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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been chasing an engine/drive chain like noise for a while. Noise occurs under load only.
It appeared after a minor self-service - oil and coolant change
I changed sprockets and chain - noise still there
Changed oil 10w-40 twice - noise still there
Several suggestions including exhaust leak, clutch rattle or CCT - CCT was next change. Oh, and the mechanic could not replicate it.
Anywho I went with 20w-50 fully synth Penrite - it does not get cold here at all.
Result; a nice rumble from the Yoshi slip ons and no noise - well maybe a slightly imagined whisper of it. :clap:
Any suggestions what it was/is then? :huh:

UPDATE
So I'm still happy with 20w 50 the engine feels tighter and more responsive but this could also be from injector cleaner I just added.
When the oil is cold on first starting - the clutch grabs causing me the engine to cut out - just like a learner rider
Should I be concerned about this - it is fine after a short warm up. ?

The "slightly imagined whisper" of the old noise is now a rattle after shifting into second - CCT maybe or my over active imagination?
 

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Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

I'm in SE QLD and I've always run 15w50 Comp 4 Silkolene. 20/50 in the old FJ1200. I want something that handles the higher ambient and operating temps with a wider safety margin. I don't want my oils operating at the top end of their operating specs. my thoughts are that the 'thicker' oil will handle the loads and 'clanging' bits a bit better. IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

I'm in SE QLD and I've always run 15w50 Comp 4 Silkolene. 20/50 in the old FJ1200. I want something that handles the higher ambient and operating temps with a wider safety margin. I don't want my oils operating at the top end of their operating specs. my thoughts are that the 'thicker' oil will handle the loads and 'clanging' bits a bit better. IMHO
Yep, that is what local mechanic basically said - Don't need 10w as we run into high 30+C days - so far I'm happy with this.
 

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Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

I use ordinary engine oil, Car Oil, 10-40, Good quality oil tho,
I change my oil every 5 or 6 thousand Kays when the engine starts to rattle,
Oil change, the noise is gone,

Inbuilt oil change indicator, I like it,

Both my Birds still had the original CCT in them, one, 06, 75,000 Kays, one, 05, 86,000 kays, My current one,
Both motors were completely stock,
I dont commute on it, Its purely a fun machine,

Most of my riding is in second gear between 4 and 8 thousand revs, I actually looked at the Tacho one day,
Mountain Twistys, So my motor is working reasonably hard most of the time,
 
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Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

I use ordinary engine oil, Car Oil, 10-40, Good quality oil tho
careful Brian, it won't be long and y'all will follow what happened here and there will be friction modifiers in the oil and they won't tell you it's not wet clutch safe because it's not bike oil. It's great for cars but smokes wet clutches pretty quickly.
 

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Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

careful Brian, it won't be long and y'all will follow what happened here and there will be friction modifiers in the oil and they won't tell you it's not wet clutch safe because it's not bike oil. It's great for cars but smokes wet clutches pretty quickly.
Because I use oil in a lot of different machinery here, I actually read up thoroughly on whats in the various oils that I do use,
I have never had any trouble with any of my machinery due to oils that I use,

So, 164,000 kays in two Blackbirds, Trouble free, Still with all the original parts in them, Including clutches, OH, God, Im using the wrong oil, hahahahaha

Most of my oils that I use are also for Hydraulic use as well, Multi grade,
It all comes out of the same 20 litre drum, which I buy four off at a time, Online and get it delivered,
Cars, Trucks, Tractors, Coach, Bikes, Welders, All use the same oil, in all of them, Diesel and Petrol motors,
I have many thousands of dollars in machinery here and I dont use crap oil, even if it is called, Car Engine Oil,

Its also written in the specs whether it has friction modifers or not, Or any other thing that shouldnt be in there for these particular motors,
The specs are very thorough in their information,
I also do all my own mechanical work, Including building and repairing motors,
I blow a twenty thousand dollar motor because their specs are wrong, They will replace my motor at their cost,
Just as a FWIW, I am a fully Qualified Practising Mechanical Engineer. With fifty years of practical experience,

I dont care what other people use in their motors, I was only stating what I use,

All my motors are reliable, and have been for many many years,
My motors earned my income, You dont get paid if you have a dud motor and cant work,

Cheers, Brian,
 

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Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

calm down Brian, I never questioned your capability (or oil choice). Just pointing out that oil companies will change the formula and not put it on the bottle. I got "bit" by a company (no names will be used to hopefully prevent a oil, fastest color thread) that I had used for a couple of decades. Did an oil change on my VF750S and within 50 miles the clutch was gone. I'd used "that" oil in the bike since I got it without an issue. Nothing in the literature, nothing on the bottle indicated a formula change. I had to get the MSDS sheet to find that there had been a change to it.

They also quietly removed or reduced phosphorus and zinc under federal mandate because it messed with catalytic converters. It wiped out countless flat tappet cams in everything from grandmas car to all out hotrods. One of the big cam manufactures had a ton of warranty claims and couldn't figure out what was going on till they started gathering oil samples and had them tested.

Maybe they are more honest and straight forward over there but over here they change things and never mention it. That's all I was pointing out.
 

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Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

calm down Brian, I never questioned your capability (or oil choice). Just pointing out that oil companies will change the formula and not put it on the bottle. I got "bit" by a company (no names will be used to hopefully prevent a oil, fastest color thread) that I had used for a couple of decades. Did an oil change on my VF750S and within 50 miles the clutch was gone. I'd used "that" oil in the bike since I got it without an issue. Nothing in the literature, nothing on the bottle indicated a formula change. I had to get the MSDS sheet to find that there had been a change to it.

They also quietly removed or reduced phosphorus and zinc under federal mandate because it messed with catalytic converters. It wiped out countless flat tappet cams in everything from grandmas car to all out hotrods. One of the big cam manufactures had a ton of warranty claims and couldn't figure out what was going on till they started gathering oil samples and had them tested.

Maybe they are more honest and straight forward over there but over here they change things and never mention it. That's all I was pointing out.
No probs Mate, I wasnt taking it personal,

Same companys make the oil here too, But they may vary a bit due to the different ADR's in each country,

They do change it from time to time, You have to be on the ball with it, Thats why you need the full spec sheets every time you buy oil,
Its not on the bottle or the tin, and its not on the spec sheets you get in the stores, You have to get it from the companys themselves.
Which they must supply by law, here and there, The full specs on their products,

But you do have to look for it, To most people its all goobody ****,
Like you say, Some of these oils, even tho they sound great, They will blow engines, I cant afford a blown engine in anything I own,
So I delve into it deeply every time I buy oil or any thing else i buy,
Some updated oils I no longer buy as they have become unsuitable for my engines, This or that has been added or removed,

I also buy it in bulk, So I dont have any problems with mixed oils, I never mix any oils either, Its also easier to track what you have if any thing does go wrong,
Its like ethanol, I wont put that in any thing I own either,
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

Deadman can you name what you use
Comrad the only alcohol near my bike would be a few six packs in the side saddles
 

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Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

My recipe since I've been breathing...good quality 20w50 mineral bike oil with fresh filter dump at 5000km. Synthetic is overkill, i never over rev and ride with my brain....Injected birds need all the cooling you can dish out, so 20w50 for me.
 

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Re: OIL change (20w-50) seems to have solved msytery noise

Car oil? Me to, 10/40 20/50 (120* here in summer) valvo racing...last motor has a bent rod from fuel in a cylinder..like that
we i got it..and drove it 10k....scored a used motor.. f.i..mines carbs so i swapped top ends (dont tell nobody, i re-used the head gasket..lol) No oil in motor when i got it so 4 qt ans a used filter......damndest thing...new motor runs 10% better, never touched the carbs....first bike i ever rode..pull the clutch, shift into 1st...no bang, grab jerk...no nuthin...if i couldt tell that it went into gear
by how far the shifter moves, id think it didnt shift.......guys with noisy exhaust chasing noises....something i figured out from working on v-drive boats....lick and stick ear plugs..lick them good and stick them deep..give them a minute to seal...motor in m y boat Huge diameter headers..motor out in the open...700 lift roller cam .030 lash...drive line racket, v-drive gear lash....with those plugs i can hear valve train lash..even ones that were a little to loose...had them in when i craped a rod bearing...running 6k up river i hear a groaning...i got no idea...mile or 2 later..gee, is it getting worse..another mile, shut it down groan went away, had a knock from hell though
 

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108km all thats been in it except 2-3 times from what I see is 5w40 T6 Rotella, was in my 84 GS1150, 88 Katana 1100 and GSXR 750 as well as my Bird and will be testing it in my new 08 ZX1400. its cheap too and car oil
 

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Rotella for me too.
I wouldn't necessarily call it car oil , only not suitable for wet clutches (car oils that is).
 

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Hi, in the CBR1100XX's Brazilian manual, Honda recommends using only 20w50, and that's what I use in mine.
I'm sure it has to do with climate.

View attachment 103505
View attachment 103513
Link for the Manual:
https://www.honda.com.br/sites/default/files/2016-08/CBR 1100XX 2003.pdf


Thanks for sharing Cab0c10. So many people aren't aware of how ambient/operating temps determine, in part, the viscosity required. The manual should have a chart to show ambient temp and viscosity to be used. The default 10/40 can be misleading. Not of concern tho but i like the safer margin when using a 15/50 or 20/50.
 

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I can tell you my bike clocked almost 90.000 km / 56.000 miles and still runs smooth as silk.
It would be much more convenient if they gave us a chart, but I don't think they trust us enough to let us decide about something like this.
 

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The API, SF is the one you worry about,
20 - 50 is for the ambient temp where you live,
I run 10 - 40 also because of the varied ambient Temps here in south Oz,
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The 20w-50 oil most available for bikes states it' for V twins (Harleys etc) and Ok fo wet clutches - So I presume that is ok in the bird???
 
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