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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. Paint questions please.
I just removed my centre stand a had it repainted. It needed freshning-up.
When the painter was finished with it, I put it back on the bike and notice a tiny bit of the paint had already come/flaked off.
Just wondering if the guys paint is no good or if it hadn't dried/cured properly. I sanded it with 400 grit and went right back to metal before I gave it to him. Also it was a very wet week here in Tasmania and the stand was put back on 24 hours after it was painted. I was thinking of getting this guy to paint other bits of the bike but starting to think he might not have the right paint or competence. He is good with cars.
So, any advice or comments welcome about engine and frame paint jobs. I'm interested to know what others have done on motor parts like clutch and generator covers where paint comes off. My sub frame needs touch ups and rust removal too.
 

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Cheers.
One of the guys at Honda said the oposite Adeyren.
He said forget powder coating as it chips-off. Better off painting it, he said. I got the impression from that conversation that it just isn't very durable. Am I mistaken? Please keep in mind the stand gets smashed by rocks. Have you powder coated your stand?
 

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Nato, mines been done 3? yrs. Still looks good. Stone chips? Under there? Very few I would think. Duck will explain better than me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, cool. My stand was ptetty pock marked so figured is must get small stones flicked at it.
 

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He said forget powder coating as it chips-off. Better off painting it, he said. I got the impression from that conversation that it just isn't very durable.
Yes and no! Powder done properly is more durable than paint .... but if it does get a chip you cannot just spray a bit more powder on, you have to strip back to bare metal.

I was recently asked to powder some KTN crash bars (the owner had bought them black and decided he wanted them orange). I said I would do the job if the original finish was paint ....yes ......... no they were powdered!

Even the most aggressive aluminium oxide blasting media I use wouldn't touch the powder. I have some very 'nasty' stripper that softened the powder so I had to use that and then a scalpel blade to trim off the existing powder .... then blast. Took me over a day!
With powder (and paint) the key is preparation. Get it wrong and problems will follow.
Crash bars turned out nice though (they are the same colour, just the lighting in my shed!).
130301
 

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Nato
When you looked at the back of the chip was it the same color. Could be he didn't prime it. Top coats don't have the same adhesion properties as primer. Also if you have a very high humidity it can also raise caine with paint adhesion. As stated and judging by your comments painting might be the better route. Because as duck has stated it's easier to retouch.
 

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I used the car underbody rough finish black paint on my triangular fairing bit behind the front wheel. No chips now. I reckon that would be good and practical for the sidestand.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nato
When you looked at the back of the chip was it the same color. Could be he didn't prime it. Top coats don't have the same adhesion properties as primer. Also if you have a very high humidity it can also raise caine with paint adhesion. As stated and judging by your comments painting might be the better route. Because as duck has stated it's easier to retouch.
He better have primmed it! But good point Bees. The paint chip has exposed the bare metal underneath. The metal I had exposed when sanding, so either he didn't prime it or the primer and paint came off together. I reckon the shitty wet weather didnt allow the paint and primer to harder properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I used the car underbody rough finish black paint on my triangular fairing bit behind the front wheel. No chips now. I reckon that would be good and practical for the sidestand.
Good idea. That is very smart. The paint this guy uses looks very nive and smooth but might not be up to the job of metal bits on bikes. Might not be durable enough. I'll have a talk to him. Anybody know what black paint Honda use of their BBs?
 

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Check the back side of the chip if you have it or chip off another section and checkit for primer. The fact that it popped off tells me he didn't wash off all the oils your hand sanding did or he used a contaminated wash down liquid that introduced oils. I just finished painting a ZX11. I used simple green straight undiluted after using a metal etch for the bare metal parts and also before I applied the primer to the plastics. Also if he didn't sand it again before he painted it the paint will do what you describe. Anytime you sand a part you have a maximum of 24 hours to paint it. If you wait longer the pores in the metal, Plastic, primer or base coat will close up and it'll chip and lift a whole lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ah huh. I sanded it and gave it to him three days later. Thanks Bees.
 

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some paints require a primer to bond onto
hammerite will generally bond with no primer and its tough as nails
powder coat is very good but when perforated it lets in water that creeps under the plastic and rots it faster then ever
for stell that is exposted to harsh environrments i use black metalization or silver, it lasts nearly forever
 

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I made up a small mud flap that extends below the swing arm. It's cable tied onto the swing arm and stiff enough to stay clear of the tyre at speed. It prevents crud being flung onto the shockie linkage bearings and swing arm cross member.

It's not visible under the hugger and has worked it's magic for 15yrs.

(y)
 
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My rear hugger is a two piece one. Top is as normal, another piece goes below the swingarm and protects the shock linkage and stand.

 

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What follows is just my opinion and please... I do understand that.

Honda doesn't powder coat it.
You sanded it down to metal... you did all the hard work. Why not do the rest yourself. Hang it by a wire and wipe it down with quality alcohol bought from a body shop supplier (not whiskey) then wipe it with a tack rag. Then spray it with a rattle can primer for metal. Do that 2 or 3 times. Sand smooth with very fine grit sand paper. 800. See how it looks and maybe spray again if needed with another color of primer. Lightly spray and sand. This will tell you where your low spots are but on a centerstand I wouldn't bother. Get a quality sourced rattle can of black Satin finish and spray lightly at first... far enough away so the paint is tacky and then move closer for your next coat and spray so paint looks wet but don't do a heavy layer or it will sag or run. Don't try to paint it all in one coat, try 3 or more lighter coats if not real experienced. Use a Satin finish paint. So flaws don't show as easy.
It will last for years. Need to touch up? Sand a little and spray while it is deployed and holding the bike up.
Most important is to be smooth and steady by keeping the can the same distance away while spraying and always spray past the end of the object. Don't stop at the end. Go a fraction past. Start a fraction before the object too. Don't rush between coats as you can cause sags or runs if impatient.
Another tip is... when done with the can. Wipe off the nozzle then turn upside down and spray until no pain comes out. This clears the tube and you won't plug up the tip.

You'll be surprised how good you can do with a rattle can these days.

Cheers,
Guy

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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Another good rattle can paint is Krylon Fusion. It's self etching paint and primer formula. Key is as I mentioned once it's sanded you have 24 hours max or you'll have to sand it again.
 
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I’ll be using POR-15 to paint mine. Did my old CB1000F stands with it and it’s lasted ok.
 
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