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I’ll be using POR-15 to paint mine. Did my old CB1000F stands with it and it’s lasted ok.
Just realize that the only weakness POR-15 has is that Sunlight damages or deteriorates it. When painting over it either paint while it is slightly tacky or dive it a light sanding so your normal paint can get a bite so it doesn't flake off.

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Just realize that the only weakness POR-15 has is that Sunlight damages or deteriorates it. When painting over it either paint while it is slightly tacky or dive it a light sanding so your normal paint can get a bite so it doesn't flake off.

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There’s a final UV resistant coating you need to use. I suppose the disadvantage with it is the number of treatments and coats of paint you have to apply which makes it a bit time consuming and expensive.
 

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There’s a final UV resistant coating you need to use. I suppose the disadvantage with it is the number of treatments and coats of paint you have to apply which makes it a bit time consuming and expensive.
I think the stuff is awesome. Didn't know that they came out with a separate UV final coating. Nothing like it.

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks for the ideas. Next question please, I'm going to touch up the sub- frame with black paint. What's the best way to deal with the rust on it? I'm not removing the sub-frame so please keep that in mind. I just want to remove the visible corrosion, especially where the seat has been rubbing. I was thinking I would treat the rust with something, then sand, prime and paint. Any thoughts?
 

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I'd look for a rust conversion product. Some of them will even etch as well saving you the need to sand. But mind you you'll have to cover everything up that you don't want overspray on. A lot of times it is easier to pull it.
 

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Look into POR-15.

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Discussion Starter #28
Can you paint over rust converter products Bees?
I'll look at the POR-15 XX.
Thanks men
 

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Yep, that's their purpose Nato. Check out the info like on POR15s website, but any rust convertor from bunnings can do, pop in and read the can.
 

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Nato as pbz stated yes they. Many are designed for that very purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Okay, I'll do some research. But thanks, I thought I'd check in with you guys first. Seems pretty straight forward. I just vaguely remember someone warning me about rust converter once. Something about only using it if the metal is uniformly rusted and not to use when it is patchy. Is there a difference between rust converter and products like Kill Rust?
 

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Then there is the old Vinegar bath.

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Sounds like poor prep to me.

Get some clean chemical resistant gloves and a respirator, and safety glasses. Degrease it with acetone. Prep the surface with a red 3M Scotchbrite pad or blast it with aluminum oxide. Blow the part off to be dust free, hang it up so you can get to all areas and work from the most difficult areas and out to the easy areas. Use your favorite rattle can paint and follow the instructions. Get multiple coats on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Sounds like poor prep to me.

Get some clean chemical resistant gloves and a respirator, and safety glasses. Degrease it with acetone. Prep the surface with a red 3M Scotchbrite pad or blast it with aluminum oxide. Blow the part off to be dust free, hang it up so you can get to all areas and work from the most difficult areas and out to the easy areas. Use your favorite rattle can paint and follow the instructions. Get multiple coats on it.
That'll work!
So, you're just saying clean it, scratch all the rust off, blow away debris and then paint it, right?
I ask as you dont mention using any rust removal or converter products in your post
Cheers,
Nato.
 
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