Honda CBR XX Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,475 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bearings are oft neglected items and only tend to be replaced when they have failed. If you are ‘lucky’ you can go round the corner to a bike shop and tell them ‘sort it’ or buy the bearing and replace it yourself. Better still put wheel bearings on the maintenance schedule and replace them on a ‘regular’ basis, most do 50K miles upwards but like all things it depends on how well you look after them!

There is an easier way to obtain bearings — from your local bearing supplier — you would be surprised how many there are. I have used this approach for many years not only for ease of picking up bearings and cost saving but mainly because I can choose the bearing manufacturer (I like SKF and Timken, the Japanese bearings are generally very good but there are some really poor bearings out there so never buy just on cost) — just because your bike came fitted for example with NTN bearings doesn’t mean you have to find another NTN bearing to replace it.

All bearings have numbers (and letters) on them, the important part is the 4 or 5 figure number which is ‘generic’ to all manufacturers and it is this number which helps you source your new bearing. For example an injection front wheel uses 2 ‘6204’ bearings.

The generic number also identifies the size of the bearing so it is also a useful ‘double check’ to measure the bearing (inner and outer race diameters and width) with a vernier calliper. If you are checking a tapered roller bearing make the check with the inner and outer races assembled.
To find these numbers look on the bearing casing or in the case of sealed ball bearings the numbers are usually printed on the seal itself.
With ball bearings there is often a seal to consider — this is where all manufacturers vary. Using the example from above an injection front wheel uses a 6204 bearing
Looking at the information below from NSK (common on Hondas) you need a 6204DDU since the bearing is fully sealed and there is contact on both sides.

NSK bearings.jpg

NTN call this bearing 6204LLU, other manufacturer designations include 62042RS, 6204NPPB and 6204NPPU — all you need when sourcing the bearing is the knowledge that it is rubber sealed on both sides and that there is contact on both sides!
It is for this reason that I have only given the ‘generic’ number in the list below of the common bearings.

Front Wheel
Fully rubber sealed contact both sides.
Carb Left 6004 Right 6004
Injection Left 6204 Right 6204

Rear Wheel
Fully rubber sealed contact both sides.
Left 6304 Right 6304

Sprocket Carrier
Fully rubber sealed contact both sides.
6305

Head Bearings
The top bearing used on the Blackbird (and many Hondas) is a non-standard size. It is marked ‘32005’, (this is an ISO standard bearing number) it has a 26mm I.D. rather than the 25mm I.D. you might expect. Note some bearing manufacturers call this bearing "32005/26", but some do not!

Head Bearings — Taper Rollers
32005 Top
32006 Bottom
Both types of steering stem bearings use separate metal/rubber dust seals; but the optional tapered roller 32006RS lower bearing incorporates a dust seal, so no separate seal is required - possibly of use if you have destroyed the seal and can't source another quickly! The RS here stands for Rubber Seal - so if you see a designation of 2RS you can correctly assume it has 2 rubber seals.

Head Bearings — Angular Contact Ball Bearings
32005 Top
32006 Bottom
The same number is used for both bearing types; just ask for roller or ball bearing.

EDIT Nov 2017 Certainly in the UK you cannot now get ball bearings with this designation you can only purchase tapered rollers.
However if you want ball bearings all is not lost. Honda still supply ball bearing headsets. These are made by KOYO and their specific part numbers are
Top SAC2647-1
Bottom SAC3055-1
These are available through good bearing suppliers.

Rear Suspension

1725 Dog Bone (both ends) - needle roller bearing.
1725 Swing Arm bearing (suspension linkage)

Swing arm (side with one bearing)
2830 Open end caged roller, no seal.

Swing arm (2 bearing side)
6904 Non sealed bearing caged roller — 2 of these needed.
Note Swing arm bearings are the same for both Carb and Inj swing arms even though the arms differ.

LH fork
1412 2 off bearings for brake system — non sealed cup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,191 Posts
The front wheel needs two oil/dust seals 28x47.2x7 Injection. There are 3 parts listed, one is a 28X42X8, maybe it is the size for the carbies.
Rear wheel has a 30x52x7 dust seal and a 34x62.2x7 oil seal. The oil seal Part number 19 is the only thing I was not able to find at my bearing supply store.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,013 Posts
I've bought all my bearing from Jaws.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,475 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I've bought all my bearing from Jaws.
Absolutely nothing wrong with that, I like supporting people like John (and I do), this thread is aimed more at those times when you can't wait for mail order .................
 

·
NEED WORK!
Joined
·
7,451 Posts
Btw the head stock bearings can be had by their size too, which is:

26x47x15 top
30x55x17 bottom

You would of course need the seals to go with that separately, if you need/want to change them.. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,741 Posts
I do keep a Pivot Works kit in stock for the rr wheel.
I don't sell All Balls unless the customer doesn't care about quality and only price matters.
I don't stock the frt PW kit,not worth it.
I do stock basic 6004,6204 etc bearings and Japanese tapered head brgs.
I should really stock more dust seals....

And for the last 2 yrs have worked at a KAWI dealer and don't stock any of this anymore(got 6004 bearings),but if you're located nearby can still sell them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Hi TheDuck,

Well done top writeup, have copied and saved. Useful info.
Also can anyone recommend a decent bearing extractor ?
Thanks again

Tony
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
262 Posts
Needing bearing pullers
If you cant get the bottom head bearing off the steering stem, wrap tape around the stem/seal to stop splatter sticking, and run a bead of weld around the bearing track,don't need much... when cool the bearing should drop off.Leaving the seal.
Same with other internal races, you can use grease to stop splatter sticking, clean well after tho.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
thanks for this great info !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
so I'm thinking of replacing the Bearings myself due to each shop that I've contacted has quoted 1500 usd to do the work. Is this a tough and extensive job? I'm no mechanic but I know how to use my hands well enough to do most work. the bike symptoms are: a high pitch noise when traveling at speed as well as a clicking sound coming from behind the front sprocket when just walking the bike. It's not the chain. Any help/advise would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
I replaced the front and rear bearings this weekend. Pretty easy job. I did not use any special tools. Heat definitely helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Hey guys. During a trip to Pyrenees last week, I've developed a fairly loud rumbling noise from front end and was wondering if it could be worn wheel bearings! Bike's done 22k miles. There is a very small amount of play in the wheel bearing. John Smith, formerly owner of Jaws did a brilliant instruction memo on front wheel bearing replacement not using any fancy tools! Does anyone remember it and know where I can find it? I did my carb bird 3 yrs ago and now I may want to replace my injection front wheel bearings. Any advice is very welcome.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top