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I made an adapter plate out of 20 guage steel for mine. Pointed mine with the connectors down. The last drawing if I remember correctly you can use as a template.

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I made an adapter plate out of 20 guage steel for mine. Pointed mine with the connectors down. The last drawing if I remember correctly you can use as a template.

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Hey - that's pretty awesome Bees - I just don't have the gear for that, so I used the existing plate's bottom hole, turned the R/R as shown and drilled a hole through the plate where I needed the other hole to go. Lock nut on the backside of the plate to hold it tight.
 

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You can install the FH012AA or FH020AA mosfet r/r on to a 97 or 98 BB without any brackets.
It mounts to the standard holes in the subframe.
All you need to do it trim the top fin of the r/r so it misses the tail section.
 

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I have also a charging issue; at 4000rpm the voltage is about 18VDC, I doublechecked my meter, it's really that high. Broken regulator? the outside of the battery lookes nice, it's about 1 year of age. Can you see from the outside if the battery is still good (my old one was a bit bubbley)?
 

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I have also a charging issue; at 4000rpm the voltage is about 18VDC, I doublechecked my meter, it's really that high. Broken regulator? the outside of the battery lookes nice, it's about 1 year of age. Can you see from the outside if the battery is still good (my old one was a bit bubbley)?
Your regulator is finished if you're getting that high a voltage. I wouldn't even start the bike again until you get it replaced.
 

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Can you see from the outside if the battery is still good (my old one was a bit bubbley)?
simple answer, 'No'. There are couple of ways you would know it was dead without having it load tested
1. severe buckling of the plates has occurred (overcharging adds too much heat) which can distort the case
2. a very nasty smell when the battery is being charged - hydrogen evolution and excess lead sulphate formation

Have it load tested and as Shewie has said don't run the bike until the reg/rec is fixed there is a danger of loosing the battery and stator.
 

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Have it load tested and as Shewie has said don't run the bike until the reg/rec is fixed there is a danger of loosing the battery and stator.
Not to mention the rest of the electrical system. Lamps that are made for 12VDC do not tend to live long when fed 18. As I've said before, I'm pretty sure the ECM is protected by its own internal zener regulation circuit, so it can probably handle errant voltages, but nothing else on the bike is which means it all just takes it, and that stuff will burn up quickly.
 

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It was strange. I first noticed a problem with the regulator while my engine did not start anymore after riding. At that moment I measured the voltage etc. Till that time no problems whatsoever. I hope (and it seems so) that the only broken part is the regulator, and maybe the battery...
Thanks for helping!
 

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It was strange. I first noticed a problem with the regulator while my engine did not start anymore after riding. At that moment I measured the voltage etc. Till that time no problems whatsoever. I hope (and it seems so) that the only broken part is the regulator, and maybe the battery...
Thanks for helping!
Put a good 24 hr charge on it if you can then have it load tested. That will tell you if its bad. Static voltage isn't always a good indicator. Amperage loaded will be the deciding factor.
 

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Out a good 24 hr charge on it if you can then have it load tested. That will tell you if its bad. Static voltage isn't always ever a good indicator. Amperage loaded will be the deciding factor.
Never rely on a simple static voltage test. As Brian says, have it load tested, it's the only way to know for certain what condition the battery is in.
 

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Can I pickup a tester at a local auto parts place? A generic Volt/Ohm tester is what we're talking about here?
 

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Can I pickup a tester at a local auto parts place? A generic Volt/Ohm tester is what we're talking about here?
No, we are talking about a battery load tester. It's just a simple set of coils, a switch, a couple of short booster-type cables with clamps and a rudimentary volt meter. They're quite inexpensive and available at most places that sell auto parts.
When connected, the meter will display static voltage, then when the switch is turned on, the coils are engaged which places a fairly heavy load on the battery. The meter will then display the battery voltage while loaded. It shouldn't drop much below about 10.2VDC, and should hold that voltage while the switch is engaged. If it slowly (or worse, quickly) drops off, the battery should be replaced.
 

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Thanks :) I currently have a 2 week old battery so I'll assume that bit isn't my issue then
Oh dear. You know what happens when you assume things...
 

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It's rare but it also depends how long the new battery sat on the shelf before you bought it. But you can get a bad one right off the shelf. AutoZone, NAPA, Oriely, should all have a load tester thay can hook it up too for you
 

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Question: I received my second hand R/R today, but it appears to be one of the later types then my 1997 BB. There are more wires, but the schema says that the 2 red ones and the 2 green ones must come together. There is one wire left, to the bank angle sensor. What is this and can I leave the wire isolated or is this R/R not suitable for my old aged Blackbird??
 

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http://www.cbrxx.com/members/8999.htmlmaartenxx
Let me look at the service manuals in the resource section. My first thought would be that wire is the 12v sense line for the R/R but don't quote me on it. If that is the case then you should be able to use it. Hopefully someone will come along that has done a conversion like your in now and give a definite yes or no.
 

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Ok looking at the wiring diagrams I am thinking you can just tape off the connector so that it doesn't touch anything and you should be good to go. After you have it installed do a idle voltage check and rpm check and make sure your not charging over 15V at 5K. You want to see about 13.4/13.5 at idle.
 
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