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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guys. I replied to the "What have you done to your bird lately?" on 11-17-2019 where I stated I am starting work on my Bird after she has sat waiting patiently for 6 years.
The last line was "Watch this space, there may well be Pics, Questions or Appeals for required bits..." so here's the first update of current progress and snags.

I got it to the workshop and the full strip down went fairly smoothly before the Christmas break.
2020 Bird Proj 01.jpg 2020 Bird Proj 02.jpg 2020 Bird Proj 03.jpg

All panels have had any cracks or dinks repaired and have been repainted.
2020 Bird Proj 04.jpg 2020 Bird Proj 05.jpg 2020 Bird Proj 06.jpg 2020 Bird Proj 07.jpg

The Wheels were looking rough where they had started to corrode under the paint and was bubbling up, the removable engine cases were the same, so these and the Sub frames went away for stripping/blasting before Christmas and they came back today and are now in to be repainted with a full Bake.

My main task today was to extract the 4 exhaust stud bolts that just snapped at the Nut level. This did NOT go well. :thumbd:
2020 Bird Proj 08.jpg
The studs in ports 1 & 2 we tried heating with butane torch and removing with external Stud extractor. They just crumbled away lower down. Ports 3 & 4 were drilled with Counter clockwise drill bits and tried the easyout method...
The easyout lost and ended up blunted!

So unless someone has a clever Idea to try, next week I will have to go with the full (careful) drilling out route of what remains and hope I can complete these without damaging the thread walls.
Fingers crossed. :)
 

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Unfortunately those studs sum up my past experience when I built my Supercharged Bird. The studs on my 99 Bird are in bad condition and have needed changing for some years now and but I don't want to go near the job whilst they are holding well.

The 'good news' is that I successfully drilled 3 when I built the Supercharged Bird and the original threads cleaned up perfectly. Time consuming and nerve wracking but there is plenty of meat there and helicoils can be fitted if necessary.

Rest of the work looking good. :thumb:
 

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I took mine to a machine shop and had them drilled out. He thanked me for bringing it to him before I tried extracting them myself and not boogering them up.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Morning guys. Duck, as you say, “ Time consuming and nerve wracking”.... I naively Went in yesterday thinking “I’ll have these out in an hour! Simples”. Ended up leaving 5 hours later a bag of nerves. Lol.

XXGuy, I gave that option a lot of consideration last night but removing the head was not in the original to do list and I’d like to leave it in if possible. I even phoned a selection of hire centres to see if I could hire an induction coil heater. No go.

I’ll see if anyone has any other clever ideas but if not will tentatively try the pot 4 one first. If I feel it’s going to cause damage I will stop and the head will have to come out. ��
 

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I don't know if/how you have got the bike supported at present but you need the bike as high as possible and with no obstructions (like forks) in the way. If the drill is to be pressed into action it is sensible to make up a small jig to ensure you are drilling at 90 deg to the face as well. Then slowly drill with good quality drills, the last thing you want is to have a drill break off with the job half done.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, It's up on a Hydraulic Centre lift, Just Frame, Engine and Yokes still on.
I used good quality CCW bits yesterday (2mm then 4mm) and took my time. The next size is about 7mm, so just inside the thread limits. Have to be careful on that one.
(Nibbled Finger Nail's time)
 

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There may be another option. Have a bolt welded to the existing studs. I have seen instances where the heat from the welding process transfers into the parent material and shocks the offending parts apart so that they can be backed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There may be another option. Have a bolt welded to the existing studs. I have seen instances where the heat from the welding process transfers into the parent material and shocks the offending parts apart so that they can be backed out.
I had another go at those studs, cleaned things up etc, but couldn't get centered properly on the last 2 so stopped. A guy I know came and had a look and reckons he can do it using the Welding method you mention. He has done many like it before and was rubbing his hands relishing the opportunity to do them. So I have given him the green light to go for it. :)

When he's done that, I will paint the engine block. Everything else is painted and ready to be re-fitted.
The parts that were sent away for Blasting/Stripping & Painting came back Wednesday and I replaced all Wheel bearings with new ones (Post the Acid dipping).
Old Bearings.jpg
 

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My respects, Sparkie.

Looks like she'll be gleaming by the time you've finished.

I'm mid tinkering on all sort of projects (kinda similar time frame measured in years!) on my xx-v. If I've got anything spare you need you can but ask (if you're in Essex you ain't that far away and yours is looking like a carb bird too from your cans and left switch gear… is that a choke lever I can see?).

Confirm which Bird is yours, carb or FI? Analogue dash or digi? Cat cans or non-cat?

After I've finished my electric folding wing mirrors project I'll have various mirror assembly spares there for example. Poss got some spare oem exhaust can. Various screens, seats and handle bar spares. May have a spare dash or two once through with my dash upgrade project tinkerings.

Anyway, wishing you all success with your bolts!

Rgds Mallow1
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
My respects, Sparkie.

Looks like she'll be gleaming by the time you've finished.

I'm mid tinkering on all sort of projects (kinda similar time frame measured in years!) on my xx-v. If I've got anything spare you need you can but ask (if you're in Essex you ain't that far away and yours is looking like a carb bird too from your cans and left switch gear… is that a choke lever I can see?).

Confirm which Bird is yours, carb or FI? Analogue dash or digi? Cat cans or non-cat?

After I've finished my electric folding wing mirrors project I'll have various mirror assembly spares there for example. Poss got some spare oem exhaust can. Various screens, seats and handle bar spares. May have a spare dash or two once through with my dash upgrade project tinkerings.

Anyway, wishing you all success with your bolts!

Rgds Mallow1
Thanks Mallow, I'll keep that in mind. I think I have acquired all parts like the Mirror assembly's now, its a case of preparing parts before fitting them. (Today's exploits will be below momentarily.)

Yes she is an early Model. (With Choke lever)
From what I can gather, she was part of the earliest series (96) number 1481. Carburetors, Analogue, No Cat. I am fitting Delvekic cans on when done, these original cans are damaged ones from another bike I had, I quickly put on just to move the bike.

Regards Sparkie.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
WARNING!!! What you are about to see.... Isn't Pretty!!!!

So today was the day it was make or break on those studs.... The guy that came to do it with me had many years experience and stated at the end... "I've never known Studs like em!"

He was happy at how I had started and that I had STOPPED when I did.
We tried .......
- Welding Nuts onto visible stud route - Sheared off lower down.
- Welding Bolts on to short studs (no room for nut) - Sheared off lower down, inside the hole.

So it was now that the option to Drill and tap for Helicoils was the only option left.
Result.....
- 3 Cobalt Drills Blunted.
- New set of Drills purchased (one of those gets blunted also)
- 3 Holes completed (Eventually) and Helicoils inserted.
- 1 of those, the line of the new drilling is slightly off, so the hole in the collar is likely to need elongating.
- 1 Hole.... The Stud was so Hard, no matter how well centered you started, it redirected the drill bit sideways into the aluminium in a very short depth.

There were parts that drilled easily and others that just Glazed and blunted the drills. Fortunately we had no breakages.
The broken stud at Port 3 was the worst one, where the drills just could not get through it and were deflected off.
Honda have left quite a lot of meat in the aluminum, so we decided to abandon that stud and drill in fresh meat along side.
We have drilled and tapped a 6mm thread, so this one will be a straight through 6mm stud instead of the usual 6-8mm stepped one.
Again the Collar ring will need elongating to accommodate the new positioning, but in theory, these should all hold the pipes successfully. Not pretty, but thankfully not an easily seen area of the engine day to day.

IMG_0298cu.jpg
Port 3 - Abandoned Stud Drilling - Addition of 2nd hole 6mm.

IMG_0300cu.jpg
Port 4 - Pilot Drilled, fully drilled and Helicoiled half hour later. (Brand New Drill Blunted even at this stage.)

Moral of my Story?........
Don't take the exhaust Down Pipes OFF unless you have to!!!

Next Update will hopefully be more "Progress" and less "Snags". :)
 

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could be interested in the mirror bits.. .paul
Paul,

Happy to so long as you aren't in a hurry. I'm trying to create electrically folding mirrors so have built up spares to build a test rig from Fleabay spares. Once I'm done I'll put any bits I'm not needing up for grabs. Happy to PM you then.
 

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Sparkie,

You may be able to help me. I've sheared off an engine mounting bolt (traffic accident… crash shroom damage). You've got great recent experience re bolt extraction. Ive limited tools and zero workshop so not best placed re self help.
The chap you called in to help you, would you be willing to PM me his details and what he charges?

Help greatly appreciated.

Cheers Mallow1
 
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