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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys
Things been going good for a while, plugging into optimeser at night no probs
till this morning bike started but seemed slower in turning over got to work and back
put meter on it 12.8v at tick over but 16.5volts at 4 - 5k
i have already replaced stator , battery and latest RR from Jaws for the digi dash
now not sure if the readings im getting are now excessive
From one end of the spectrum to the other LOL
any advice would be appreciated
 

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Spikey
Yes it should never exceed 15 volts. Could you pop a pic of the R/R. That's what controls Stator output and suspect it's the problem.

Also your going to need to park it till you get that voltage down. You stand a good chance of exploding the battery or frying control circuits in the ecm or the sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will take your advice
Biked Parked up post some pics when i get back from work
thanks again
 

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Ok so both are stock spec units. Suspect that the RR is your culprit. If you go here. About 1/2 way down there's a set of red lettered links for troubleshooting. Click on the RR section and it will take you through a testing procedure to verify the bridge diodes are still good.

Also take note the black wire coming out of that set is NOT a ground it's actually the sense line that controls the RR's output. Make sure that wire is still connected in the harness or the regulator will act as you described
 

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Ok so both are stock spec units. Suspect that the RR is your culprit. If you go here. About 1/2 way down there's a set of red lettered links for troubleshooting. Click on the RR section and it will take you through a testing procedure to verify the bridge diodes are still good.

Also take note the black wire coming out of that set is NOT a ground it's actually the sense line that controls the RR's output. Make sure that wire is still connected in the harness or the regulator will act as you described
Here where. No red letter or links!

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys
i know the black wire is a signal wire and if corroded or broken will cause this
i will swap the RR over to the spare and see how it goes
I see some people are now opting for the H020AA would this be a good move
again guys thanksyou
 

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Yes Spikey
Hands down one of the best charging system upgrades you can do. It is more efficient at charging and helps unload the stator as well improving the life span. The only other upgrade I would highly recommend would be a voltmeter tied to the top of the battery that is triggered with the ignition. It will allow you to keep a eye on the charging system and reduce the chance of getting stranded.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Beestoys
I have put the spare RR back on the bike
its showing no more than 13.3v max
12.8 at idle would this be enough
i did have a voltmeter attached to the dash but it proved not to be accurate
i would like to get something with amps included
want to get heated grip but until i sort out the charge i dont want to drain it any further
thanks for your help
 

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Yes Spikey
Hands down one of the best charging system upgrades you can do. It is more efficient at charging and helps unload the stator as well improving the life span. The only other upgrade I would highly recommend would be a voltmeter tied to the top of the battery that is triggered with the ignition. It will allow you to keep a eye on the charging system and reduce the chance of getting stranded.
So the best way to do that would be to put in a relay triggered from a keyed source correct?

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13.3v is too low ... should be getting into the 14v range above 2500 rpm

Sounds like you might have 2 bad RRs, one over-delivering and the other under-delivering.
 

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So the best way to do that would be to put in a relay triggered from a keyed source correct?

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XX
Best way to go would be to look for a meter with 3 wire hookup. The 3 is a trigger wire that you tie to a power source that is switched. I'm still trying to find the meters I bought. I actually purchased 3 of them. 1 for my bike and the other 2 for my son's BB's. Just got to locate the buggers.
 

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Spikey
I'd have to agree with leigh. Were you able to go through the test chart in the electrosport page I sent you. It has a cold check you can do with a meter to let you know if your R/R is shot. 13.3 is not enough to run heated gear. It's definitely better than 16 v and you could use that one to get around until you replace it. I'd highly recommend changing over to the newer MOSFET design if you do have to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Beestoys
carried out test as per your sheet
it looks like both the RR and stator are not good
battery is also marginal so i think the best outcome here would to replace all three
 

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Spikey
Unfortunately that is one of the results of a weak battery. The system trys to charge and run the bike. Which puts a heavier load on the stator and R/R. Killing both.
Do you have a meter on it yet so you can monitor the system. It's not full proof but it can help.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi Beestoys
I have ordered new RR from Roadstercycles, its on its way
a company in England called West Country windings are going to rewind the stator
so i need to source a new battery any sugestions
I have a small volt meter i can use it as a rough guide
thanks for your help
 

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The battery choice depends on your pocket book. The AGM's are all a good bet. Your looking at about 4 to 5 years of life on average. You can go with the newer lithium designs but he carefully about manufacturers. There's a few stories about them going into meltdown. I'm running a shoria in mine and its served me very well for then last years. But it's not cheap, light yes but cheap no. If you go with the newer tech battery make sure you have the right charger for it. Goes a long way to keeping it happy longer. But that's the case with most any battery. Also to help keep it active longer give it a good 12 hours of charge before you install it 24 preferred. It makes a big difference in longevity. Even if they say its pre charged and ready to go
 

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Hi Beestoys
I have ordered new RR from Roadstercycles, its on its way
a company in England called West Country windings are going to rewind the stator
so i need to source a new battery any sugestions
I have a small volt meter i can use it as a rough guide
thanks for your help
I went to a lithium. You have to go to a lithium iron phosphate battery to prevent fire problems.
I always go to battery-stuff.com now. I really like their scorpion batteries. AGM or lithium. Easy shopping too. Go to motorcycle battery then choose your bike and it flips up the batteries that will fit your bike.
Fast mailing service and good prices too.

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