So, in my introduction post, I promised pictures. Today, I'll post the damages. Of course, there's nothing valuable from the fairing. Everything was dumped.
Here, you can see what a straight subframe does not look like. I should note that all the wire looms, the ECU and relays are all fine. I just took off all the plastic parts. Only the mudguard is on in this picture, but it finally got scrapped too. I already have the new (used) subframe, which is in perfect condition.
Next, the tank. No holes, so it's fixable. An experienced friend will pull it. I got everything off. There is absolutely no rust, but I'm still thinking of coating the insides, since I already have done half the job.
The only real (as in non-cosmetic) damage, is this little hole in the left engine cover. It will be replaced, not fixed. There was no sign of damage on the coil, we found no debris inside. After the new cover comes in, we will add some cheap oil, give a few turns by hand to check that there is nothing wrong inside, then properly seal it, pour in the good stuff and let it purr.
Quite a project you have there. Good luck and have fun. Plenty of folk on here will be happy to advise on any aspects of it. I look forward to more pics as you progress.
I was wondering about another issue. I only got 1 key, and it's a bit bent.
I've seen all the "cut from a picture" stuff, and quite a lot of videos about Honda cable hack to register new keys on CBRs and VFRs. But on the bird, it's a bit different, isn't it?
As most relative posts in here seem to end in a PM agreement, and I don't want to just PM people whom names are in older posts, could someone reveal to me how the cable is used on this beautiful little beast?
So... We got the new engine cover, put in the cheap oil to wash off and check the motor. I'm in love! We primed the pump, and as soon as we pushed the ignition button, she started purring. The motor hadn't started for over a month, and it was 4 degrees Celcius (39.2 F).
Today, I received this fairing kit from motea. Just €165 for it, and €10 for shipping to Greece with DHL. I was a little scared at first about what I'd receive, as they somehow convinced DHL that this huge box was just 1.5 kilos (3.3 lbs). Very fast shipping (6 working days) and ok (or "meh") packaging.
Here's a picture of the ensemble, as taken out of the box.
I was wondering about another issue. I only got 1 key, and it's a bit bent.
I've seen all the "cut from a picture" stuff, and quite a lot of videos about Honda cable hack to register new keys on CBRs and VFRs. But on the bird, it's a bit different, isn't it?
As most relative posts in here seem to end in a PM agreement, and I don't want to just PM people whom names are in older posts, could someone reveal to me how the cable is used on this beautiful little beast?
Sorry, that's beyond by knowledge base… I've a '97
carbie which doesn't have HISS just a simple dumb key.
What year and model is your project BB? I recently fitted an aftermarket set of body work and noticed a few differences between carbie and FI fitting plus observations on heat shielding. Which do you have (carbie or EFI) and depending upon answer I may have a couple of "helpful" observations for you.
Also re the body panel set, did it come with decals, fastners, rubber grommets etc, heat shield, mirror cowls, tank cover, grab rail and the little black panel insert cover for access to the parking light on the underside of the nose cowl not just the obvious other panel inserts?
When I searched for a set some or all of the above was missing for different sources. None included the mirror cowls and grab rail. Some included a tank cover (not an issue if you're respraying the tank anyway) but all need colour matching with the rest of the set so best to have all to be srayed together at one time.
All excluded items also start pushing up your costs if not included in the set. NB Beware of cheap fittings/ fastners, esp out of Asia… rust like heck in an instant! OEM is the way so I hope you've still got a lot of the originals to keep incidental cists from spiraling.
Forgive me if you are experienced and on top of all of this anyway... I just wish somebody had mentioned it to me my first time round.
What year and model is your project BB? I recently fitted an aftermarket set of body work and noticed a few differences between carbie and FI fitting plus observations on heat shielding. Which do you have (carbie or EFI) and depending upon answer I may have a couple of "helpful" observations for you.
Mine is a '99. It has the EFI system, but an analog dash. About the dash: I found a LOT of epoxy inside, mostly delaminated. The two lower bolts were just reinforced, but the middle top one was broken. I cleaned all the epoxy I could, without risking stabbing the flimsy circuit. Most had already delaminated. I used PU construction glue, as it remains elastic forever. Feels very strong now.
Also re the body panel set, did it come with decals, fasteners, rubber grommets etc, heat shield, mirror cowls, tank cover, grab rail and the little black panel insert cover for access to the parking light on the underside of the nose cowl not just the obvious other panel inserts?
It's just the ABS molded parts, and all the black polypropylene stuff. But yes, I am going to paint everything. For the screws, as I didn't see anything too weird on the bike, I'll go to the machinists' shops and get some stainless steel beauties.
To hold the inner cowls on the side fairings, the original parts had these disgusting springy washers. I designed and will 3d print new holders that will screw on the plastics.
I also printed molds for making grommets. I have used them before for my SV, I made those with two parts silicone, and I was very impressed. I tried this time using the same PU glue I mentioned above. It was really difficult to pump the glue inside, it has really high viscosity. It also took a week to fully cure, as it has minimum exposure to air. But, they are much firmer than the silicone ones, and I used the harder silicone I could find. Here's a pic of the new ones. I will share some pics of the silicone ones, and the stl files if anyone wants to give a try (with an SLA printer, not a fillament one).
… Mine is a '99. It has the EFI system, but an analog dash.… It's just the ABS molded parts, and all the black polypropylene stuff. But yes, I am going to paint everything.
Sounds promising re your keys. Phew re being an EFI. The tweaks you'd need are all associated with a carbie not EFI (difference in internal tabs in the nose cone, shape of Y-shaped lower front insert around the radiator and for an EFI don't put grills/ mesh in the nose cone front air intakes apparently it disrupts the ram air too much). Watch out re replacement radiators too (carbie v EFI are physically different and not interchangeable. Diff with the oil cooler config too).
I love your 3D printing! Very jealous as that's an area I so so so want to explore! You'll save yourself a touch re grommets and the little (1“ long) plastic edging used say on the undertray sides and the seal around the rear brake light etc.
I was lucky as I ported all that from my old panelling. A few high density foam blocks will be of use (in tail and side panels). The parts manual will truly help spotting whats needed where.
For the foam edging on the panel inserts up by the tank and dash (plus inside the mirror cowls) I found door draft excluder worked a treat.
Plenty in other threads re heat shielding the lower cowl/ panels else they may melt esp near the downpipes.
Carry on with the photos. Keen to see the resurection.
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