Honda CBR XX Forum banner

61 - 80 of 105 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
Geoff, have you checked your FPR?

(y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
yes mate only need replaced once back in 2010


does a balancer shaft make a noise when out of adjustment, I think that is the noise I am hearing on the new engine, long time ago I seem the remember turning one at some point and vaguely remember hearing the exact noise I am hearing now on this new motor
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,841 Posts
Yes if the bscklsdj is to much it'll kick back and forth as it's on offset weight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
Yes if the bscklsdj is to much it'll kick back and forth as it's on offset weight.
"clatter" is the best description yet for what I am hearing, I assume no harm will be done if I don't do it immediately

How many adjusters are there ?

it's defo not timing chain noise
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,841 Posts
2 of them.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,841 Posts
Yep just be patient and do test runs to access the bolts before you start backing things off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
Yep just be patient and do test runs to access the bolts before you start backing things off.

OK, so on the right we have 2x balancer shafts that rotate with the crank (more or less) and use offset weights to minimise vibration - I get it

What is the other one for on the left side above the water pump "I think" known as the idler balancer shaft - I believe it was this one I turned many years ago and got the so called "clatter" noise as opposed to a "whine" - it was that long ago I'm not sure and a very vague memory lol
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,841 Posts
The water pump side one is the idler gear shaft.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,841 Posts
It adjust backlash for the idler balance gear. Because of where the rotation is taken from on the crank that balancer has to run across another gear to get the rotation right. So that adjuster sets the backlash for that gear set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
It adjust backlash for the idler balance gear. Because of where the rotation is taken from on the crank that balancer has to run across another gear to get the rotation right. So that adjuster sets the backlash for that gear set.
So that's the one that can cause "clatter" rather than a whine when adjusted


I'm getting increasingly frustrated with this noise - I am hoping I have not bought a dud engine - I don't think so but I still want to find out what this noise is - it is there at idle - the engine does seem to be good - it sort of sounds like a noisy clutch but it is not the clutch but that sort of sound grrrrrrrrrrrrr lol

I have also considered that it might be an exhaust header very slightly blowing as they had trouble getting it bolted in but that option is quite remote as I would expect to hear a loud ticking noise rather than what I am hearing, tomorrow the fairing is coming off and I'm going to explore as many options as I can - if I can't find out what it is then I'm going to set fire to it lol (just kidding)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
ha ha thinking out loud again lol

This noise (and I should know this) is the timing chain flapping about caused by the CCT - I fitted a manual CCT to my old engine years ago but it was never this noisy, I've listened to a few Youtube videos of the noise and I'm now pretty sure it is the same but boy is it noisy, have to wait to get my manual CCT from the old motor on Monday

anybody now bored with this thread gets my full support to ignore lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
Thanks to beestoys, I discovered that you can add 1-2 turns of the spring to the CCT and give it a new lease on life.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
Thanks to beestoys, I discovered that you can add 1-2 turns of the spring to the CCT and give it a new lease on life.
Yes that I do know - with a little screwdriver you can turn your Auto CCT into a manual one for a while, I have the old one from my old motor in my hand right now lol
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,841 Posts
Geoff
Here is the proceedure Fizzy was talking about.
If you pull the lowers off then I'd take a long screwdriver and start touching parts of the engine as it's running. You should be able to isolate the area the sounds coming from. Then you can break it down to CCT or balance shafts.

There is a way to retention the CCT. I've done it myself and that CCT is still in there.

So step 1 turn the adjuster out until the unit locks. Remove it and then release it. Now here is the tricky part. If you look you will see a metal lock wire in a groove. Carefully use a small screw driver or pick and work it out of the groove. Note the base plate has 2 wide tabs and 2 narrow tabs. you need to carefully lift the plate up out of the notches. Now be careful the plate is under spring tension. you need to carefully lift the plate and clock it 2 more turns and reset it back into the tab reliefs. If you look at the housing there is a notch as well. This is where the springs hook sets.
Now if the plate got away from you don't panic. (Been here done this) The original setting is 10 turns from the relaxed position. So just reset the spring in the groove and carefully give it 12 turns. If the spring came completely loose then the bottom end sets in a grove across the end of the adjuster post just rest set it and start your 12 turns.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
yes today I manually adjusted the automatic adjuster (reset it)

some serious vibrations there that I never remember from before when manually adjusting but it was so long ago

I have to face the reality at some point that the new motor is actually a dud and could be in worse condition than my original which was running sweet until the oil change

If I had hair it would be gone right now because I'd have pulled it all out by now

don't really know what to do now and I hate posting this #### on here because it is very difficult to sort a problem like this out in Thailand were the bike was never actually sold and also very difficult to source a good engine in the land of smiles (grins)

very hard to enjoy the BB when you are not confident that the engine won't lock up at a critical moment

hmmm back where I started 2 weeks ago it seems

15 years of riding bliss and now a nightmare :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
Geoff, for me, I always find that my troubleshooting ability improves when I bounce ideas off others. All we can do here is to be the other for you to bounce off.

Anyway, re the bike. Before you assume the worst, eliminate all other sources of noise/vibration.

1. You "reset" the CCT? How many turns did you put on the spring? With the CCT off, did you check condition of chain guide?
2. Balance weights may need adjusting.
3. Water pump?
4. Clutch?
5. Stator bolts loose?
4. Fuel injection badly out of balance, FI intake rubbers incorrectly installed?
5. Engine improperly mounted to frame.
6. Large part ie: subframe, radiator, kickstand etc. loose/broken and vibrating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Discussion Starter #80
Geoff, for me, I always find that my troubleshooting ability improves when I bounce ideas off others. All we can do here is to be the other for you to bounce off.

Anyway, re the bike. Before you assume the worst, eliminate all other sources of noise/vibration.

1. You "reset" the CCT? How many turns did you put on the spring? With the CCT off, did you check condition of chain guide?
2. Balance weights may need adjusting.
3. Water pump?
4. Clutch?
5. Stator bolts loose?
4. Fuel injection badly out of balance, FI intake rubbers incorrectly installed?
5. Engine improperly mounted to frame.
6. Large part ie: subframe, radiator, kickstand etc. loose/broken and vibrating.
I wound the CCT back up in situ and let it spring back then gave a half a turn to tighten it further but the vibration was intense on the screwdriver - very difficult to even hold it, I don't remember it ever being like that

water pump from my old motor

clutch and gearbox seem fine

FI fine

didn't get to the balancers yet, will check them this week

compression test next and will check the pistons from the top to see if any of them have vertical movement - you can do this by taking each piston to TDC then down slightly and push the piston from above to see if there is movement in the big end bearing

the one thing this motor has going for it is it is not lacking in power - 20-30% up on my old engine but that alone doesn't mean the crank is good
 
61 - 80 of 105 Posts
Top