll rattle pretty consistent in that range. Also if you hold it at 35k or so the rattle stays until you advance or return below 3k
 

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on reflection mine was pretty obvious - I didn't want to believe and was looking for other things as this extensive thread shows

Idle was fine - only on power did the noise become obvious at about 3000k revs, it is a profound low level thumping knock - not a ping and the engine had trouble revving and was severely compromised on power

it is also detectable by blipping the throttle from idle, you will hear a very distinctive low level mechanical mess

my new engine is also noisy but not the same sort of noise


you can test for big end bearing

take out the plugs and manually crank the engine and with a long screwdriver inserted in each cylinder one by one, bring the piston up to the top and let it go down about an inch or so then push the screwdriver down - it should be solid with no movement - if there is movement downwards with the screwdriver then the rod bearing on that cylinder is toast, this is not fool proof because just before the bearing seizes or runs it might tighten up but generally if you have knock due to a rod bearing then there will be a very slight movement when you push the top of the piston down - this is what causes the noise

I do hope it is something else my friend but best to do the about test just to be sure

another obvious test you can do is measure the oil pressure - this will also tell you if you have a bearing problem, the BB should be about 70psi at 4k and drop to about 15-20 at idle

I am looking currently at fitting an oil pressure gauge to my bike so I can see what is going on at all times
That's a good idea with oil pressure gauge. Do ya screw it in to where put oil? I have a bunch of pressure guages.

I sure hope it isn't a rod thing. I'm not a rich man....don't think I can afford new engine. Here is what it sounds like if you can make out the noise

 

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That actually sounds like it's not hitting fully on 1 cylinder.
Yes but I'm not hearing the typical CCT rattle. It has a higher pitched click to it at the rpm ranges I stated above. Also out will present itself at 3 35k and won't stop until 4 to 45k. It'll rattle pretty consistent in that range. Also if you hold it at 35k or so the rattle stays until you advance or return below 3k
Number 1 cylinder is where that coil issue is

About put it back together and do what you told me....I'll post results
 

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Sounds good. Be mindful too if you have a cylinder misfiring it'll make some weird noises as well because of power strike imbalances. If your there and can I'd pull plugs and take some pics of them so we can help you on what they should look like.
 

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Sounds good. Be mindful too if you have a cylinder misfiring it'll make some weird noises as well because of power strike imbalances. If your there and can I'd pull plugs and take some pics of them so we can help you on what they should look like.
I definitely will. Started raining so it's parked undercover and I'm inside. But tomorrow is anot
 
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