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Just don’t get when applying pedal only centre piston works funny concept


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Because per the above diagram on a rolling bike it isn't just the center piston. It works the 2 outers per the secondary on the front fork leg
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I have stripped the caliper now all free, but I started it on centre stand put in 1st and tried rear brake barely slows down as previous post, what now


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Discussion Starter #25
I have bit the bullet and bought a de-link kit, thanks all for help


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The best thing is to delink the brakes with a Jaws De-link kit. Never had a test failure and the brakes at both ends work better. Also this removes a lot of weight from the bike.
 

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Cheers all,

Twice a month I run my BB up to full temp (fan on) and run through the gears and pump the forks etc.....

While doing that I lean on the rear rake lever and with less pressure than a foot can apply (I use a stick and push with my hand, because the bike is parked very close to the wall).... this easily slows/drags on the rear disc and pulls the rpms down..... without any assistance from the front m/c.

I thought the rear caliper used 2 pistons with the pedal and the DCBS applied the center piston when the forks plunged. Same on the front, but it's been a while since I read the destructions, so I might be wrong...... :unsure:.

If your rear brake isn't doing anything then it's overdue for maintenance/cleaning. Also, if it locks the wheel up by itself it's not working properly...... DCBS was designed to be a mechanical equivalent for ABS (Anti Brake Skid)... and the best way to stop is not to skid.

I agree a well serviced DCBS works really well on the road..... BUT, it's a PITA to bleed.

I am considering the Jaws de-link kit (c/w drilling the center pistons to activate all 3 per caliper) once the covid lockdowns let businesses and freight struggle back to normal. It has 60mm longer lines even though my 2" Helibars fit ok with stock lines and a nice bracket for the left front caliper. My 15yo brake hoses show signs of flexing when the lever is squeezed, so braided steel lines would be a good performance upgrade. And it sheds approx 10Kg of weight!

Then I could easily DIY my fluids.... but,.. I would lose the safety of the balanced system - even my brainy KTM SDGT has ABS software that adds rear braking force when needed... just in case the rider has brain fade :LOL:.

One little trick I was alerted to by my mechanic, was to clean the pistons with a squirt of CRC or WD40 and wipe clean with a rag everytime you take the wheel out for a tyre change..... that way you are well clear of the disc and the pads and can wipe all the grime away with a rag before regreasing the slider pins....makes the calipers feel like new again!.... but if the fluid hasn't been changed for several years then the internals are likely moisture contaminated and gum deposits could be affecting brake performance........

Give them a good clean, and regrease sliders, replace cracked rubber covers and flush with new fluids..... you'll have the brakes working like they did when they were new!

(y)
 

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BUT, it's a PITA to bleed.
Only if you get air into the system. For regular fluid changes I never let air in, follow the manual bleeding order and flush out the old fluid whilst adding new.
OK the system is much more time consuming to bleed than my DR Big which only has 2 separate lines but I never expect to spend more than an hour changing the brake and clutch fluids.
 

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Just don’t get when applying pedal only centre piston works funny concept


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dastardly japanese far too clever for us
there is a schematic that shows the whole setup and if you look at that and follow the lines it will become clear
basically its an analogue abs system that works perfectly with no elec-trickery
 
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