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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,
I've a 2005 bird, owned since new its been a great bike I left it for about 18months in storage and now it sounds like a triumph triple. I've done and checked the following.
removed tank flushed and refiled.
removed pump and filter and cleaned.
removed injectors cleaned/flushed.
checked FPR.
removed plugs and inspected all seems fine.
checked connections and condition of coils even swapped them.
checked connectors on ecu.
checked for a vacuum leak cant find anything.
bike has only just hit 25,000km has always been looked after serviced and kept in a shed.
anything i may have missed? once its done 10-15ks it starts to run real rough
 

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Put a multi meter on the battery as well, see what volts shes making when running, sound weird but ive had bikes that run rough when reg/rec and even the stators going out.
oh and get some good switch cleaner and do every thing with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is one header pipe cooler than the others?
nope checked that all the same.
I pulled everything down again this morning re cleaned injectors and pump/filter and it ran great for about 40km now coughing again under 3k. thinking there is some shit I've missed in the tank hopeful a few tanks and it'll clear up
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Put a multi meter on the battery as well, see what volts shes making when running, sound weird but ive had bikes that run rough when reg/rec and even the stators going out.
oh and get some good switch cleaner and do every thing with it.
just checked V 12.9 in batt.
13.3-14.3v when running. did take a bit of a rev to pick up V
 

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You might want to flush the fuel rail as well.
Stock R/R doesn't tend start charging until around 2500 rpm
 
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You say checked FPR, however, a pinhole leak that opens up when warm could allow some fuel direct thru vac line. Check vac line on just run hot engine. It must be bone dry.
Voltage looks ok.
Double check all electrical connections, including ECU and make sure it's strapped down tight.
18 months in storage, some issues expected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
where is the diagnostic plug meant to be on an 2005 Bird? I've looked all through the tail section and cant find anything. should probably see if it has any codes.
 

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Mines is 2004 uk bird, my diagnostic plug was at the back of the loom at the tail light, were the ecu is, I think it was in the bunch of wires were the tail light and indicators are plug in. Small ish black box thingy with 2 pin holes for the check.
 

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where is the diagnostic plug meant to be on an 2005 Bird? I've looked all through the tail section and cant find anything. should probably see if it has any codes.
Just one thing or 3 lol,, are all the 4 bolts in the head the ones that you take out to ballance the throttle bodys? Is the breather pipe from the rocker cover to airbox clear? And lastly, if you can, hook up a volt meter when your out riding and put it in front of you on the tank if you can so you can see it, I once had a bad stator faze that only showed it wasnt working properly 4-7000 revs steady throttle, as soon as I started cruising my volts dropped to 11.8v and lower, but from start up to about 8 miles out I had no symptoms, then it wanted to stall when I slowed down to a stop, and then idled a bit lumpy, but from cold no symptoms only showed when my bike was hot.
 

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Cheers cbrsloany05,

I have an 05 BB tooo......

18 months of storage (assumed no monthly run up to full temp), so it needs all the fluids flushed and possibly thermostat changed if it doesn't open at 85C. I changed my FPR last year as a precaution....... if it leaks fuel into cyl 3 the diluted contaminated oil will cause a bearing to fail, so it just isn't worth the gamble - though yours is such low kms it may be ok (mine had 129k kms) so do as Beestoys said and check for wet hose or fuel smell in the crankcase (sniff test oil filler cap).

Is that battery really ok? It appears to have good static volts (12.9) and reads 13 at idle and 14.something from 1500-2000rpm like mine, but if in doubt, throw it out (voltage tests need to be done after 12hrs resting, not straight after any riding or battery charger treatment, to get an honest test result.......). If it "cold cranks" at under 9.5v before the engine fires, then the battery is on the way out and it will be working the reg/rect and stator hard to maintain charge.

If the issue isn't what Bikerian described, try a few tanks of Valvoline fuel/carby cleaner - I have used it for decades (comes in a two bottle pack and is only $15) - over two or three tanks it will clean up the fuel system without damage.

I recommend SSB batteries here in Aus, I use them and they are way better than Yuasa (higher CCA, cheaper) and are available at all bike shops or direct on line.

Good luck..... did you see any rust under the top of the fuel tank when you had the fuel pump out? I know all about that after I replaced my fuel filter last year after errr, cough, 16yrs..... maybe the BB was stored with a full tank of fuel and didn't rust.....

PS One thing not many know about..... probably not your issue, but you could buy a spray can of upper cylinder cleaner and squirt some down through the vent holes that hide under the airbox trumpets..... you will see it froth through into the intakes above the inlet valves...... I usually do this while I have the airbox off. By the time I have installed the airbox it has done it's job dissolving any carbon deposits that may have blocked these vents. Then I can do a TB synchro and get it purring smoothly.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just one thing or 3 lol,, are all the 4 bolts in the head the ones that you take out to ballance the throttle bodys? Is the breather pipe from the rocker cover to airbox clear? And lastly, if you can, hook up a volt meter when your out riding and put it in front of you on the tank if you can so you can see it, I once had a bad stator faze that only showed it wasnt working properly 4-7000 revs steady throttle, as soon as I started cruising my volts dropped to 11.8v and lower, but from start up to about 8 miles out I had no symptoms, then it wanted to stall when I slowed down to a stop, and then idled a bit lumpy, but from cold no symptoms only showed when my bike was hot.
done and all good :-(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cheers cbrsloany05,

I have an 05 BB tooo......

18 months of storage (assumed no monthly run up to full temp), so it needs all the fluids flushed and possibly thermostat changed if it doesn't open at 85C. I changed my FPR last year as a precaution....... if it leaks fuel into cyl 3 the diluted contaminated oil will cause a bearing to fail, so it just isn't worth the gamble - though yours is such low kms it may be ok (mine had 129k kms) so do as Beestoys said and check for wet hose or fuel smell in the crankcase (sniff test oil filler cap).

Is that battery really ok? It appears to have good static volts (12.9) and reads 13 at idle and 14.something from 1500-2000rpm like mine, but if in doubt, throw it out (voltage tests need to be done after 12hrs resting, not straight after any riding or battery charger treatment, to get an honest test result.......). If it "cold cranks" at under 9.5v before the engine fires, then the battery is on the way out and it will be working the reg/rect and stator hard to maintain charge.

If the issue isn't what Bikerian described, try a few tanks of Valvoline fuel/carby cleaner - I have used it for decades (comes in a two bottle pack and is only $15) - over two or three tanks it will clean up the fuel system without damage.

I recommend SSB batteries here in Aus, I use them and they are way better than Yuasa (higher CCA, cheaper) and are available at all bike shops or direct on line.

Good luck..... did you see any rust under the top of the fuel tank when you had the fuel pump out? I know all about that after I replaced my fuel filter last year after errr, cough, 16yrs..... maybe the BB was stored with a full tank of fuel and didn't rust.....

PS One thing not many know about..... probably not your issue, but you could buy a spray can of upper cylinder cleaner and squirt some down through the vent holes that hide under the airbox trumpets..... you will see it froth through into the intakes above the inlet valves...... I usually do this while I have the airbox off. By the time I have installed the airbox it has done it's job dissolving any carbon deposits that may have blocked these vents. Then I can do a TB synchro and get it purring smoothly.......
Changed Oil/coolant straight away flushed cooling system, thermostat opens at 85c and fans kick in at 100c same as since the bike was new, On the road temp hovers around 98c-105c on a hot day same as always, Battery is brand new Exide (all i could get) old one was dead. I did leave it with a full tank of fuel and stabilizer no visible rust in tank anywhere pulled the filter and flushed. There's is no fuel or fuel smell in the Vac line to reg or oil. where did you get the new in tank filter Honda Dealer?
I'm wondering if one of the boots from TB to head is cracked or have a leak🤔 will check that out when i get a spare min.
 

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Cheers mate, I used Wemoto for the fuel filter.... got it in 3 days while I was treating and sealing my rusty tank. I can't recall if Honda was out of stock or if I just figured I'd order one instead of visiting my local Honda shop...... The filter was genuine Honda and about $100, but there are others, like K&N etc, which may be cheaper....... but I figured it lasted a long time so WTF (I cut the old one open so I figure 100k kms is a good time to change them unless bad fuel clogs them).

(y)
 
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