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I think I'll try it. the only 'difficult' thing is that the connections are completely different, so before I cut off all wires I'll make me some kind of adapter..
Like you said if anyone has experienced this I amvery very interested, otherwise I'll let you know if this works
 

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Yep that blade opened up due to thermal load, resistance went up blade opened up a little more, resistance went up again, guess you can tell me the next step, then poof !!!
 

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I 'repared' the burned wire, but the regulator must be damaged too while the voltage at 4-5k is still over 18V, still wondering if the new type fits in the old bike. Problem is that the terminals to the new regulator are larger (8mm) than my 6mm terminals. I'm afraid to cut the wires and then find out that it doesn't fit and I cannot send the new r/r back. Have to wait till someone responds....
 

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Use this chart to do a R/R check I have a feeling one of the diodes is breaking down an your leaking AC voltage into the system with the old R/R. You could make up a bridge jumper section with spade connectors. That would allow you to combine the wires without cutting. It would only be a temporary setup to 1 confirm your R/R is gone if the guide doesn't already prove that. 2 It would allow you to hook up the new R/R and verify it will work without modifying it.

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf
 

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Can you post a pic of the new regulator? I've never heard of one having a wire connecting to the bank angle sensor. I think Brian must be correct in thinking it's the 12V sensing wire.
 

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This is the new one, there are 2 green wires, 2 red wires (schema says they came together, and 1 extra black/white, which should go to the bank angle sensor (not on my bike) Graafstroom-20141012-00415.jpg
 

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This is the new one, there are 2 green wires, 2 red wires (schema says they came together, and 1 extra black/white, which should go to the bank angle sensor (not on my bike)
Ok, the black/white wire is for the sensing circuit. You need a switched power source for it. The regulator uses this input to sense when to to switch the output on and off.
The source needs to be as close to actual battery voltage as possible, otherwise there is the danger of overcharging the battery, boiling off the electrolyte and killing it. Connecting it to one of the lighting circuits (the tail light circuit is probably tempting) will not likely provide actual battery voltage, but something lower due to the voltage drop induced by current flow through undersized wiring.
It needs to be switched, not constant power to avoid draining the battery while the bike is parked. If I had the schematics in front of me I could probably suggest something else, but I'm at work right now so I'm going to throw something a little more advanced at you...
You could (and this really is the ideal method, although a little more involved) install a relay that is triggered by the tail light circuit, but with the "switched" outputs connected directly to the battery. This will give the regulator the most accurate reading possible. It's not really a complex procedure, just a little time consuming.
The red and green wires do indeed get paired up. On FI bikes, these wires are also paralleled in the harness to increase the current carrying capability and avoid overheating the cabling.
There is an easier way, and at the end of the day you may want to consider this: check out Roadstercycle for the newer style regulators, either the MosFet or the series (preferred) style will work and neither, as far as I know, require a switched 12V input for proper operation.
 

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Hi Shewie, I checked the diagram, and the black/white wire is connected to the bat2 connection of the start-stop switch, so in the diagrams of the earlier and later types the wires seam exactly the same, excepted that my bike has no sensor.
 

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Maartenx
It's as Scott described, that it the sense wire and needs to be tied into a switched 12v circuit. They use the bank sensor becuse of it's close proximety to the battery. I also agree with Scott on the alternate R/R from Jack. I have been running one for 4 years in the AZ heat and not a bit of trouble.
 

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ok, but I have one on the shelf, I would try this one first before buying something new...
That's fine, just be sure that the 12V source is switched and its reading very close to battery voltage when the bike is running and everything is switched on.
 

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I'm going to to that tomorrow evening and of course I'll let you know the result. What still makes me wonder is why the producer maked this wire, if it is only for measuring the output voltage of the regulator you should think that they had made this connection inside the R/R to the red wires. When you look at the diagram it is like Shweie sayd a switched connection to the + voltage. Strange but I'll give it a try.
 

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I'm going to to that tomorrow evening and of course I'll let you know the result. What still makes me wonder is why the producer maked this wire, if it is only for measuring the output voltage of the regulator you should think that they had made this connection inside the R/R to the red wires. When you look at the diagram it is like Shweie sayd a switched connection to the + voltage. Strange but I'll give it a try.
It isn't measuring the output voltage of the regulator, it's measuring the battery voltage. It's an old design that the newer models don't use.
 

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Hi guys, just finished the make-over of my new type R/R in my old bike. Good and bad news; motor runs, charging voltage max 15V from 4krmpm till higher. So that works fine! I soldered the black/white wire from the R/R to the black/white wire which goes to the ignition unit. The bad thing is that my battery is lost. Has last almost 1 year. Ordered a new one so in the weekend the bird flies again! (if something unexpected happens I'll let you know)
 

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Hi guys, there seems plenty of collective knowledge in this thread, so here's my problem. My alternator burnt out back end of last year so I got it re-wound and replaced the Reg/Rec at the same time with one recommended by the company who did the re-wind. They also suggested the connect direct to the battery as seems to be common.
Very soon after the bike started to 'mis-fire' and stutter after about 10-15 mins of riding. Eventually the FI light would come on and the 'mis-fire' would stop! I didn't really ride it much over winter, and this put me off too but I didn't have much time or funds to look into it.
Last month i finally had a quick look and once the rear cowl came off i was greeted with burnt and melted connectors from the alternator to the Reg/Rec (pic attached). Wires at the bottom of the connector go to the Reg/Rec and they are goosed!
With some advice, i've checked the alternator with a multi meter (I'm a bit of a noob to electrickery) and it seems ok. Battery is also ok.
Is it likley that a new Reg/Rec could go that quickly or could there be a underlying problem???
 

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Yes it could go that quickly if it is a cheap knockoff, as almost every self proclaimed mosfet R/R on ebay/amazon is. Disconnect the 3 wire connector in pic, at 5000rpm you should get about 60V all three ways. It is always possible that the stator and/or the battery is at fault here, so double check they're both ok before spending any money. Here is one for sale in UK used and a little spendy but better than a knockoff. Genuine SHINDENGEN FH012AA REGULATOR RECTIFIER Reg-Rec MOSFET (FH020AA) RegRec | eBay
 
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