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Neat! Painting up or leaving raw? I have had sorry experience of supposed SS grills proving rust worthy on me that I now VHT spray the crap out of everything. I wouldn't wish the same on you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Neat! Painting up or leaving raw? I have had sorry experience of supposed SS grills proving rust worthy on me that I now VHT spray the crap out of everything. I wouldn't wish the same on you.
Hey Malo my man! Thanks! No... Leaving it raw. I remembered we had this discussion a while back so when I went sourcing for this grill I actually did a water test for three days to make sure this aluminum was genuine. All good! This baby won't rust.
 

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Ah you've gone alu… that won't rust but will oxidise (dull over is grey/ white matt finish… though stay away ftom salt water spray… I have a vague recollection that'll rot your alu pdq).

My prob was with SS (stainless steel) turning out to be too low grade an SS (i.e. wasn't stainless and therefore rusted). Alu is obvs lighter, easier to work and doesn't rust (though not as strong and can rot). It's all a balance. You could lacquer it up if you want it to stay shiny shiny :unsure:(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Ah you've gone alu… that won't rust but will oxidise (dull over is grey/ white matt finish… though stay away ftom salt water spray… I have a vague recollection that'll rot your alu pdq).

My prob was with SS (stainless steel) turning out to be too low grade an SS (i.e. wasn't stainless and therefore rusted). Alu is obvs lighter, easier to work and doesn't rust (though not as strong and can rot). It's all a balance. You could lacquer it up if you want it to stay shiny shiny :unsure:(y)
Yep! Salt water shouldn't be a prob. But plan on cutting out second set for both oil cooler and rad as back up... I see them lasting trouble free for at least 5 years if not more. Really don't want to go the paint route...
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hey bro, just bcoz it takes me literally years to progress a project doesn't preclude me from expecting results yesterday from others 🙄 esp when you do such fab work 😁
Thanks mate! Just about finished dash as well! Got some cleaning up to do... Not perfect but does look good!

By the way, U take whatever time it takes to finish yur projects! PERIOD! 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Grill work...

New oil cooler grill.
View attachment 131563

Rivets failed. Piece needs to be welded back and holes in the grill...
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New rad & grill

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4 hours and 228 holes later...
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LEAD headlight conversion. Thanks to Malo and ptxyz for their input.
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Although I did a terrible job of expanding inner diameter of tabbed ring the overall fit is snug and once locked in will not move. Sorry! Did't take pic of clip locked in place!
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Ready for plug n play cables.
131626
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hello Fellow Fighter Pilot! Unfortunately I'm unable to keep all pics on page one. So you'll just have to follow the thread for semi reg updates.
 

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Great idea to create the right spacer from the OEM part. Wish I'd thought if that when I bent my retaining clip instead (real pain in the…).

My other learning point was I then needed to bend the prongs of the led connector to be wider to mate with the bike's wiring. I should have just used a second set of the OEM bulb holders to act as adapters (esp as non-OEM parts are cheap as chips on AliExpress, if indeed they prove to be the equivalent part as I've not purchased them yet).

£1.54 40%OFF | 2pcs Headlight Socket Headlamp Bulb Holder for Mazda 3/5/323 Kawasaki ER6-F Plastic And Metal Makings Black Appearance
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Great idea to create the right spacer from the OEM part. Wish I'd thought if that when I bent my retaining clip instead (real pain in the…).

My other learning point was I then needed to bend the prongs of the led connector to be wider to mate with the bike's wiring. I should have just used a second set of the OEM bulb holders to act as adapters (esp as non-OEM parts are cheap as chips on AliExpress, if indeed they prove to be the equivalent part as I've not purchased them yet).

£1.54 40%OFF | 2pcs Headlight Socket Headlamp Bulb Holder for Mazda 3/5/323 Kawasaki ER6-F Plastic And Metal Makings Black Appearance
Thanks! Was inspired by both you and ptxyz! You could always do plug n play connector. Non? On the "Little help with LED please" thread I saw a canbus in yur pic. I ordered a pair from Fleabay,

 

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I was really expecting just to find a little adapter but to date the bulb holder adapter is the nearest I've found as a single, simple block. Plenty out there to be morphed from something else (as per the one in your link but that's something in need of mod'ing in itself or just a longer piece of spaghetti to add to the clutter).

Anyone found a simple block adapter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
SO started working on spherical mirrors... Next, will instal of blue lights for flashing arrows.


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Hey Malo! So ended up ordering 14 LED turn signals with two wire... Unfortunately, I totally screwed up the holing process on the back side. Simple process so I thought. I had the right idea but wrong technique. I made a cardboard template with round hole where the LED would shine through... I tapped the template to the back tip of the mirror then proceeded to dab each hole with "Easy Off" oven cleaner with a Q-tip to remove a perfect round hole of backing paint AND "silver". THe "Easy Off" removed the white paint but NOT the the "silver"! Enven rotating the Q-tip wouldn't remove the silver. So added another very small dab of oven cleaner directly on "silver" waited 5 seconds and tried removing it with gentle rotating movement with a dry Q-tip. It worked! BUT my cardboard template had expanded due to the addition of extra "Easy Off" and leached beyond the hole creating a hole with tentacles!and leach lines!!! On ALL the holes!! PHRAK!!! 😡🤬😡🤬 So either I remove ALL the paint and "re-mirror" with mirror in a can by Rustoleum OR buy a new mirror! AAAArrrgggg! May I ask how did you make yur holes?

MALO-
1. I applied the pcb assembly to the rear of the mirror. Apllied 12v to the leads and flipped it all over to see if it shone through. It didn't.

2. I tried the same on a spare car wingmirror glass I had to hand. They did shine through. So, firstly the difference was either thickness of backing coating or difference in material used in the backing.

3. I then played with the old broken BB mirtor glass I'd removed from the mirror assemblies. I played with dremel (too harsh and not accurate enough) and acid etching (too aggressive) to practise and got as far as discovering all I needed to do was thin/ get through the backing coating but not the silvering. In fact that was my preference anyway so the mirrors wouldn't have distracting holes in their silvering so you couldn’t tell the leds were there when they're off. Hmmm… liking your Q-tip and oven cleaner idea simply to get down to the silvering. I'd then stop there. Prob you discovered was not to apply too much and to wash it off quickly to prevent spread/ leatching etc.

4. Too aggressive: on the old broken glass used in 3. above I experimented with "re-silvering" to see if I could repair any hole with damaged silvering. I sed a can of the Rustolene. Very poor results prob because of my technique (not enough can shaking, too thick application etc). So I started googling resilvering mirrors chemically and figure it was cheaper to buy new mirror glass if I damaged the current set (I think the price is now down to $20).

5. So post experimenting, I then used the same template approach as you. I used a piece of paper laid over the pcb led side. Rubbed gently to get impression of where the leds are and the sides/ edges of the pcbs.

6. Removed the paper and placed on a flat cutting board. Idea being I would use a craft knife to cut out exact shape of leds. Proved too much phaff so I ended up with a bic biro pen which simply punched a hole in the paper at each led location.

7. Taped the paper to the back of the mirror. I then marked the position of each led on the back of the mirror.

8. I repeated 1. again to check I'd got the marks in the right place i.e. with sufficient room for the pcb not to extend beyond the edge of the mirror. When I applied the 12v I noticed some of the leds were now slightly visible. The action of marking the back with the pen had in some places thinned the relatively soft backing coating enough to allow light through.

9. I repeatedly marked the rear with the bic applying medium pressure and in a cirular motion to widen the area checking periodically I hadn't pressed too hard and made a visible mark on the mirror side. I had in a few places but you really had to look hard to see them.

10. Repeated 1. again to see which leds now shone through and to what extent. I could then widen some markings to make them brighter or apply a touch more pressure to create ones that weren't yet visible.

So I would suggest buying new glass. Save money and time avoiding re-silvering and just use a hardish rounded point to thin the backing. God bless bic!

Hope that helps.

LOVIN-
Phweew! Okay! Thought about seeing holes after silver removal... Good one! So now I will buy another mirror($50!) 🤬 Use the same technique OR hardish round point BUT this time STOP once white backing is gone! Man! The things we learn! Some good! Some bad $$$!! Thanks again man!

OKAY!!! Got it figured out! So... 4 min to 4 min and 30 sec with a small heap of oven cleaner will get ya 90%-95% to silver. A small heap in the hole because anything less will take longer and will dry out before it can fully dissolve the white backing paint! You may end up doing slight touch ups with smigeon of a dab of oven cleaner on yur Q-tip and barely brush it to pick any "pieces" left behind after initial 4 min. with a clean Q-tip. Et voila! And like you said can barely see it. Now gotta go buy another $50 🤬 mirror! :) Learned some stuff along the way.

MALO-
Your welcome as ever bro. I do think my write up included how I'd used a pen to make the holes but i may be wrong… so long ago now.

Glad to have helped though soz not sooner re saving $$$.

I too have now learnt re oven cleaner as an option v bic biro. That may come in handy for my next attempt… to integrate a "heated mirror" symbol for when they are on. I have the led and symbol which I can
a) fit into the outer plastic mirror cowl
b) fit through the glass
c) fit behind the glass to shine through like the indicators

Clearly c) keeps the OEM look (which is my utopia) but the hardest to do. Oven cleaner may be my option to thin the back but not remove or tarnish the silvering.

Care to share any pics of your attempts so I can see the good, the bad and the ugly so to speak?

LOVIN-
Yeah, U had mentioned a pen B4. However, other side would be flared out, so would have to exato it off and the finish product will be moot! JMHI! NO prob re saving $$$. Ultimately my bad for not asking B4 and just going ahead and doing it! Anywho, learned some stuff along the way. As for pics I was going to but got lazy! Lolol I'll post them in a bit.


MALO-
The mirror glass was £17.50 here for the pair. Is your much higher price therefore inc a huge delivery cost to Canada plus duty taxes etc?

LOVIN-
Okay! Wow! £ 17.50 for a pair!!! :mad: Yup... sucker punched with a "bag" of taxes at $50 for just one!


Now for some pics!


The holes on the cardboard template are the original markings B4 I decided to buy 2 LED flashers. So used other side.

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Paper template to make LED holes in cardboard.
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Pinpointing holes for LED lights.
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Cardboard template ready.
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I tried a number of solvents and "Easy Off" oven cleaner was the best. Application and timing are crucial!
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Application and timing gone wrong... ended up having to remove all the white backing and considered buying Rustolium's "mirror in a can!" to re-mirror. But alas! Don't wanna run the risk of mirror finish not matching with the other. i.e. too light, too dark... Soooo, will order a new one.
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Unfortunately don't have a micrometer to measure thickness because I'm sure the white backing is uneven by a couple of microns here and there...
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So, as I mentioned B4 application and timing are crucial:

APPLICATION
Apply a large dab of oven cleaner into template hole. If you don't put a large dab it will dry out and you'll have to start over again with a partially dissolved backing and will be hard to gage how far you are from the silver.

TIMING(Edited July 7, 2021)
4 MIN to 4 MIN & 30 SECONDS MAX! (Even if the backing may be thicker in some spots)
Tape template firmly to back of mirror. Fill first 2 holes, keep template in place. then wait 4 min. At 4 min. start removing backing from first hole with clean dry Q-tip This will take less than 15 seconds to clean. Place Q-tip in template hole and rotate VERY slowly and gently. Going to fast and/or to hard will cause you to "burn" through the silvering. By the time you finish the first, the second will be just "ripe". Repeat process 2 at a time until all holes are done. Once completed NOW is the time to go back with a clean slightly damped oven cleaner Q-tip to pick up any residue left behind by initial 4 min dissolve. The template wont be necessary for this part. Remember... Never press hard!!! Light strokes or light rolling of Q-tips between the fingers, until you see no more white backing. IF you press too hard, yur Q-tip will come away with silver AND you loose the reflective properties mirror side.

131650



Perfect backing removed. *CORRECTION!! * SOME TO VERY LITTLE LIGHT DOES COME THROUGH! Top right was 12 minutes! Completely dissolved backing and silvering. Slightly lower and to the left backing removed AND some of the silvering, some light is coming through.
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LED is in place AND covered with aluminum duct tape, final product will look like this. Can barely make out hole AND still reflective...
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Malo:
Can't wait to see yours with the leds light.

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My bic biro pen approach wasn't the most even "pin prick" hole array and, as I discussed with Luvin, with hindsight avoid the vertical line in the glass as the leds shine much brighter through that area as per my photo above.

Next hindsight comment is watch how close to the edge your leds go. Firstly to ensure the pcb doesn't overhang the edge and secondly a quick double check the outer leds aren't too close to the plastic mirror retaining edge once fitted (in my case esp as I intend to use silicon sealant to seal the edges once fitted to provent water ingress killing the silvering or the electrics).
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Although I did a terrible job of expanding inner diameter of tabbed ring the overall fit is snug and once locked in will not move. Sorry! Did't take pic of clip locked in place!
131729


Ready for plug n play cables.
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Unfortunately, the prongs are not wide enough and require some painful bending to fit OEM plug. So to avoid that I used existing slots to widen prong spacing. I could have also used existing OEM plug that I cut up earlier but for the life of me can't find them!? So plan B...
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Existing slots cut out.
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Small tabs must be cut or bent over for easier insertion.
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I love using baking soda crazy glue trick and wanted to try crazy glue gel. Finish product: hard, waterproof and paintable but messy. Liquid crazy glue would have provided a finer finish, not as lumpy...
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Perfect!
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Unfortunately, broke both original prongs forcing it through slots! These aluminum prongs are slightly stiffer. Also dotted sticky backing with crazy glue gel for maximum adhesion...
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LED conversion complete! Ready for install.
131728
 

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Great work Lovin… as you know, I know becoz I've done very similar too. For others following in our footsteps, pause for thought and check out these babies on Jaws:


They're rated at 4,000 lumen and appear to need no fans, no canbus either and look to maybe be the right prong width already (though I haven't checked other than a quick glance). If only they were four-sided!

Sorry Lovin… wished I'd spotted them sooner!

131735


Anyone tried them already?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Thanks Malo! No prob! No stress! I'm good! AND OURS IS FOURSIDED! It's also about the journey! Learning new stuff, techniques etc... As we ol geezers move forward with our collective dinosaur bikes it will be inevitable that new tech. will enable us to do some upgrades here and there... IF that is desired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
NEW PICS...

4 hours and 228 holes later...
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Two new 6" fans.
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Needed to cut ends off or wouldn't fit...
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Fan rigging gear...
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Installing damping cushions on "New" corner spot...
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Needed to cut part of ribbing for tie down cable & cushion.
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Tripled cushions to level out corner...
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