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Wraith Rider
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I’m stumped. I have the air filter and box removed (and a new air filter ready to replace the filthy old one), but I’m at a total loss now. I’ve changed plugs on bikes and cars before, but looking into this engine feels like I’m looking at alien technology. I can’t even tell where the freaking plugs ARE, much less how to access/replace them. I feel like a complete idiot. Maybe it’s the brain injury I nearly died from a few years back.
can anyone give me some pointers here? Pictures, maybe? Anything?

thanks in advance.
 

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Reaver
The plugs are in the middle of the head. Pull the lower air box off and it'll become apparent at that point. Word insight here get a good hand impact driver
The air horn screws holding the stacks as well as the lower airbox are known to take set. The hand impact driver saves a lot if cussing and stripped screw heads.
 

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Wraith Rider
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Discussion Starter #3
Well, now, this is going to make me look the fool. I have the lower air box removed, and I’m still lost. I really want to do this myself, but it’s starting to look beyond my skill set...
Is there a picture somewhere that indicates the plug locations, or how to get to them/get them out?
 

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Hi Reaver,

Damn, I just did my plugs and fluids two weeks ago......I took a few pics but not specifically of plugs......

It's pretty straight forward...... they are hidden under a deflector cover. Follow the plug leads from the coils and then twist/prize the leads carefully off the plugs - they are long caps with a rubber cover like on a car......

Blow the cavities clear of any debris before unscrewing the old plugs with the Honda tool in the tool kit.... it works fine.


Sorry no pics...... but there is a manual available for down load from the resources section on this forum - I downloaded it recently...... maybe I can add a screen snap diagram......... back soon........

The manual describes doing the plug change without lifting the tank - I have done it this way, but usually do it via the airbox as you have done...... maybe the diagrams might help you locate the target..... it's literally right under your nose! It's just hidden under a weather cover that will squeeze out without removing the throttle cables, but you may want to lube them while you are there so that will make it easier if they are disconnected.
 

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Wraith Rider
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55 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. I had removed one of those caps previously, assuming that’s what it was, but it was so ridiculously long, i thought I was wrong. Guess I was actually right!
Does the kit plug remover fit the new NGK Iridiums I have? It seems too big. Rookie question, I know.
 

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Yes NGK Iridium are stock fitment...... though there is a replacement p/no for the original IRMH9.... or whatever they were, and you can also run ordinary $6 plugs (CREH9 from memory), but they won't last as long as an Iridium sparkler.

The tool kit socket has a rubber grabber inside so it will help lift the plugs out of the looong tubes....... Iridiums don't need to be gap checked as the fine electrode can be damaged.

It's :coffee: time, so take your time and do it right, once, as it's a lot of work to go back in if there is a problem once it's all back together again. Be careful to assemble the air box properly and remember to reconnect the two hoses again and attach the coils with some lock tight. It all fits back easily so don't force anything...... and those velocity stack tubes actually position the airbox lower plate onto the 'o' rings so they must be seated correctly.

(y)
 
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Wraith Rider
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Discussion Starter #7
I'm seriously losing it here. I have the air box off. I got the furthest to the left plug out, and the new one in it's place. No small feat, with the constant annoyance of the metal crossbar in the way...

Now that it is in, I can't get the stupid cap back on!!! What the actual fu(% is my problem here?!?
How do you get the stupid cap seated on the plug again?

Good lord. I know I'm an amateur, but this is bordering on gross incompetence.
 

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The caps can be a hard push on and you need to press down straight.
When you fitted the plug I presume you didn't fit the 'screw on knob' to the screw thread (most plugs don't come with them nowadays) you only need the screw thread for the lead to fit.
 

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Yes, you know you are winning when you heat the subtle crickkkkk as the cap ratchets onto the bare screw threads on the plug top. If the old style plug tops are still on then there's no way the plug tube will lock on.

Please be aware that when a new spark plug is wound down onto the cylinder head, you should not over tighten it. I gently tighten then undo and retighten so I can feel the washers on the plug compress and give a firm feel when fully tight....... if you overdo the process you risk stripping the thread in the cylinder head and that means engine out......... :eek:.

It will feel better as you do the squash-loosen-squash again-loosen-squash and nip 1/8th action....... Also, keep in mind how the coils and leads sit...... they have a path to follow and must be connected up 1-2-3-4 as labelled or you will curse yourself when it won't fire up when done.

I should say my cousin the mechanic is a silverback gorilla and he leans on plugs pretty heavily, but he still makes sure he doesn't strip any threads.

I don't recall having too much difficulty with the frame tube, but I have a selection of tools to fit the job.... maybe that's all it takes.... anyway good on you for having a go...... it'll be easier next time!
 

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Reaver
The plugs are in the middle of the head. Pull the lower air box off and it'll become apparent at that point. Word insight here get a good hand impact driver
The air horn screws holding the stacks as well as the lower airbox are known to take set. The hand impact driver saves a lot if cussing and stripped screw heads.
Yes those air horn screws can be a bugger to get out without stripping the screw heads. I stripped mine out pretty bad, so I went to my local hard ware store and purchased six small" thread rod coupling nuts" and I welding them to the top of the original screws. Now I use ratchet and a socket to remove those screws. No more philips head screws to mess with.
 

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Essential to use a long shaft cross tip (philips head) screw driver....... the foot long shaft applies a torque to the screw head and they come out easy compared to a regular short shaft screw driver (like the one in the tool kit).

(y)
 

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Get you one of these it won't be the only time you'll use it. Works great for the volts in the bottom of the front fork legs that hold the cartridges in.

130433
 
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Just a reminder that the cross head screws in the Bird are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) and normal 'phillips' screwdrivers will chew the heads.

FWIW I have a set of JIS bits (and screwdriver) that I use regularly, the JIS bits fit my impact driver perfectly when I need to get 'brutal'. My set of bits only cost a couple of $ but were a very valuable investment.
 
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